PROLOG

A sada nekoliko puta sam pokušao moje ruke i nos, na što moja mirisna preparata…ne, Ne bih udostojati da sugeriše da su parfemi. Na primjer, Sjećam se oko dobi od 9 ili 10 vragolasto koristeći jedan od moje bake inzulin šprice za izdvajanje i miješati zajedno uzorak bočice različitih mirisa; Otkrio sam da je taj proces rijetko je dovelo do bilo kakve mirisne uspjeha, ali nije me dovesti do velike uzemljenje od ljutitih roditelja. I nitko, Grandma didn’t re-use the syringe after my decanting experiment.

Tijekom svoje srednje škole godina imao sam profesora glasovira koji je također aromaterapeutkinja. Nakon učenja o svojoj opsjednutosti s mirisom, ona s ljubavlju dijeli svoju cijelu kolekciju svih-prirodnih parfema ulja sa mnom. “Samo stavite nekoliko kapi u lonac kipuće vode i kuhinja će biti ispunjen arome,” pojasnila. Dva ili tri tjedna kasnije, Saznao sam da su ti eterična ulja su malo lakše uklopiti od završenih robna mirisa, ali da su oni također nude sasvim drugačiju estetiku. Nakon nekoliko obiteljskih lonaca počeli misteriozno napraviti špageti okus poput pačulija i vetivera, my mother instructed me to politely return the oils to my teacher.

U dobi 16 Pokušao sam ponovno kao posvetu na bliskog prijatelja koji je volio miris koliko sam. To je jedan sadrži puno Ralph Lauren Safari za žene i tko zna što još. Samo nešto uspješniji od mojih prvih pokušaja, ali jednako tako grozno, Naučila sam da parfemi su složeni kreacije koje ne nužno samo “dolaze zajedno” nakon nekoliko kapi ovog i malo da. Oko tog vremena počeo sam raditi na Wicks-n-Sticks u lokalnom centru i otkrio čari tamjana, svijeće, naslovnica mirisi, itd.. My need to blend was superceded by my infatuation with lightbulb rings and scented wax chips.

Prije nekoliko godina, nakon primitka lijepa parfumerija kit od PerfumeLab.com, Sam obnovio moj interes u self-miješanje i ozbiljno stvorio svoj vlastiti parfem. Zanimljivo, Sam ponovno Guerlain L'Heure Bleue je čak i bez znajući! Bergamot, narandžin cvijet, iris, sandalovine i vanilije…bilo je zanimljivo kako pojedini navodi da sam toliko volio stvorio nešto tako ikonast, so familiar and so beautiful when added together.

Nedavno sam bio znači sjesti s nekim parfem-stvaranje proizvoda uživati ​​u nekim eksperimentiranje, No, iako su moje umjetničke i kreativne energije inspiriran mirisom, Znam da sam sooooo mnogo naučiti kada je riječ o stvarnim procesima miješanje i popravljajući i za sada, prefer to channel those energies into wearing and writing rather than composing.

SASTANAK

Kao hvala vam poklon za reviziju je 2011 Vrli novi Mirisi stvaranje, Karmin, sve-prirodni parfem o kojem sam pisao…

“Wow wow i dvostruko. Moje ruke-dolje omiljena deset uzoraka je poslao k meni za Vrli novi miris projekta, Carmine je miris koji je zahtijevao najviše pažnje od mene; to znači da sam zapravo bio je nosio! Ovo priznanje korištenje je vjerojatno najveći kompliment mogu darovati s obzirom koliko rijetko sam kupiti a kamoli koristiti prirodne parfeme.”

…parfimer Christi Meshell, osnivač Washingtona Kuća matriarch, poslao mi je otkriće kit – neki uzorci miris i tamjan češeri. Nakon nekoliko godina učenja o, eksperimentiranje sa pregledom i prirodne parfeme, Ja sigurno mogu reći da sam radije miješane medije i sintetičkih zahvaljujući svojoj dugovječnosti i sillage as obzirom da je takav estetski je ono što sam odrastao uživanje. Christi rad, međutim, je iznenađujuće da, iako ne sasvim sličan to masovno tržište sintetiku, Karmin & njezine šume usmjerene Alfa imali su više slične osobnosti neke od Bliskog istoka i indijskog Attars i ulja sam otkrio i volio. Ne samo da su joj skladbe udara, but the entire vibe was unique.

