Pembikin Wangian: Pierre-Constantin Gueros

Laman Produk: http://www.kristiansand-newyork.com/

Pro: Yang manis, aroma herba yang benar-benar berdiri selain daripada kumpulan semasa tawaran lelaki di pasaran; ramai telah mencadangkan bahawa ia adalah mengingatkan sedih dihentikan By Man dari Dolce dan Gabbana; makes wonderful use of cinnamon and amber notes without ever feeling heavy or food-like.

Cons: Mungkin ada yang merasakan ia terumbang-ambing sedikit terlalu dekat dengan aroma bedak bayi (manakala yang lain mungkin mendapati bahawa sebahagian daripada daya tarikan Kristiansand ini); jangan biarkan yang senarai nota di bawah menipu kamu – there’s barely a hint of fruit to be found.

Mengingatkan saya kepada: Deauville untuk Lelaki oleh Michel Germain; D&G By Man; Armand Basi Homme.

Nota: “Green Mandarine, Lada hitam, Buah Pala, Plum, Rajah, Lavender Perak, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Vetiver, Cinnamon, Kacang Tonka, Oakmoss, Memanaskan kasturi.” BeautyCafe.com

Penerangan pereka: “Kristiansand New York baru-baru ini dinamakan oleh CEW [Anugerah Pilihan Insder kecantikan] bagi kategori Bau Lelaki Terbaik. Kristiansand New York telah diilhamkan apabila dua Norway, Britt Hovde Ross dan Elisabeth Steen bertemu buat kali pertama di New York City. Semangat mereka dan memandu membawa mereka bersama-sama untuk mewujudkan satu jenama wangian yang unik. Elisabeth dan Britt amat berbangga dengan negara asal mereka dan masih mempunyai hubungan yang kuat ke Norway. Mereka memberi penghormatan kepada tanah air mereka dengan menamakan barisan produk mereka, Kristiansand, selepas salah satu daripada bandar-bandar yang paling indah Norway pantai dan kampung halaman Britt ini. Intipati bau Kristiansand yang merangkumi aroma menarik dan erotik bersalut dalam botol yang jelas abadi dan elegan seperti gaya Norway dan reka bentuk. Aroma sayur-sayuran segar, mandarin dan rempah eksotik pertama menarik deria anda sebagai anda pada mulanya menyedut Cologne ini lelaki panas baru. Jauh ke dalam aroma yang anda notis aroma lavender bijaksana dan clary putih berselang kalangan creaminess yang, kehangatan dan keghairahan hutan berasap dan kuning keemasan.” BeautyCafe.com

Bilangan kali diuji: 5 times.

Bilangan semburan yang digunakan untuk kajian ini: 2 sprays to the back of my hand.

Kekuatan Fragrance: Cologne / Eau de Parfum: Harry Sheff di Fragrantmoments.net blog perfume menulis, “Jurnalis Kristiansand ini memberitahu saya bahawa ia adalah 15% kepekatan, menjadikan ia lebih dekat kepada eau de Parfum (biasanya 15-20% kepekatan minyak).”

Pembangunan: (Linear / Purata / Kompleks) Kristiansand agak linear, tidak benar-benar menawarkan apa-apa aspek kejutan dari awal hingga akhir. Saya harus mengakui persamaan dengan serbuk talkum wangi seperti Johnson & Bedak Bayi Johnson, terutamanya pada waktu pertama aroma ini, tidak menyerang saya sebagai nostalgia. Walau bagaimanapun, this association soon dissipated as the aroma relaxed.

Umur Panjang: (Pendek / Purata / Tahan lama) Terima kasih kepada mereka syurga basenotes jangka hayat yang agak mengejutkan; Saya boleh bau ini pada kulit saya, walaupun dengan hidung saya ditekan untuk lengan saya, yang baik 6-8 hours after initial application.

Bangun: (A Little / Purata / Banyak) Quiets cepat untuk meninggalkan kasturi kulit aroma panas yang berlarutan lembut. Safe for work or cramped quarters.

Di mana saya boleh membeli? BeautyCafe.com $65 Amerika Syarikat dan $95 Amerika Syarikat untuk 1.7 oz atau 3.4 oz EDC semburan, respectively.

Pembungkusan: Minimalist, botol kaca segi empat tepat dan topi, mencerminkan kesederhanaan estetika reka bentuk Scandinavia; ditempatkan di dalam yang mudah, hitam dan putih, paper box printed with an image that looks like a wisp of smoke.

Apa yang diperkatakan: Fragrantica.com; Basenotes.net; Fragrantmoments.net

Dasarnya: Dengan beberapa nota kegemaran saya termasuk lavender, kayu manis dan kasturi, Kristiansand untuk Lelaki terus tema “serbuk herba” yang saya mula-mula jatuh cinta dengan di Deauville Michel Germain untuk Lelaki dan wangian lelaki kedua itu eponim Armand Basi dari 2000. Tetapi yang lebih khusus, Boleh saya katakan Kristiansand yang mempunyai lavender yang manis dan Tonka berpasangan yang berdenyut di tengah-tengah wangian seperti Gaultier Le Male dan Versace Dreamer. Perbezaan di sini adalah bahawa Kristiansand mudah boleh menjadi versi kemenyan sama ada daripada aroma. Malah saya teringat kayu manis kemenyan Auroshikha dengan ia manis, berkayu, smokey tendrils.

Pengulas daripada Kristiansand telah mengambil perhatian persamaan kepada yang amat tersayang walaupun singkat D&G By Man, dengan kedua-dua komposisi berkongsi pala, lavender, lada hitam dan kuning. Depsite telah dimiliki dan dipakai By pada awal tahun 2000′s, Saya tidak ingat ia cukup baik (atau tidak suka cukup baik) telah diiktiraf persamaan. Beberapa orang telah mencadangkan bahawa Kristiansand akan sesuai sebagai sejenis By “cahaya”.

Setelah tinggal di Scandinavia daripada 2010-2012, Saya tidak boleh mengatakan bahawa Kristiansand terutamanya mengingatkan saya tentang landskap atau budaya yang. Saya mungkin telah dijangka komposisi woodier menonjolkan birch dan cedar; wain atau likuoris nota mulled; atau hijau, selaras berumput. Tetapi saya tidak mengadu, Saya gembira akan menilai Kristiansand sebagai baru saya, kegemaran kayu manis wangi yang betul di samping Serge Loutens’ Rousse. Manakala Rousse adalah agak mudah, pala kayu manis, Kristiansand akan saya serbuk herba cinnamon.

Tinggalkan komen di bawah dan beritahu kami apa yang anda tentang komplot Kristiansand untuk peluang anda untuk memenangi botol 15ml, Dihantar di mana-mana di dunia, PERCUMA!

Nota: Giveaway berakhir 5 hari selepas tarikh permulaan penerbitan kajian. Terima kasih kepada BeautyCafe.com dan Kristiansand untuk berkongsi!

THE PROLOGUE

A few times now I’ve tried my hand and nose at making my own scented concoctions…tiada, I wouldn’t deign to suggest that they were perfumes. Sebagai contoh, I can remember around the age of 9 atau 10 mischievously using one of my grandmother’s insulin syringes to extract and mix together sample vials of various fragrances; I discovered that this process rarely led to any kind of fragrant success but did lead me to a huge grounding from angry parents. And no, Grandma didn’t re-use the syringe after my decanting experiment.

During my middle school years I had a piano teacher who was also an aromatherapist. Upon learning about my obsession with fragrance, she lovingly shared her entire collection of all-natural perfume oils with me. “Just place a few drops in a boiling pot of water and the kitchen will be filled with aroma,” beliau menjelaskan. Two or three weeks later, I learned that these essential oils were a bit easier to blend than completed department store fragrances but that they also offered a completely different aesthetic. After a few of the family’s cooking pots started to mysteriously make the spaghetti taste like patchouli and vetiver, my mother instructed me to politely return the oils to my teacher.

At age 16 I tried again as a dedication to a close friend who loved perfume as much as I did. That one contained a lot of Ralph Lauren Safari for women and who knows what else. Only slightly more successful than my first attempts, albeit equally awful, I learned that perfumes are complex creations that don’t necessarily just “come together” after a few drops of this and a little bit of that. Around this time I started working at a Wicks-n-Sticks in the local mall and discovered the magic of incense, candles, home fragrances, dll. My need to blend was superceded by my infatuation with lightbulb rings and scented wax chips.

A few years ago, after receiving a beautiful perfumery kit from PerfumeLab.com, I renewed my interest in self-blending and seriously created my own perfume. Menariknya, I recreated Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue without even knowing it! Bergamot, bunga limau, iris, sandalwood and vanilla…it was interesting how the individual notes that I had loved so much created something so iconic, so familiar and so beautiful when added together.

Recently I’ve been meaning to sit down with some perfume-making products to enjoy some experimentation, but although my artistic and creative energies are inspired by fragrance, I realize that I have sooooo much to learn when it comes to the actual processes of blending and fixing and for the time being, prefer to channel those energies into wearing and writing rather than composing.

THE MEETING

As a thank you gift for reviewing her 2011 Brave New Scents creation, Carmine, an all-natural perfume about which I wrote…

“Wow wow dan double. Kegemaran tangan-down saya sepuluh sampel dihantar kepada saya untuk projek Bau Baru Berani, Carmine juga aroma yang telah menuntut perhatian dari saya; ini bermakna saya sebenarnya telah memakai! Ini kemasukan digunakan mungkin pujian yang terbesar saya boleh Mengurniakan mempertimbangkan bagaimana jarang saya membeli apatah lagi menggunakan minyak wangi semulajadi.”

…perfumer Christi Meshell, founder of Washington’s Rumah-ibu pemimpin keluarga, sent me a discovery kit – some fragrance samples and incense cones. After a few years of learning about, experimenting with and reviewing natural perfumes, I can safely say that I prefer mixed media and synthetics thanks to their longevity and sillage and considering that such an aesthetic was what I grew up enjoying. Christi’s work, Walau bagaimanapun, was surprising in that although not quite similar to mass market synthetics, Carmine & her woods-focused Alpha both had personalities more similar to some of the Middle Eastern and Indian attars and oils I had discovered and loved. Not only were her compositions striking, but the entire vibe was unique.

A few months later I received a sample of Christi’s Amber Life and another small bag of incense. First let me mention that before I even opened the cardboard shipping box I could smell something delicious emanating from the package. While Amber Life (click to read my review) was yet another success for Meshell, it was the aroma of the shipping box that had me completely gaga. Did she spray something in there? Where was the scent coming from? And then it hit me. It had to be the incense cones. Green grass, neroli and sandalwood. Total magic!

Just a few days later while still in Finland, I phoned Christi to tell her how much I loved the incense. “Can you make me a perfume that smells like THAT?” I asked excitedly.

“It IS a perfume…I use my perfume blends to scent my incense,” she explained.

“Hmmmm, dan, I would LOVE to wear that!”

Christi then suggested that she create a fragrance for me based on the same composition as the incense aroma – oren bunga – “I’ve been planning on working with orange blossoms and this is the perfect excuse.”

THE BEGINNING

Nearly giddy with excitement that someone was going to make me a perfume, I began pondering all of the different notes that I typically loved and considered just what exactly I wanted to include in my bespoke fragrance. Almond? Tonka? Labdanum? Galbanum? Sesame? The last time a perfumer created a fragrance for me based on a list of favorite notes, the result was a harsh, dis-harmonic mess. But the goal there was to playfully see what would happen if we blended my favorites rather than a methodical planning process for a well-developed perfume.

Christi made the process much easier by first sending me a number of sample vials, single notes blended with orange blossom. Sebagai contoh, in response to the jasmine sambac accord I wrote, “Loved it although the power of the jasmine somewhat eclipsed the neroli; but I am a huge jasmine fan so it was no surprise that I reacted so positively; heads towards “pretty drawer sachet” territory however without deeper basenotes.” She next sent me a few prototypes of full compositions but in that moment, something had been missing – an overall vision, a point of inspiration, a focus…real-world scent memory.

A quick note about orange blossoms and Marlen: I grew up in sunny south Florida, riding horses after school at ranches that bordered orange groves. Being the land of citrus fruit, it’s not uncommon for Florida’s tourists to encounter orange-blossom themed products at every gift shop…orange blossom honey, orange blossom cologne, orange blossom jelly, dll. I guess the aroma was just completely second nature to me, part of the scented landscape of my childhood. Although I can’t quite put my finger on it, I love the citrusy sweetness and creamy, almost powdery basenote of orange blossoms. Yikes, reading those words one would be hard-pressed to understand the infatuation, but an infatuation it is nevertheless. For a beautiful cultural and historical overview of orange blossom in perfumery check out this great article at CaFleureBon.

THE TRIP

Just as we began working on the bespoke fragrance in late March/early April, I took a trip to southern Spain for a week, putting me in such famous Andalucian cities as Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla. I knew about the preponderance of orange blossom trees in this region and had my fingers crossed that my days might be filled with scented white petals falling from the sky. Malangnya, upon arrival to Granada, my first stop on a 4 city trip, I concluded that the climate was still just a bit on the cool side after peering frustratingly into blossom-less trees. But Spain is a land of contrasts and so a short bus trip west to Cordoba, with its much lower elevation and warmer climate, yielded blossom-covered sidewalks, blossom-filled trees and yes, even white petals falling from the sky. What incredible rapture to walk along a river bank in a medieval Spanish town on a moody, overcast day with orange blossom scenting the air.

My next city offered better weather, a Sunday morning bike ride and even more orange blossoms! What really impressed me in Sevilla was that not only was I greeted with perpetual blossom bliss, but as it was Semana Santa (Holy Week), many of the churches and processionals were burning incense of the traditional, kemenyan, cendana & myrrh kind. Imagine my complete joy at finding such a sweetly-scented city! Lebih-lebih lagi, after a few jaunts into local perfume shops and an emptied wallet, I had in my backpack not one, not two, but four different Spanish-made orange blossom fragrances with various characters…but none of them had any kind of smoke or wood notes. And that’s when it hit me….for my bespoke fragrance I wanted something that utilized both orange blossom AND incense. I wanted my fragrance to smell like Semana Santa in Sevilla!

THE FRAGRANCE

As soon as I got back to Finland, I emailed Christi to tell her about my orange blossom extravaganza and new focus. We also played around with ideas for a name and Christi came up with oM – orange blossom for Marlen. Next we pondered what color to make the bottle….easy one – oren. Akhirnya, Christi suggested she amp up the woods and smoke that we had both liked in one of her prototype fragrances:

I was wondering if your time in Seville would produce inspiration………so glad to hear that I am on the right track. More smoke, more woods, got it! Bouya Agarwood (sustainable) is something “baru” that I have been enjoying playing with and was thinking of adding to the blend; your feedback confirms this. Bouya is smoky, plays very well with the neroli and adds a new dimension to the base as it bonds to the sandalwood adding another layer of woodsy richness, without overriding the leathery/incense notes of the cypriol. I like the bouya since it is void of the “off” notes that other oud’s can throw off as they develop on the skin. I believe this agarwood will add complexity, depth and most importantly, yang “unique signature” that will make this orange blossom creation stand out from the rest! Bouya is rarely used as it can be hard to tame so our combination of notes will be truly unique. Plus, I love featuring under-used aromatics, and bouya is sort of a “red-headed stepchild” as far as the agarwoods go. It is often used to adulterate other agars. I think we can give it a chance to shine here.

It’s funny how it all came together so quickly and how each component of the project naturally compliments the others: orange as a bottle color is a no-brainer considering the focus, but when paired with the letters “oM” it suggests Eastern spirituality, perfect for my Buddhist inclinations. Heck, “oM” itself is such a powerful idea! And that I should latch onto the idea of smoke after Spain, and that it should also pair well with oM, ideas of meditation and Buddhism…dan, it just seems so right! The result, Saya fikir, is a serendiptious pairing of eastern and western concepts and allusions, perfect for me considering how long I’ve lived and traveled between Asia, Europe and North America.

My bespoke perfume process was fast, painless and absolutely delightful, mostly due to the guidance and enthusiasm of Christi. I consider my fragrance to be a complete success and can’t wait to tell you more about the actual aroma…stay tuned!