Nekoliko mjeseci kasnije dobila sam uzorak Christi-a Amber život i još jedna mala vrećica od tamjana. Prvo neka mi spomenuti da je čak i prije nego što sam otvorio kutiju kartonsku dostave sam mogao mirisati nešto ukusno potječe iz paketa. While Amber život (kliknite za čitanje moj pregled) je još jedan uspjeh za Meshell, to je bio miris brodskog okvir koji me je potpuno besmislen. Da li je sprej nešto postoji? Gdje je miris koji dolaze iz? I onda me pogodio. To je morao biti tamjan češeri. Zelena trava, neroli i sandalovinom. Ukupno magija!

Samo nekoliko dana kasnije, dok je još u Finskoj, Sam nazvao Christi joj reći koliko sam volio tamjan. “Može li mi parfem koji miriše kao da je?” I asked excitedly.

“To je parfem…Mogu koristiti moje osvježavanje mješavine za miris moj tamjan,” she explained.

“Hmmmm, dobro, Volio bih da se nose!”

Christi je sugerirao da je stvoriti miris za mene na temelju istog sastava kao i arome tamjana – naranče cvjetovi – “Ja sam planirao raditi s narančastim cvjetovima i to je savršen izgovor.”

POČETAK

Gotovo bunovan s uzbuđenjem da netko ide da me parfem, Počeo sam razmišljajući sve različite bilješke koje sam volio i obično smatra samo ono što upravo sam htjela uključiti u mom ugovoriti mirisa. Badem? Tonka? Labdanum? Galbanum? Sezam? Posljednji put parfimer stvorio miris za mene na temelju popisa omiljenih bilješke, Rezultat je bio grub, DIS-harmonika nered. But the goal there was to playfully see what would happen if we blended my favorites rather than a methodical planning process for a well-developed perfume.

Christi je proces mnogo lakše prvo mi slati broj uzoraka bočica, jednokrevetne bilješke stopljen s narančastom cvijetu. Na primjer, u odgovoru na sporazumu jasmina sambac sam napisao, “Svidjelo mi se, iako moć jasmina pomalo je zasjenilo neroli; ali ja sam veliki fan jasmin pa je ne čudi da sam reagirala tako pozitivno; glave prema “prilično ladica vrećica” teritorij ipak bez dubljih basenotes.” Ona mi je poslao pored nekoliko prototipova punih skladbi, ali u tom trenutku, nešto je nestalo – ukupni vizija, točka inspiracije, Fokus…real-world scent memory.

Brzo napomena o cvjetova naranče i Marlen: Odrastao sam u sunčanoj južnoj Floridi, jahanje konja nakon škole na farmama koja graniči naranče lugova. Budući da je zemlja agruma, to nije neuobičajeno za Floride turisti da će naići na narančasto-tematske cvijeta proizvode u svakoj suvenirnici…cvijet naranče med, cvijet naranče parfem, cvijet naranče mliječ, itd.. Mislim da miris je bio samo potpuno drugi prirode na mene, dio mirisnom krajoliku djetinjstva. Iako nisam posve mogu staviti moj prst na njemu, Volim citrusy slatkoće i kremast, gotovo praškastih basenote od naranče cvjetovi. Yikes, čitajući te riječi jedna će biti iznimno teško razumjeti zaljubljenosti, ali zaljubljenost ipak je. Za lijep kulturno-povijesni pregled od naranče cvatu u parfumeriji check out this veliki članak u CaFleureBon.