Leave a comment below telling us about your own bespoke experiences, or perhaps your love of orange blossoms and incense, for your chance to receive a sample of House of Matriarch’s oM, dihantar di mana-mana di dunia, percuma!

Views: 31411

Pro: A completely different take on a leather aroma – neither sweet nor buttery but rather a floral-tinged, dry, leather note that pays homage to the classic chypres of yesteryear..

Cons: Too dry for my tastes and far too much ciste and oakmoss. I was hoping for something sweeter, smokier, and with a more prominent orange blossom note; Niche price tag.

Mengingatkan saya kepada: Robert Piguet Bandit Eau de Toilette; Ivoire de Balmain; Versace L’Homme.

Nota: “Orange oil Valencia, pettigrain Paraquay and shimmering orange flowers Tunisia are fused with jasmin Egypt and orris absolute. This scent rests on a rich base of leather with birch tar, Spanish ciste, oak moss and patchouli.” Saks.com

Pereka bentuk Description: “Cuir d’Oranger is thoroughly reminiscent of times gone by, it is extravagant, luxurious and smells of tradition. It has a green Mediterranean note with fleur d’oranger to prevent the leather notes becoming too dry or powdery. It smells of delicious gentlemen, or how you would like them to smell. Exuding style, the scent was blended for the chic and sophisticated.” MillerHarris.com

Bilangan kali diuji: 5 times from 2 different sample vials sent to me by friends.

Bilangan semburan yang digunakan untuk kajian ini: 6 or so dabs to back of hands, wrists, and neck.

Kekuatan Fragrance: Eau de Parfum

Pembangunan: (Linear / Purata / Kompleks)Like many a Miller Harris scent, Cuir d’Oranger moves from heady top and middle notes directly to oakmoss. The floral notes are barely perceptible on my skin and the leather aroma becomes nearly undetectable as the scent dries down.

Umur Panjang: (Pendek / Purata / Tahan lama) 4-6 hours.

Bangun: (A Little / Purata / Banyak): I was a little overwhelmed at first, but then the fragrance quickly calmed to average.

Di mana saya boleh membeli? $145 Amerika Syarikat, 3.4 oz EDP spray, TulipShe.com.

Pembungkusan: Flat, square bottle with black signature Miller Harris botanical print in a shiny black box with botanical relief.

Bottom line: The first time I tried this scent, I was enamored because after sampling fragrance after fragrance (like the unparalleled Knize Ten, the Lutens wonder Cuir Mauresque, dll), I was surprised by Cuir d’Oranger’s mellow tones. Malah, here’s what I originally wrote in August of 2005:

This is the ULTIMATE Miller Harris scent and is at the top of my wishlist. If Rochas Lui was a hint of what could be done with orange blossom and patchouli, Miller Harris takes it a step further and gives us a scent a la Caron. This is Narcisse Noir without the sandalwood and replaced with a buttery leather note, woody birch and green patchouli.The scent opens with Tunisian orange blossoms, tetapi “opening” is not quite accurate…the entire composition is present, sparkling and exotic. As the scent progresses, the hint of white jasmine petals can be detected, adding a radiant depth to the fragrance as it morphs from floral to leather, woods and grasses. The base is magic…and subtle….this is not primarily a leather scent, but as the name implies, a balance between leather and floral…the balance is constantly present as each of the base notes reveals itself, the watery freshness of the floral notes echo throughout. The oakmoss and birch add a nice earthy touch, calling to mind the drydown of Terre de Bois, especially when the patchouli arrives…albeit extremely subtlely.After about 45 minit, the scent has softened and I’m left somewhere between Narcisse Noir and Tabac Blond, though let’s face it, those are two masterpeices of perfumery, but if you could imagine their lovechild, Cuir d’Oranger is it!

Well, here I am 7 years later and I’m pretty floored that I was so full of praise. It’s not that Cuir d’Oranger is a bad scent, but I find that after multiple wearings, ada sesuatu yang hilang di sini. In looking at my first and perhaps somewhat premature review, I wonder where the spark in my sparkling comment disappeared to. The few times I’ve tested the scent in the last few days, the leather was anything but buttery and the florals anything but radiant. Lebih-lebih lagi, this review was inspired by a fellow Basenotes member who commented that the few times he sampled the scent, the aroma seemed to be unique upon each wearing. Is it possible that something has changed in the composition since 2005?

What I mostly feel while writing this review seven years later is the desire for a glass of water – Cuir d’Oranger is so dry this time around that I’m left thirsty and parched. Had the orange in question been a sweeter, fuller orange blossom and the leather more of a sueded, buttery note, I would undoubtedly be happier. By all means try this one if orange blossom, kulit, or oakmoss intrigues you. For my tastes, it was just far too much of the oakmoss and far too little of the others, especially as the scent dried on my skin.

I believe the scent has been discontinued as it is no longer listed on the MillerHarris.com website nor on Saks.com. Perhaps the ingredients had been difficult to source reliably or consistently and that’s why it smelled so different the various times I tested it. Walau bagaimanapun, I’m glad I got the chance to sample this creation as I typically enjoy perfumer Lyn Harris’s compositions and look forward to seeing how Miller Harris might interpret a leather note nowadays.

As I’ve lived with this sample for 7 tahun, it might be time to pass it on…who wants it??? Leave a comment below!

Nota: I couldn’t find a large image of Cuir d’Oranger and so used an image of Feuilles de Tabac instead…

Tinggalkan komen pada akhir kajian asal bagi peluang untuk memenangi sebotol baru 1oz Elie Saab LE Parfum, dihantar di mana-mana di dunia, percuma!

Kisah benar: Ia mesyuarat besar saya dengan orang-orang di Coty. Saya duduk di salah satu daripada kerusi mereka bahawa seseorang itu boleh tidak mungkin selesa dalam. Terlalu dekat dengan lantai; kembali cenderung terlalu jauh. Saya beralih, dan kemudian mengalihkan lagi, cuba untuk kelihatan hebat. Saya telah mendapat pada Levis nipis-patut, hitam kulit tentera but, rantaian keluli tahan karat dan manik Buddha. Kepala saya baru dicukur dan saya memakai Euphoria untuk Lelaki. Seorang wanita duduk di seluruh lobi dari saya, bijaksana di bangku rata diimbangi. Dia mesti lebih selesa daripada saya. Dia sibuk pada telefon bimbit, but our eyes meet.

Saya beralih lagi. Apa yang…?

Aroma yang menarik perhatian saya. Saya menghujani. Saya menggunakan deodoran. Yang tidak dapat mungkin saya. Ia boleh menjadi wanita di sana? Dia melihat saya dan tersenyum…masih menjalankan, chatting away on her cell phone.

Saya dikelilingi oleh nooks kecil dibina ke dalam dinding dengan botol Davidoff dan Nina Ricci teliti dipaparkan. Terdapat meja koktel dengan majalah, dan tangga naik hanya beberapa kaki ke peringkat kedua. Belakang saya adalah bilik persidangan. Bilangan orang mula untuk mengumpul dan saya membayangkan mereka bertemu untuk membincangkan nama seterusnya Sarah Jessica Parker wangian:

“Kita perlu menjadi lebih sukar kali ini,” demands the husky man in the Banana Republic chinos.

“Tetapi SJP menuntut bahawa kita memberikan autonomi dia lebih,” offers the tall blonde in the Dress Barn ensemble.

“Skru autonomi,” mengganggu wanita India, “ini adalah isu penjenamaan!”

Ok, jadi saya tidak benar-benar mendengar apa-apa selain daripada komen dari lelaki yang membimbangkan kosong cari tentang meraih cawan kopi. Saya menolak perhimpunan itu sama sekali kerana saya beralih di kerusi penyeksaan saya dan menangkap bau busuk bau itu sekali lagi. Saya bersahaja cuba untuk meliputi pergerakan hidung saya ke arah lubang saya, berharap tiada siapa akan notis. Jika bau ini berterusan, Saya mungkin mempunyai untuk melarikan diri ke tandas lagi kerana dalam 5 mintues saya akan bertemu dengan orang-orang daripada Calvin, Kenneth, Nina, J Lo, and Sarah…I can’t go in there if this stench is coming from me.