TRIP

Baš kao što smo počeli raditi na ugovoriti miris krajem ožujka / početkom travnja, Sam uzeo putovanje u južnoj Španjolskoj za tjedan dana, stavljajući me u takvim poznatih Andalucian gradovima Granadi, Cordoba i Sevilla. Znao sam o nadmoći cvijet naranče stabala u ovoj regiji i nije mi fige da moji dani mogli biti popunjena s mirisnih bijelih latica pada s neba. Nažalost, prilikom dolaska u Granada, moja prva stanica na 4 grad putovanje, Zaključio sam da je klima bila je još samo malo na hladnom strane nakon frustrirajuće gledajući u cvijet-manje stabala. Ali Španjolska je zemlja kontrasta i tako kratko putovanje autobusom zapadno Cordoba, s mnogo manje nadmorske visine i toplije klime, dala cvijet prekrivenim nogostupa, cvijet punjeni stabla i da, čak i bijele latice padaju s neba. Što je nevjerojatno ushićenje da hoda uz obalu rijeke u srednjovjekovnom španjolskom gradu na ćudljivog, overcast day with orange blossom scenting the air.

Moj sljedeći grad nudi bolju vrijeme, bicikla u nedjelju ujutro vožnja, a još više narančasti cvjetovi! Ono što me stvarno impresionirao u Sevilli je da ne samo da mi je dočekan s vječnom blaženstvu Blossom, ali kao što je Semana Santa (Veliki tjedan), mnoge crkve i processionals su paljenje tamjana od tradicionalnih, tamjan, sandalovo drvo & smirnu vrsta. Zamislite moju potpunu radost u pronalaženju takve slatko-mirisne grad! Štoviše, nakon nekoliko jaunts u lokalnim trgovinama i parfema na ispraznila novčanik, Imao sam u mom ruksaku ne jednom, ne dvije, ali četiri različite Španjolski-made Narančin cvijet mirisi s raznim likovima…ali nitko od njih nije imao bilo kakve dima ili drveta bilješke. I to kad je hit me….za moju ugovoriti mirisom sam htjela nešto što se poslužio kako Narančin cvijet i tamjan. Htjela sam svoj miris miris poput Semana Santa u Sevilli!

Miris

Čim sam se vratio u Finskoj, Sam e-poštom Christi joj reći o mom cvijet naranče manifestaciju i novi fokus. Igrali smo se s oko ideja za ime i Christi je došao gore sa om – cvijet naranče za Marlen. Zatim smo razmišljali što boja kako bi bocu….jednostavan – naranča. Konačno, Christi predložio je pojačalo do šume i dim da mi je i volio u jednoj od svojih prototipa mirisa:

I was wondering if your time in Seville would produce inspiration………tako drago čuti da sam na pravom putu. Više dim, više šuma, dobio je! Bouya Agarwood (održivi) is something “novi” that I have been enjoying playing with and was thinking of adding to the blend; Vaše povratne informacije potvrđuje. Bouya is smoky, igra vrlo dobro uz neroli i dodaje novu dimenziju u bazu kao nju obveznica na sandalovine dodavanja drugog sloja drvene bogatstva, without overriding the leathery/incense notes of the cypriol. I like the bouya since it is void of the “isključen” notes that other oud’s can throw off as they develop on the skin. I believe this agarwood will add complexity, dubina i što je najvažnije, the “jedinstven potpis” da će učiniti ovaj cvijet naranče stvaranje stand out od ostatka! Bouya is rarely used as it can be hard to tame so our combination of notes will be truly unique. Više, Volim sadrži pod-birane aromatske, and bouya is sort of a “crvene glave pastorak” što se tiče agarwoods ići. Često se koristi za krivotvoriti druge bujone. I think we can give it a chance to shine here.

To je smiješno kako se sve to dođe zajedno, tako brzo i kako je svaki dio projekta, naravno pozdravi drugima: narančaste boje kao boca je ne-brainer s obzirom na fokus, ali kada je u paru s pismima “OM” to sugerira istočnu duhovnost, savršena za moje budističkih sklonostima. Pakao, “OM” sama je takva moćna ideja! I da bih trebao prinošenje ideje dima nakon Španjolske, i da treba upariti i sa OM, ideje meditacije i budizma…dobro, to samo čini tako ispravnim! Rezultat, Mislim, je serendiptious uparivanje od istočnih i zapadnih koncepata i aluzije, savršena za mene s obzirom koliko dugo sam živio i putovao između Azije, Europe and North America.