Wanita pada telefon bimbit keluar lobi dan saya keseorangan lagi. Saya bersandar ke depan, cuba untuk melihat santai. Saya berehat kaki kiri saya seluruh kaki kanan saya dan melihat ke bawah untuk seketika. The stench is more pronounced.

Bolehkah ia ...?

Adalah bahawa ...?

Di mana ...?

Ia adalah kasut saya!!!

Saya melihat sekeliling untuk memastikan tiada siapa yang menonton saya sebelum lebih rapat memeriksa but kiri saya. Ada sesuatu yang putih yang melekat pada kasut saya. Ia kelihatan seperti, sayang Tuhan…

…booger humongous!

“Tidak, tiada, tiada, Pengkritik Perfume tidak mempunyai sekeping gergasi lendir pada kasutnya!” Saya fikir. Dan seterusnya, walaupun New York air hidung tidak boleh menjadi yang busuk!

Ia berbau seperti, dan, it smells like…Swiss cheese.

“Ini ADALAH Manhattan,” Saya termenung. Saya telah hanya terpaksa makan tengahari dengan Karen dari Sniffapalooza dan telah berjalan melalui Kampung, past a thousand restaurants and it’s totally possible-

“Marlen?” a voice asks.

“Ya?” I look up from my shoe as if I had just gotten caught picking my nose.

“Sara akan bersama anda dalam beberapa minit.”

Ia receptionist, dan saya fikir saya dielakkan bahawa salah satu. Saya tidak fikir dia melihat saya memeriksa asing pada kasut saya. Saya Harus mendapatkan ini .... guck ... off saya. Tiada cara yang saya boleh bercakap tentang kedatangan kedua Puig dengan swiss berbau keju, skanky, booger-looking goop on my shoe.

Saya sampai ke dalam beg saya, merebut salah satu handywipes kawan dari Athens menghantar saya (Greece, tidak Georgia) dan bersahaja mengelap tangan saya. Saya melihat sekeliling untuk memastikan tiada siapa yang boleh melihat saya sebelum sampai ke arah jari kaki saya. Selamat! Saya mengeluarkan nastiness dan balut ia di handywipe seolah-olah ia sekeping sisa toksik, labah-labah smushed, a ...

Tiba-tiba, dikosongkan bilik persidangan. Saya duduk dalam kedudukan yang ganjil dengan tidur basah-dalam tangan, bersandar atas kasut saya. Apakah ini mesti kelihatan seperti?

Saya cuba untuk menyambung semula kedudukan bermaruah, berharap bahawa saya telah diskret. My first introduction to one of the world’s major fragrance companies and I’m spending my lobby-time wiping ripe New York street residue off my shoe.

Saya melihat sekeliling untuk tong sampah, mendeposit handywipe yang digunakan, dan kembali ke….tidak selesa…

“Bukan masa ini,” Saya fikir, “Saya duduk di atas bangku diimbangi masa ini.”

Satu lapisan menarik si rambut coklat menuruni tangga atas saya dan apabila mencapai langkah terakhir, perubahan pusingan kelek dan panggilan keluar, “Marlen?”

Ia Sara. We introduce ourselves as Sara explains who we’ll be meeting.

“Adakah anda bau yang?” she asks.

“Oh tidak ...” I worry.

“Ia berbau seperti ... seperti”

Di sini ia datang, “Saya minta maaf, I-

“Berbau seperti ...”

Oh tidak! Dia boleh bau!

“... Euphoria untuk Lelaki,” blurts out Sara.

“APA?” Saya menjerit senyap. Saya terkejut dan lega pada masa yang sama. “Dalam, , saya disembur pada Euphoria beberapa hanya beberapa minit yang lalu , "Saya , Saya disembur pada Euphoria beberapa hanya beberapa minit yang lalu,” Dalam
reply.

“Bau indah!”

“Terima kasih,” Saya katakan, terima kasih kepada semua yang suci untuk dia tidak mengatakan “Swiss”.

Moral kisah ini: Apabila menuju ke mesyuarat penting dalam “bandar”, sentiasa pastikan untuk memeriksa kasut anda apabila keluar lif dan sebelum melangkah masuk ke dalam pejabat. Anda tidak pernah tahu hanya APA yang akan berpaut kepada kaki kiri anda dalam perjalanan dari teksi ke pintu depan!

Anda akan menyukai ini jika anda suka: Tembakau, chypres, leather fragrances, Fresh Cannabis Santal.

Pro: So incredibly different from most chypres thanks to Dawn’s light hand with the oakmoss – no grassy, soapy drydown here; absolutely no “minyak wangi asli” vibe.

Cons: I wish the longevity was a bit better.

Nota: "Nota Top: Bergamot, Blackberry, Clary Sage, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Neroli Nota Tengah: Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Carnation, Chinese Geranium, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Madu, Marijuana Accord, Akar Orris Asas nota: Brown Oakmoss, Castoreum, Incense Notes, Kulit, Peru Balsam, Tobacco Absolute” dshperfumes.com

Mengingatkan saya kepada: Le Smoking is a throwback to men’s fragrances of the mid-80′s – think Tuscany Uomo and Santos de Cartier…or even further back to the classic chypres of the late 60′s and early 70′s such as Rabanne Nuit, Ivoire de Balmain, dll. It’s tone, Walau bagaimanapun, is a bit lighter than all of these.

Pereka bentuk Description: “The Tuxedo for a woman was revolutionary and avant-garde at the time that YSL began introducing the style into his collection. Inspired somewhat by the smoking jacket and women’s liberation, the Tuxedo was a continuous muse for every subsequent collection right until the last. “Le Smoking”, named after the first Tuxedo design, is a sophisticated green chypre fragrance based of course on the Blond Tabac (fine cigarette) note as well as the new ‘marijuana’ cigarette and Moroccan incense. Created for Denver Art Museum and the only North American showing of the Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective Exhibit. This collection not only chronicles YSL’s long and wildly creative career from his years at Dior to his finale in 2002 but takes inspiration from specifically chosen garment pieces in the show that perfectly illustrate the artistic collaboration between fashion, culture and perfume.” dshperfumes.com

Bilangan kali diuji: 3 kali

Bilangan semburan yang digunakan untuk kajian ini: 2 sprays on the back of my hand, from a sample sent to me by the perfumer.

Kekuatan Fragrance: Eau de Parfum

Pembangunan: (Linear / Purata / Kompleks) Le Smoking is seamlessly blended and though it moves from a bright neroli & citrus opening to warm, ambery basenotes, the core of the composition never really shifts – tembakau, marijuana and leather are always at the heart.

Umur Panjang: (Pendek / Purata / Tahan lama) Berlangsung selama kira-kira 2-3 hrs on my skin; I wish it packed a bit more punch for a longer period of time. Although, being somewhat understated, I imagine this one would be easier to wear in hot weather than some of the powerhouse classics. Menariknya, a couple of times I thought Le Smoking had disappeared completely only to find myself wondering “what’s that delicious smell?”…this one likes to play hide and seek!

Bangun: (A Little / Purata / Banyak) Slightly less than most chypres that I’ve tried.

Di mana saya belinya? Get a set of all 6 wangian (Ligne Trapéze, The Beat Look, Merokok le, Euphorisme d’Opium, La Vie en Rose, and Ma Plus Belle Histoire d’Amour) dalam 5 ml flasks for $90 Amerika Syarikat dshperfumes.com; 10ml EDP spray $55 Amerika Syarikat dshperfumes.com

Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Nota Tentang Pembungkusan: Simple rectangular glass bottle with silver top and label.

Bottom line: An homage from one master to another, Le Smoking was my hands down favorite of Dawn’s collection created for the Denver Art Museum’s YSL retrospective. Euphorisme is Dawn’s take on Opium while La Vie en Rose is her take on Paris and Beat Look is her take on Y. Ligne Trapeze is a grand aldehydic-floral-oriental with stunning iris highlights and Ma Plus Belle is an airy white floral focused around linden and muguet.

If you haven’t already been introduced to Dawn’s work, you’re missing out on an icon in American perfumery. Along with perfumers like Mandy Aftel, Alexandra Balahoutis and Yosh Han, Dawn has created a much-appreciated wonderworld of handmade fragrance that is as much about the artistry and imagination behind the aroma as the aroma itself. Following Dawn’s work is kind of like following a favorite singer/songwriter who continually and inspiredly experiments with different genres. Perhaps Dawn is my Joni Mitchell of scent?

Walau bagaimanapun, as chypres and I never really get along, likely due to the dry and bitter soapiness of the oakmoss (and I also have problems with tobacco scents for the same reason), I was a bit surprised to fall so deeply in love with Dawn’s creation. Despite the complexity of the composition, Le Smoking has a singular character, not unlike the aroma that greets the nose at the opening of a filled humidor. But what really gets me going is the vanillic sweetness at the drydown that lingers and lingers, so unlike many of the scents it reminds me of who become far too dry for my tastes.

Sesungguhnya, Le Smoking as a natural perfume feels as if it could have come from an equivalent niche house like L’Artisan or Caron. Now if only Dawn could create an extrait version that retained Le Smoking’s golden tones just a little bit longer….and if you love chypres, check out my review of Dawn’s 2011 pelepasan, Pandora.

Leave a comment below for your chance to receive samples from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s YSL collection, dihantar di mana-mana di dunia, percuma!

About the Perfumer: I’ve been following the development of perfumer Emma Leah’s work for the past few years now and am delighted to finally have the opportunity to write about her creations. Together with Fleurage business partner Robert Luxford, Emma had the sense that “The great art of perfumery was misssing something. Amongst all of the beautiful packaging and mass marketing the modern perfume buying experience was bereft of any attention to personal needs. There was nowhere to go to find genuine guidance and information about this very personal, intimate product. Fragrance itself had changed and allergies were creating the opposite to the desired effect. Perfume had lost its sensuality.” Their response was to create one of Australia’s only all-natural perfume ateliers that offer a range of scented products from bespoke perfumes to bath and body products. Visit them online at http://www.fleurage-natural-perfume.com.au.

*A few notes about Fleurage perfumes: Sometimes timing is everything when sampling perfume and I unfortunately received Emma’s samples during Finnish springtime, which of course is actually Australia’s autumn. I had been pining for warmer weather so that I could finally get back to wearing my green, citrus and marine fragrances when first testing Mabon, Imp and Dandy and so the autumnal character that Emma ascribes to at least Mabon just felt all wrong to me. Now that I’ve had a few months to play with these fragrances, and now that I’ve had my fill of Northern Hemisphere spring and summer, I’m already predicting that Mabon (along with Imp and Dandy) will become a passion leading to strict rationing of my generous samples. Although described as “a perfume for men”, I think all three could easily be unisex. And although natural perfumes, the aesthetic is anything but typical. At times the quality of the ingredients and the mercurial nature of the compositions remind me that these are not mass-market, department store fragrances…but neither are they the work of a novice natural perfumer…there’s a playful mystery at work in Emma’s compositions, and you can add me to her growing list of adoring fans.

satu

MABON

Pereka bentuk Description: Sharp spices are enveloped in rich warm woods and leather then relax into the deeper smokey resins and earth notes, a perfume for men. An autumnal chord of woods, earth and spices. Inspired by the seasonal harvest festival when the earth begins to rest and we gather the rewards of a fruitful spring and summer.

Nota: Base: Nilam, Mur, Vetiver; Middle: Cardamom, Bay leaf, Mimosa; Top: Allspice, Pepper

Mengingatkan saya kepada: Very definitely could fit into the Comme des Garcons line of fragrances…all of that spice creates reference to the original CDG fragrance but Mabon is smoother, softer and sweeter.

Bottom line: Mabon is a fascinating composition that reveals various facets throughout its development. At times medicinal, at other times smoky, Mabon opens as an homage to the classic bay rum colognes of men’s fragrance history. At the top of the composition I get a tangy allspice and bay, and a surprisingly subtle pepper (thank goodness…pepper along with cumin is my most dreaded fragrance note). The base of Mabon is striking with its glimmers of incense-like patchouli and myrrh. Hmmm, now that I think about it, Emma seems to have married two different fragrance archetypes – yesteryear’s bay rum cologne with today’s incense accord. The drydown is perhaps the most striking aspect of Mabon and where I’m most overwhelmed by its intriguing beauty: The basenotes sweeten and I keep checking the list of notes for sandalwood, vanilla and benzoin but to no avail…where is this sweetness coming from? Could it be the myrrh and patchouli alone doing this? Whereas CDG goes to celery seed and pepper on my skin, Mabon goes to Spanish cathedral. Simply fascinating.

satu

IMP

Pereka bentuk Description: A burst of lemon citrus and tangy pepper opens almost immediately to the heart of green herbs, woods and more citrus – a perfume for men. A green pepper chord around a heart of woods. The mischievous little boy inside all men is the Imp — daring them to indulge their playful side. Deliciously wicked with the face of an angel.

Nota: Base: May Chang, Hyssop, Opoponax; Middle: Ylang ylang, Bergamot, Neroli; Top: Pepper, Lemongrass

Mengingatkan saya kepada: I can honestly say that I’ve never experienced anything quite like Imp. Ya, a number of familiar notes have been used but the overall effect is startlingly unfamiliar!

Bottom line: “What is THIS?” my nose and brain demand. So many favorites here – bergamot, green pepper, neroli, opoponax…Hmmm. Pada mulanya menghidu, Imp feels slightly, dan, aromatherapeutic, but lurking behind those topnotes there is an intriguing albeit fleeting sweetness, an accord that recalls Caron’s classic Narcisse Noir thanks to the neroli and bergamot. I can see how the name and aroma actually go together here; with May Chang offering a citrusy punch and hyssop delivering an almost minty edge, Imp is bright, tangy and playful, but by no means clean, light or simple. As the scent relaxes, I’m reminded of Gobin Daude’s Biche dans L’Absinthe atau Yves Rocher’s Aztek, and these are strange references…why am I suddenly smelling wormwood absinthe at the drydown?

satu

DANDY BOHEME

Pereka bentuk Description: Sweet metallic powder opens which then develops subtly into a rich herbal floral and settles finally into a warm woody animalic note. Inspired the stylish gentleman of an age past. Velvet and brocade suits and lace trim shirts — flamboyant, dapper and individual.

Nota: Base: Sandalwood, Kemenyan, Labdanum, Oakmoss; Middle: Tuberose, Buah Pala, Jasmine Sambac; Top: Bergamot. French Lavender

Mengingatkan saya kepada: Sekali lagi, other than a jasmine or tuberose attar, there is really nothing to which I can compare this jasmine/tuberose/sandalwood blend.

Pembikin Wangian, Emma Leah

Bottom line: Because I’m obsessed with jasmine and have been recently converted to a tuberose-lover, Dandy could have been made specifically for me in mind. I’ve also recently become intrigued with lavender after years of strong repulsion and have always loved sandalwood and labdanum…anything sweet, woody and resinous. So for me, Dandy is pretty much perfect. The most natural smelling of the three, likely due to the overall vision of the fragrance and the ingredients, Dandy is a sweet, unisex floral that is actually very “cantik” and a white floral lover’s dream. Whereas in Mabon, the drydown is the star, Dandy is all about its topnote accord. Gone are the fecal characteristics of the jasmine; gone are the waxy, powdery tones of the tuberose; and gone are the often meaty edges of lavender. These three notes are blended beautifully and emphasize everything I love about them. The other notes in the composition undoubtedly contribute to its overall success, but they by no means take the stage in the same way those topnotes do. If Mabon is a spicy, smoky chameleon and Imp is a green mystery, then Dandy is a familiar fop with a blossom in his vest.

Leave a comment below and either share your experience with Fleurage perfumes or tell us which scent most intrigues you for your chance to win samples of Emma’s creations, dihantar di mana-mana di dunia, percuma!