Moj ugovoriti parfem proces je brzo, bezbolan i apsolutno divan, uglavnom zbog vodstvom i entuzijazmu Christi. Smatram moj miris biti potpun uspjeh, a ne mogu čekati da Vam reći više o stvarnoj arome…Stay tuned!

Ostavite komentar ispod nas govori o svojim iskustvima ugovoriti, ili možda vaša ljubav prema narančastim cvjetovima i tamjan, za svoju priliku da dobije uzorak doma matriarch u OM, dostavljaju bilo gdje u svijetu, besplatno!

Pregleda: 24894

Profesionalce: Potpuno drugačiji odvesti na kožnom arome – ni slatko ni mastan, nego cvjetni tinged, osuši, leather note that pays homage to the classic chypres of yesteryear..

Cons: Previše suh za moj ukus i previše ciste i oakmoss. Nadao sam se za nešto slađe, smokier, i više istaknutih naranče cvijeta bilješci; Niche price tag.

Me podsjeća: Bandit Robert Piguet Eau de Toilette; Ivoire de Balmain; Versace L’Homme.

Bilješke: “Valencia naranče ulje, pettigrain Paraquay i svjetlucavu narančastu cvijeće Tunis spajaju s Jasmin Egiptu i perunika apsolutna. Ovaj miris počiva na bogatoj bazi kože s breze katrana, Španjolski ciste, hrast mahovina i pačuli.” Saks.com

Dizajner opis: “Cuir d'Oranger je temeljito podsjeća prošlih vremena, je neobičan, luksuzan i miriše tradicije. Ona ima zelenu mediteransku notu s Fleur d'Oranger kako bi spriječila kožne note postaje previše suha ili praškastih. To miriše ukusna gospoda, ili kako biste željeli da ih namirisati. Izlučujući stil, Miris je uklopljena za šik i sofisticiran.” MillerHarris.com

Broj puta testiran: 5 puta iz 2 different sample vials sent to me by friends.

Broj sprejevi prijavili za ovaj pregled: 6 ili tako dabs sigurnosnu ruku, zapešća, and neck.

Miris Snaga: Eau de Parfum

Razvoj: (Linearan / Prosjek / Kompleks)Poput mnogih miris Miller Harris, Cuir d'Oranger seli iz opojno vrhu i srednje bilješke izravno na oakmoss. The floral notes are barely perceptible on my skin and the leather aroma becomes nearly undetectable as the scent dries down.

Dugovječnost: (Kratak / Prosjek / Dugotrajna) 4-6 hours.

Probuditi: (Little / Prosjek / Lot): Bio sam malo osvaja na prvi, but then the fragrance quickly calmed to average.

Gdje ga mogu kupiti? $145 SAD, 3.4 oz EDP sprej, TulipShe.com.

Pakiranje: Ravne, square bottle with black signature Miller Harris botanical print in a shiny black box with botanical relief.

Bottom Line: Prvi put kad sam pokušao ovaj miris, Bio sam zaljubljen jer je nakon uzimanja mirisa nakon mirisa (kao neusporedivo Knize Deset, su Lutens čudo Cuir Mauresque, itd.), Bio sam iznenađen Cuir d'Oranger's pripit tonova. Zapravo, evo što sam prvotno napisao u kolovozu 2005:

To je krajnji Miller Harris miris i nalazi se na vrhu moj popis želja. Ako Rochas Lui bio nagovještaj onoga što bi se moglo učiniti s narančastom cvijetu i pačuli, Miller Harris ga vodi korak dalje i daje nam miris la Caron. Ovo je Narcisse Noir bez sandalovine i zamijenjen sa mastan kožni bilješci, drveni breza i zelena patchouli.The miris otvara s tuniskog naranče cvjetovi, ali “otvaranje” nije sasvim točno…cijeli sastav je prisutan, pjenušava i egzotično. Kao miris napreduje, nagovještaj bijelih latica jasmina može biti otkriven, dodavanjem isijavanje dubinu miris kao to morphs od cvjetni do kože, šume i trave. Baza je magija…i suptilno….ovo nije primarno koža miris, ali kao ime implicira, ravnoteža između kože i cvjetni…Ravnoteža je stalno prisutan kao i svaki od baznih nota otkriva, suzne svježinu od cvjetne note odjekuju diljem. Oakmoss i breze dodati lijep dodir zemljani, pozivom na pamet drydown od Terre de Bois, pogotovo kad pačuli stigne…iako iznimno subtlely.After o 45 zapisnik, miris je ublažen, a ja sam otišao negdje između Narcisse Noir i Tabac Blond, iako neka je to lice, one su dvije masterpeices u parfumeriji, ali ako bi mogao zamisliti svoj lovechild, Cuir d'Oranger je to!