Tahun ini, projek yang paling menakjubkan akan menarik bersama-sama. Blok-blok bangunan, sebahagian, orang-orang yang membentuk alam semesta. Blok-blok bangunan adalah minyak wangi yang indah berdasarkan blok bangunan asal: empat – tiada, 5! – unsur-unsur. Mereka adalah perfumers berbakat bekerja dalam pelbagai bahan – beberapa semua semulajadi, ada juga yang tidak. Mereka adalah penulis minyak wangi yang berbakat, menghidu ciptaan dan membuat satu persembahan perkataan. Mereka adalah impian dari minda orang kreatif di seluruh dunia dan, terutamanya, impian seorang wanita di luar sebuah pulau Massachusetts, Monica Miller Perfume Pharmer. Beliau telah mengumpulkan kumpulan perfumers dari seluruh dunia yang telah menghabiskan tahun lepas mewujudkan aroma yang diilhamkan oleh unsur-unsur, termasuk elemen kelima yang dicadangkan oleh Starhawk: semangat. Fokus untuk projek ini adalah pada permulaan purba, kerja dalaman… semua. Dalam perkataan Monica, “Bagi maksud projek ini, Purba kepada saya bermakna bahan asal…akan kembali kepada ELEMEN yang membentuk planet kita, kami badan, kami diri. Apa yang kita dibuat fizikal dan rohani? Apa yang kita berpegang paling suci?”

Dalam jawatan hari ini, Saya meluangkan masa dengan wangian Air, 5 gambaran indah AIR dalam bau – 4 semua minyak wangi semulajadi dan 1 bercampur-campur media minyak wangi. Justine Kren / Djinn wangi, Ane Walsh pembikin Wangian, Shelley Waddington / EnVoyage Perfumes, Mandy Aftel / Aftelier Perfumes, dan Anu Prestonia / Anu Essentials. I’ve decided to use metaphors to describe these as they all brought to mind specific images or atmospheres.

Lihat lain aroma ulasan zaman purba saya dengan mengklik HERE.

Meninggalkan komen di bawah dan beritahu kami yang tafsiran air anda paling tertarik untuk peluang anda untuk memenangi sampel bau yang sangat! Membeli pek sampel semua 5 aroma untuk $28 atau $35 (di luar Amerika Syarikat) di sini.

satu

Keladi Suph – SEA Pandangan

Pereka bentuk Description: “‘Sea Scape Perfume by Anu Essentials syair pujian saya kepada Auset, the primordial Great Mother. In the ancient Kemetic (Mesir) tradisi, Auset is mother of mothers. Known for her great capacity to nourish and nurture, dia melahirkan dan kehidupan tiap-tiap sesuatu. Beliau adalah keajaiban dan misteri dan semua perkara yang mendalam dan benar. Cintanya dan kekuatan pesakit tidak mengenali batas. Auset yang tegas menumpukan, terutamanya untuk kanak-kanak dan keluarga. Kanak-kanak suka dan tertarik kepada seseorang (perempuan atau lelaki) di mana fakulti Auset maju. Bahawa orang yang penyayang, pemahaman, pesakit dan penyayang; dia atau dia mahu memberi makan kepada kamu, mahu anda berasa disayangi. Intipati auset tinggal di laut. Beliau adalah kuat dan tak tertundukkan, lagi dia mengalir dengan mudah di bawah, sekitar, di atas dan di luar halangan, always avoiding conflict. She likes things that are watery, seperti salad, tembikai dan timun. Ini adalah antara perkara-perkara yang anda hendak mengambil ke pantai sebagai persembahan kepada Ibu Agung, cinta yang untuk anak-anaknya berjalan sebagai sedalam laut. Sebagai seorang yang lahir di bawah tanda kebakaran dan pada hari Selasa (sehari yang diperintah oleh Marikh), Kecenderungan saya adalah kepada selain daripada Ibu Agung. I’m more often fiery and impatient and am reminded that I need to do more to develop my Auset faculty. And so it is with great desire that I set out to create a scent to help remind me to embody Auset’s essence. Saya tahu bahawa saya tertarik kepada perkara-perkara yang mewakili Ibu Agung seperti kerang cowrie, mutiara, kristal, the moon and I absolutely love being in the ocean. So it is with the creation of Sea Scape that I set out to design a perfume to help invoke her energy, her demeanor and ways of functioning. If the Great Mother doesn’t seem quite sexy enough, ingat Auset adalah sumber kemagnetan yang primitif dan tidak dapat ditolak melalui yang mengandung dan kelahiran datang ke ...” AnuEssentials.com

Nota: “Melati adalah satu bunga Auset dan dari konsep wangian ini, saya tahu saya mahu minyak wangi ini akan berpusat kira-kira dua pati rendah, melati dan rumpai laut. Saya telah dijemput untuk mengambil bahagian dalam Monica, Miller Bauan purba 2012 Projek perfume, yang akan dilancarkan pada bulan Jun. Cabaran adalah untuk membuat minyak wangi yang menggunakan kedua-dua elemen yang padat dengan cara yang harmoni dan tidak telah ia terlalu berat untuk pelancaran Jun. Memandangkan kedalaman rumpai laut, Saya cuba untuk mengekalkan cahaya nota asas yang lain dengan kemenyan boswella, Opoponax Ethiopia, sustainable sandalwood and costus. Untuk jantung saya telah dua melur bermain antara satu sama lain: a grandiflorum absolute and a jasmine e.o. Blended with these two intoxicating essences are violet leaf for that lettuce element, berry bumbu Cengkih sedikit rempah itu, neroli and an exquisite rose alba. I wanted to continue with lightness, so there are several citrus scents at the top. They include petitgrain, grapefruit putih, dan Clementine.” AnuEssentials.com

Jenis Air: Saya memilih Yam Suph, atau Ibrani untuk Laut Merah (Laut daripada Reeds), sebahagiannya kerana saya memang diingatkan air laut hijau berkilauan, sebahagiannya kerana dedikasi Auset Anu (Isis) and mostly because of the colors in the image of the Red Sea above.

Bottom line: Laut Pandangan wangian semulajadi – bahawa vibe aromatherapeutic begitu biasa di kalangan Naturals adalah memang tidak disangkalkan lagi hadir. Apa yang saya menikmati kebanyakan Laut Pandangan adalah cara wangian nampaknya tiga peringkat: air, langit dan bumi. Citruses dan nota rumpai laut membuka dan menguasai wangian sementara melati mewujudkan halus, berangin tengah-tengah bunga. Akhirnya, kayu dan damar menawarkan angin panas dan mendalam serta sentuhan kemanisan yang masih wujud pada penutup minyak wangi. Saya terutama menyukai penjelasan Anu – “Untuk jantung saya telah dua melur bermain antara satu sama lain: a grandiflorum absolute and a jasmine e.o. Blended with these two intoxicating essences are violet leaf for that lettuce element” – sebagai Laut Pandangan pasti mempunyai 1 garing, watak hijau yang memuji haba musim panas dan ciri ini pendakap, komposisi menyegarkan. Saya sebenarnya mengingatkan Lebah Burt salad toner, ketagihan sedikit saya untuk bulan-bulan musim panas disebabkan manis, leafy aroma.

Pembikin Wangian: Anu Prestonia, http://anuessentials.com/

satu

Mizu no Suzuran – KAJIAN DALAM AIR

Pereka bentuk Description: “Satu Kajian di Air diilhamkan oleh elemen air tawar. Matlamat saya ialah untuk membuat luar biasa semata-mata, basah, dan haruman yang tidak bersalah dan memasukkannya ke dalam keanggunan, panjang umur dan sillage minyak wangi klasik yang cemerlang. Mood: Menyegarkan, sejuk, basah dan seksi.” From correspondence with perfumer.

Nota: “TOP: Seriawan, Kapur, Green Apple, Bergamot, Embun Drops; JANTUNG: Air Rose, Jasmine, Daun hijau, Neroli, Seriawan; BASE: Sandalwood, Guaiac Kayu, Cabreuva, Air Nota, Kasturi” As listed on the fragrance sample.

Jenis Air: Suzuran no mizu Jepun untuk air muguet (teratai-lembah), walaupun pelbagai Jepun daripada muguet, Pieris japonica, sebenarnya belukar lebih daripada rumpai tanah (Saya tahu, kurang romantis untuk memanggil ia rumpai…tetapi ia adalah!). Saya mempunyai memori yang berminat loji pieris merah jambu dalam penuh Mac mekar, menitis dengan salji lebur pada petang yang cerah di Osaka. A Study in Water strongly reminds me of that aroma of new muguet buds mingled with the icy drops and wet earth.

Bottom line: Harapan boleh menjadi berbahaya kerana mereka sering membawa kepada kekecewaan. Tetapi kerana Shelley Waddington adalah salah satu perfumers mutlak kegemaran saya, ia adalah sukar bagi saya tidak terlalu teruja apabila pensampelan Satu Kajian dalam Air. Selepas 1 menghidu, fikiran saya adalah semata-mata “Bagaimana di dunia?? Dia dilakukan sekali lagi!”

Satu Kajian di Air lebih seperti kajian dalam lily lembah (seriawan), berbentuk loceng mereka yang kecil dan berwarna putih bunga yang tumbuh dalam tandan dan itu adalah satu keunikan wangian yang klasik seperti Dior Diorissimo atau Jessica McClintock. Tetapi ini adalah sangat segar, hijau lily lembah, terutamanya dengan aksen kapur, daun hijau dan epal hijau. Oleh itu, Saya meragui sesiapa yang bimbang tentang florals memakai akan diganggu oleh fokus muguet. Bagi mereka yang DO florals yang cinta, Satu Kajian di Air tidak pernah kurang ajar atau merimaskan dan datang seperti vintaj Diorissimo memenuhi D&G Light Blue! Dengan unjuran yang sangat baik dan panjang umur (semua minyak wangi Shelley bahawa saya telah banyak menguji setakat ini seolah-olah untuk berkongsi sifat-sifat ini), Satu Kajian dalam mengeringkan Air untuk berkayu 1, sedikit asas musky tetapi tidak pernah kehilangan yang cerah, cool quality.

Pembikin Wangian: Shelley Waddington, EnVoyage Perfumes

satu

Wap herba – HUJAN (Minyak mandi)

Pereka bentuk Description: “Segar, meningkatkan dengan nota epal menampilkan ravensara dan chamomile khas dari Afrika Selatan bersama-sama dengan minyak pati lain. Minyak mandi kami dibuat minyak tulen penting, dengan pembawa tidak. ” Aftelier.com

Nota: As above.

Jenis Air: Tanpa ragu-ragu, Hujan mengingatkan saya tentang cawan mengukus chamomile & peppermint tea.

Bottom line: Saya akan membuat ini pendek dan mudah: 1 berterus terang, minyak herba yang membuka dengan pudina pedas dan chamomile (dan adakah saya mengesan kayu putih sedikit?). Yang ravensara (jenis daripada laurel) hanya menambah rasa herba keseluruhan. Hujan dengan cepat menenangkan hijau, aroma spermin pada kulit saya. Saya yakin ini akan melakukan keajaiban bagi orang-orang yang sakit otot, selaran matahari atau melankolik. This is a mint-lover’s dream.

Pembikin Wangian: Mandy Aftel, http://www.aftelier.com

satu

Yang Selvas – Fo Bleu

Pereka bentuk Description: “Ini bukan mengenai air air, ia adalah tentang status bau semasa kemasukan saya ke dalam Projek Scent zaman purba yang dihoskan oleh Monica Skye Miller / Pharmer Perfume. Saya memilih air dengan serta-merta kerana pada masa pilihan itu dibuat, ia sesuai headspace semasa saya. Ia masih sesuai. Dalam headspace itu, Saya dikaitkan air dengan perbuatan lahir, membawa kehidupan ke dunia dalam terpancut. Yang paling unsur, paling primal, perairan. Dan dalam headspace bahawa, Saya terus diambil jauh ke dalam hutan yang gelap di mana aroma zaitun warna lumut berpaut kepada batu-batu berkilau basah berpunca dankness tertentu yang yang hampir sama seperti bau air kelahiran. Sebuah perpaduan sempurna antara air berpusar pirus hangat, lembap bumi hitam, lumut breathy memabukkan-bersuara, bulu ayam berangin leafed kolam dedaunan, dan tebal petaled bunga teratai mencapai ke arah cahaya. Ini bukan bau laut, mahupun jutaan sungai pinda. Ia adalah bau tenang. Aroma jangkaan.” OhTrueApothecary.blogspot.com

Nota: “Blue Lotus Mitti ~ ~ ~ Santali Neroli” OhTrueApothecary.blogspot.com

Jenis Air: Ia adalah pilihan yang sukar…pemikiran awal saya ialah untuk pergi dengan Eater Lotus Homerian kemasyhuran, tetapi imej yang gelap, hutan basah hanya menguasai fikiran saya, mungkin kerana persamaan Lylli Bleu Bogner legenda dan sedih dihentikan Hutan yang mendalam (1995). Apabila saya mula membaca tentang hutan hujan Tengah dan Amerika Selatan, Saya tahu saya berada di landasan yang betul: “Suhu yang tinggi dan hujan lebat menghasilkan tumbuh-tumbuhan subur di kawasan-kawasan ini. Terdapat padat hutan khatulistiwa dikenali sebagai Selvas. Ini adalah hutan malar hijau terbesar di dunia. Hutan ini sentiasa mencari hijau, kerana tiada musim yang ditetapkan untuk menanam, berbunga dan gugur daun. Pokok-pokok daun luruh susut daun mereka pada masa sepanjang tahun, tetapi sentiasa mungkin untuk mencari pokok daun luruh banyak di daun. Ciri yang paling luar biasa hutan khatulistiwa adalah pelbagai pokok. Kadang-kadang, beberapa jenis pokok yang ditemui di kawasan yang sangat kecil. Hutan adalah padat. Sebagai perjuangan pokok untuk cahaya matahari, mereka membesar dengan ketinggian yang besar 40 untuk 50 meter. Pokok-pokok biasanya membentuk kanopi tebal, dan cahaya matahari dihalang daripada sampai ke lantai hutan. Terdapat pelbagai jenis daripada lianas (tumbuhan memanjat), pokok paku pakis dan tumbuhan parasit (yang tumbuh di atas tumbuhan lain), yang juga menghalang penembusan sinaran Matahari untuk tingkat terendah. Oleh itu, seluruh rantau kelihatan gelap, lembap dan suram. Apabila cahaya boleh menembusi lantai hutan, semak dari pokok rendah, pokok renek dan sebagainya., berkembang. Hampir, semua pokok-pokok adalah jenis malar hijau yang-leafed umum. Kebanyakan mereka adalah pokok-pokok kayu keras seperti mahogani, merah Wood, kayu hitam, besi kayu, hijau hati, cincona, getah, dll. Palms dan pokok paku-pakis juga ditemui di hutan yang paling khatulistiwa. Di kawasan pantai dan paya, hutan paya bakau berkembang maju.” Kish.in

Bottom line: Lylli Bleu adalah satu kejutan yang benar. Tidak semua apa yang saya telah dijangka berdasarkan wangian yang lain dalam kumpulan ini, Saya menghargai penjelasan pembikin Wangian Justine Kren bahawa ini tidak semestinya tafsiran air tetapi inspirasi berdasarkan unsur dalam alam…dalam kes ini hutan lembap. Dan pada pandangan saya, Dia berjaya sepenuhnya. Kemasukan mitti (Attar dari tanah yang dibakar dan cendana) kejutan pertama di sini dalam wangian diilhamkan air. Darren pada Floracoepia menjelaskan bahawa mitti adalah “Aroma bumi, diperolehi daripada penyulingan kek lumpur ke dalam gaharu. Ini kaya, warna tanah, menenangkan, dan aroma eksotik telah dicipta oleh perfumers purba India untuk menangkap bau hujan monsun yang pertama ke atas tanah.” Apa nota ini menawarkan maka adalah ambery, basenote sedikit pedas terhadap mana nota yang lain lain. Walaupun yang florals, Lotus dan neroli, hadir, tidak Lylli Bleu minyak wangi bunga…Saya menggambarkan ia sebagai oriental. Kejutan kedua ialah bahawa Lylli Bleu tidak benar-benar kelihatan seperti minyak wangi semulajadi – vibe keseluruhannya serta unjuran lebih selaras dengan bau massa pasaran pereka. Bagi sesiapa yang menghargai kemenyan, chai atau kayu manis / aroma resin, yang satu ini pasti untuk menyenangkan…absolutely stunning.