Dobro, ovdje sam 7 godina kasnije, a ja sam prilično Stisnuo da sam bio tako pun hvale. To ne znači da Cuir d'Oranger je loš miris, ali ne mogu naći da je nakon više wearings, postoji nešto nedostaje ovdje. U potrazi na moj prvi, a možda i nešto prerano pregleda, Pitam se gdje je iskra u mom pjenušava komentaru nestao. Nekoliko puta sam testirao miris u posljednjih nekoliko dana, koža je sve prije nego mastan i cvjetnih ali ništa zračenja. Štoviše, ovu recenziju inspiriran je član kolega Basenotes koji komentirali da su nekoliko puta je uzorkovano miris, Miris činilo se da jedinstvena na svaki nosi. Je li moguće da se nešto promijenilo u sastavu od 2005?

Ono što sam najviše osjetiti dok je pisao ovu recenziju sedam godina kasnije je želja za čašom vode – Cuir d'Oranger tako osuši ovaj put da sam ostavio žedan i pržena. Da naranča u pitanju bila slađa, punije cvijet naranče i koža više sueded, mastan napomena, Ja bi nesumnjivo biti sretniji. Po svim sredstvima pokušati ovaj jedan ako cvijet naranče, koža, ili oakmoss intrigira što. Za moj ukus, to je bio samo previše od oakmoss i daleko premalo od drugih, especially as the scent dried on my skin.

Vjerujem miris je ukinut jer se više ne kotira na MillerHarris.com web stranici niti na Saks.com. Možda su sastojci bili teško izvora pouzdano ili dosljedno i to je razlog zašto je mirisala toliko različiti razne puta sam ga testirani. U svakom slučaju, I’m glad I got the chance to sample this creation as I typically enjoy perfumer Lyn Harris’s compositions and look forward to seeing how Miller Harris might interpret a leather note nowadays.

Kao što sam živio s ovom uzorku za 7 godina, to bi moglo biti vrijeme da prođe ga na…tko ga želi??? Ostavite komentar ispod!

Bilješka: Nisam mogao naći veliki sliku Cuir d'Oranger i tako koristiti sliku Feuilles de Tabac umjesto…

Ostavite komentar na kraju izvornog pregled za vaše priliku osvojiti novi 1oz bocu Elie Saab LE parfem, dostavljaju bilo gdje u svijetu, besplatno!

Istinita priča: To je moj veliki susret s ljudima na COTY-ju. Sjedim u jednom od tih stolica koje se ne bi moglo biti udoban u. Preblizu poda; back inclined too far. I shift, and then shift again, trying to look cool. I’ve got on the slim-fit Levis, black leather army boots, stainless steel chain and Buddhist beads. My head is freshly shaved and I’m wearing Euphoria for Men. A woman sits across the lobby from me, sensibly on a flat cushioned bench. She must be more comfortable than I am. She’s busy on her cell phone, but our eyes meet.

I shift again. What the…?

An aroma catches my attention. I showered. I used deodorant. That couldn’t possibly be me. Could it be the woman over there? She looks at me and smiles…still carrying on, chatting away on her cell phone.

I’m surrounded by small nooks built into the walls with bottles of Davidoff and Nina Ricci thoughtfully displayed. There’s a cocktail table with magazines, and a staircase ascends just a few feet away to a second level. Behind me is a conference room. A number of people are beginning to gather and I imagine them meeting to discuss the name of the next Sarah Jessica Parker fragrance:

“We have to be tougher this time,” demands the husky man in the Banana Republic chinos.