Pembikin Wangian: Justine Kren, http://www.thescenteddjinn.com/

satu

Coco-Saffron Koktel – Essaouira

Pereka bentuk Description: “Elemen Saya memilih adalah Bumi, tetapi ringkas saya adalah pantai. Pantai adalah titik pertemuan unsur-unsur. Ia adalah Bumi dan Angin Air menjana dan Matahari dengan api yang merupakan induk dari gerakan-gerakan mereka semua melaksanakan. , Saya anggap ini berjalan ringkas di pantai Essaouira, di Maghribi, pada bulan Januari. Tiga hari saya menghabiskan masa di tempat itu diisi saya dengan sihir, keamanan dan kasih sayang dalam apa-apa cara yang saya tidak akan lupa. Ia adalah Berbere Tahun Baru 2964 dan ada kegembiraan di mana-mana. Pada pagi pertama kami pergi berjalan di pantai dan saya dapat mencium analitikal semua haruman yang datang dari Alam pada ketika itu. Angin sejuk pagi, membawa bau Laut, udara penuh camar terbang, itu Labrador hitam yang berjalan setelah burung, unta yang bau jadi berpeluh dan bersahaja, bahawa gadis dengan kaki indah semua tatooed dengan inai….But I was thirsty and could only think of a drink very common on Brazilian beaches: coconut water, and that thought was making me obssessive company while I was coming and going on the long long beach. “There isn’t any coconut water here! This beach would be perfect if there was.” To my surprise, as soon as I arrived back in the town, there was a very welcoming orange and grapefruit juice stall where I went so many times to quench my thirst from then on. In the souk we had so much fruit, ate so many prawns and fried fish! In the street market, many colors: carrots, huge artichokes, tomatoes, oranges, pink onions, purple figs, pickled yellow lemons and olives of all colors filling the air with their perfumes.And all the crafts, like new clothing, necklaces, berbere goodies, carpets smelling of wool, herb doctors and mastery woodwork like those boxes made of olive trees, cedar or thuya so deliciously smelly. And we had a loving time, full of hugs and good feelings. This is what I intended to translate in my perfume that smell like Earth, but also smells like sea and breeze and is warm like the sun on that winter day. In the composition of the perfume I chose an array of Moroccan oils and many scents from there. But not all of them. Basenotes are of Malaysian Khao Yai oudh, cedarwood and thuya. Lavender, blue chamomila and sunny saffron as heart note, that gives that scent of maritime breeze, but I had my coconut obssessively present, so I put some drops of massoia bark and coconut scent came in. Needless to say that the sourire of this perfume is made of sweet orange, grapefruit and sicilian lemon. It starts with the orange, goes to coconut, then to beach and wind, and fresh fish(!) and finishes in a warm loving kiss. It is presented for the Salon gradated as Eau de Toilette but you can add more alcohol in it to make it open its arms and fly high like a seagull..”

Nota: “Orange, limau gedang, rosewood, lemon (Sicilian), lavender, blue chamomile, agarwood crude oil, massoia, coconut absolute (maison), Khao Yai Malaysian Oudh, Atlas cedar, Thuya Saffron tincture.”

Jenis Air: This one was tough as images of Morocco’s Essaouira Beach sufficiently inspired me and I considered not even coming up with a metaphor. But there was something missing – what about the coconut? Not exactly indigenous to Morocco, the coconut note is the key to Essaouira’s (minyak wangi) success. Saya tahu bahawa koktail kelapa tidak tepat menggambarkan imej kuno utara Afrika dan pengembaraan, tetapi lebih pada itu di bawah…

Bottom line: Mengapa tiada siapa yang terfikir untuk berkahwin kunyit kelapa dan kemudian mencampurkan dengan limau, hutan, dan oudh? Perfumer Ane Walsh is a genius, dan saya tidak buang perkataan tersebut kira-kira selalu. Pertama sekali, kami semua telah ditangkis oleh nota kelapa sintetik bahawa Berasap penyegar udara atau minyak berjemur. Ane kononnya buatan sendiri kelapa mutlak mengelakkan rujukan ini sepenuhnya. Seterusnya, aroma kelapa baru-baru ini telah agak kemarahan – Creed Virgin Pulau Air, SJP NYC, Menangani, dll – lagi tiada seorang pun daripada mereka telah benar-benar menarik perhatian saya kerana akhir begitu banyak sehingga berbau sama ada terlalu manis, terlalu pasi, atau terlalu, dan, koktel-ish. Jadi, I was downright blown away when first testing Essaouira without having read Ane’s notes or brief. I immediately recognized the coconut but there was something else there that was familiar, something that indeed evoked a Berber-esque vibe, and that note would be the saffron. Although not taking center stage, the saffron is definitely omnipresent and I wonder if Ane didn’t in fact make a tincture of saffron to use as the base alcohol for Essaouira. Walau bagaimanapun, the blast of citruses certainly aids the tropical feel (think Rio) while the oudh (and I should explain that this is NO way an oudh scent), cedar, chamomile and other earthier notes aids the Moorish seaside feel (think Casablanca). Although not quite as exotic, I think a coco-saffron cocktail might actully be the most appropriate metaphor for Essaouira…dan memandangkan ia adalah semulajadi, Saya bimbang jika saya boleh minum. Afterall, ADALAH dibuat alkohol!

Perfumers: Ané Walsh, http://ladraodearomas.blogspot.com

satu

Lihat lain aroma ulasan zaman purba saya dengan mengklik HERE.

satu

Meninggalkan komen di bawah dan beritahu kami yang tafsiran air anda paling tertarik untuk peluang anda untuk memenangi sampel bau yang sangat! Membeli pek sampel semua 5 aroma untuk $28 atau $35 (di luar Amerika Syarikat) di sini.

satu

Nota: Fresh accord, meningkat, bunga limau, Melur, musk accord. Molinard.com

100ml Eau de Toilette Spray: Perihal $22 daripada Google Shopping.

Bottom line: I think by now most readers know that I’m obsessed with the scent of Jasmine petals. Ever on the search for the perfect jasmine aroma, I scour the internet hoping to find new and interesting fragrances. While visiting Parfum1.com a few weeks back, I browsed through the Molinard scents – Molinard is one of those fragrance houses whose scents are always dependably “pleasant”, and whose prices are always ridiculously low. Being the proud owner of not one, not two, but count’em 8 Molinard fragrances at this point, I’m always open to adding a few more to my collection. I’m not sure why I never tried this one before…maybe its because my jasmine fetish is fairly new (before jasmine I had been obsessed with orange blossom, and before orange blossom, it was sandalwood…nowadays my obsessions include iris, nilam, and saffron). Upon first shpritz, Molinard’s jasmine is fairly straightforward, a decent floral aroma with the faintest hint of animalic indole. This one compared to Donna Karan’s Jasmine Essence, though not quite as pure nor light. An hour into the wearing, the orange blossom appears giving the scent a “potpourri” atau “drawer sachet” berasa. Sebenarnya, it kind of reminded me of the drydowns of Hermes’ 24 Faubourg or Montale’s Jasmine Full. I don’t really get much rose or musk from this one, and that’s fine by me. For a whopping 8 bucks, this was worth every penny – I’d buy it for that blue bottle alone (Molinard has now retired these beautiful bottles for an incredibly tacky, purple, deco-style bottle – click the Molinard link above to view it).If you’re looking for a jasmine that’s slightly more complex than a pure soliflore, this might be perfect for you. If you want something avant-garde, Molinard Jasmin likely won’t deliver. But hey, for that price, if you really didn’t love it, you could always spray your drawers!

Ia sentiasa amazes saya bahawa gedung menjangka pelanggan untuk membeli wangian tanpa membekalkan mereka dengan sampel untuk menguji. Ini seolah-olah sengaja menarik bulu mata pelanggan, dia, pada, hidung. Jika anda telah dibakar oleh buta membeli terlalu banyak, anda mungkin suka untuk menguji produk wangi beberapa kali sebelum membeli. Dan saya fikir ini masuk akal. Saya sendiri pagi seorang pembeli yang buta (tabiat dahsyat, bahawa) tetapi ia adalah satu amalan yang saya tidak mengesyorkan kepada mereka yang kurang obses daripada saya. Jadi sekarang biar saya beritahu anda cerita serba sedikit tentang La Bella Venezia…