“But SJP is demanding that we give her more autonomy,” offers the tall blonde in the Dress Barn ensemble.

“Screw autonomy,” interrupts the Indian woman, “this is a branding issue!”

U redu, so I didn’t actually hear anything other than a comment from a disturbingly plain looking gentleman about grabbing a cup of coffee. I dismiss the gathering altogether as I shift in my torture-chair and catch a whiff of that odor again. I casually try to cover the movement of my nose towards my pits, hoping no one will notice. If this odor persists, I may have to abscond to the restroom again because in 5 mintues I’ll be meeting with the people from Calvin, Kenneth, Nina, J Lo, and Sarah…I can’t go in there if this stench is coming from me.

The woman on the cell phone exits the lobby and I’m alone again. I lean forward, trying to look relaxed. I rest my left foot across my right leg and look down for a moment. The stench is more pronounced.

Could it…?

Is that…?

Where is that…?

It’s my shoe!!!

I look around to make sure no one is watching me before more closely examining my left boot. There’s something white stuck to my shoe. It looks like, dear Lord…

…a humongous booger!

“Na, ne, ne, the Perfume Critic doesn’t have a giant piece of mucus on his shoe!” Mislim. And furthermore, even New York snot couldn’t be that foul!

It smells like, dobro, it smells like…Swiss cheese.

“This IS Manhattan,” I ponder. I had just had lunch with the Karens from Sniffapalooza and had walked through the Village, past a thousand restaurants and it’s totally possible-

“Marlen?” a voice asks.

“Da?” I look up from my shoe as if I had just gotten caught picking my nose.

“Sara will be with you in a few minutes.”

It’s the receptionist, and I think I dodged that one. I don’t think she saw me inspecting the alien on my shoe. I’ve gotta get this….guck…off me. There’s no way I can talk about the second coming of Puig with swiss cheese-smelling, skanky, booger-looking goop on my shoe.

I reach into my bag, grab one of the handywipes a friend from Athens sent me (Greece, not Georgia) and casually wipe my hands. I look around to make sure no one can see me before reaching towards my toes. Safe! I remove the nastiness and wrap it in the handywipe as if it were a piece of toxic waste, a smushed spider, a…

Suddenly, the conference room empties. I’m seated in an odd position with a wet-nap in hand, leaning over my shoe. What must this look like?

I try to resume a dignified position, hoping that I’ve been discrete. My first introduction to one of the world’s major fragrance companies and I’m spending my lobby-time wiping ripe New York street residue off my shoe.

I look around for a trash bin, deposit the used handywipe, and return to the….uncomfortable…

“Not this time,” Mislim, “I’m sitting on the cushioned bench this time.”

An attractive brunette walks down the stairs above me and upon reaching the last step, swings round the banister and calls out, “Marlen?”

It’s Sara. We introduce ourselves as Sara explains who we’ll be meeting.

“Do you smell that?” she asks.

“Oh no…” I worry.

“It smells like…like”

Here it comes, “I’m so sorry, I-

“Smells like…”

Oh no! She can smell it!

“…Euphoria for Men,” blurts out Sara.

“WHAT?” I shout silently. I’m stunned and relieved at the same time. “U, umm, I sprayed on some Euphoria just a few minutes ago,” U
reply.

“Smells wonderful!”

“Hvala,” I say, with gratitude to all that is holy for her not saying “Swiss”.

Moral of the story: When heading to an important meeting in “the city”, always make sure to check your shoes upon exiting the elevator and before stepping into the office. You never know just WHAT will cling to your left foot on the way from the taxi to the front door!

Vi ćete ovako ako vam se sviđa: Duhan, Cipar, leather fragrances, Fresh Cannabis Santal.

Profesionalce: So incredibly different from most chypres thanks to Dawn’s light hand with the oakmoss – no grassy, soapy drydown here; absolutely no “prirodni parfem” vibru.

Cons: I wish the longevity was a bit better.

Bilješke: "U visokim notama: Bergamot, Blackberry, Clary Sage, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Neroli Srednje note: Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Karanfil, Chinese Geranium, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Med, Marijuana Accord, Orris Root Base notes: Brown Oakmoss, Castoreum, Incense Notes, Leather, Peru Balsam, Tobacco Absolute” dshperfumes.com

Me podsjeća: Le Smoking is a throwback to men’s fragrances of the mid-80′s – think Tuscany Uomo and Santos de Cartier…or even further back to the classic chypres of the late 60′s and early 70′s such as Rabanne Nuit, Ivoire de Balmain, itd.. It’s tone, međutim, is a bit lighter than all of these.

Dizajner opis: “The Tuxedo for a woman was revolutionary and avant-garde at the time that YSL began introducing the style into his collection. Inspired somewhat by the smoking jacket and women’s liberation, the Tuxedo was a continuous muse for every subsequent collection right until the last. “Le Smoking”, named after the first Tuxedo design, is a sophisticated green chypre fragrance based of course on the Blond Tabac (fine cigarette) note as well as the new ‘marijuana’ cigarette and Moroccan incense. Created for Denver Art Museum and the only North American showing of the Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective Exhibit. This collection not only chronicles YSL’s long and wildly creative career from his years at Dior to his finale in 2002 but takes inspiration from specifically chosen garment pieces in the show that perfectly illustrate the artistic collaboration between fashion, culture and perfume.” dshperfumes.com

Broj puta testiran: 3 puta

Broj sprejevi prijavili za ovaj pregled: 2 sprays on the back of my hand, from a sample sent to me by the perfumer.

Miris Snaga: Eau de Parfum

Razvoj: (Linearan / Prosjek / Kompleks) Le Smoking is seamlessly blended and though it moves from a bright neroli & citrus opening to warm, ambery basenotes, the core of the composition never really shifts – duhan, marijuana and leather are always at the heart.

Dugovječnost: (Kratak / Prosjek / Dugotrajna) Trajao je oko 2-3 HRS na koži; I wish it packed a bit more punch for a longer period of time. Although, being somewhat understated, I imagine this one would be easier to wear in hot weather than some of the powerhouse classics. Zanimljivo, a couple of times I thought Le Smoking had disappeared completely only to find myself wondering “what’s that delicious smell?”…this one likes to play hide and seek!

Probuditi: (Little / Prosjek / Lot) Slightly less than most chypres that I’ve tried.

Gdje ga mogu kupiti? Get a set of all 6 mirisa (Ligne Trapéze, The Beat Look, Le Pušenje, Euphorisme d’Opium, La Vie en Rose, and Ma Plus Belle Histoire d’Amour) u 5 ml flasks for $90 SAD dshperfumes.com; 10ml EDP spray $55 SAD dshperfumes.com

Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Napomena o ambalaži: Simple rectangular glass bottle with silver top and label.

Bottom Line: An homage from one master to another, Le Smoking was my hands down favorite of Dawn’s collection created for the Denver Art Museum’s YSL retrospective. Euphorisme is Dawn’s take on Opium while La Vie en Rose is her take on Paris and Beat Look is her take on Y. Ligne Trapeze is a grand aldehydic-floral-oriental with stunning iris highlights and Ma Plus Belle is an airy white floral focused around linden and muguet.

If you haven’t already been introduced to Dawn’s work, you’re missing out on an icon in American perfumery. Along with perfumers like Mandy Aftel, Alexandra Balahoutis and Yosh Han, Dawn has created a much-appreciated wonderworld of handmade fragrance that is as much about the artistry and imagination behind the aroma as the aroma itself. Following Dawn’s work is kind of like following a favorite singer/songwriter who continually and inspiredly experiments with different genres. Perhaps Dawn is my Joni Mitchell of scent?

U svakom slučaju, as chypres and I never really get along, likely due to the dry and bitter soapiness of the oakmoss (and I also have problems with tobacco scents for the same reason), I was a bit surprised to fall so deeply in love with Dawn’s creation. Despite the complexity of the composition, Le Smoking has a singular character, not unlike the aroma that greets the nose at the opening of a filled humidor. But what really gets me going is the vanillic sweetness at the drydown that lingers and lingers, so unlike many of the scents it reminds me of who become far too dry for my tastes.

Uistinu, Le Smoking as a natural perfume feels as if it could have come from an equivalent niche house like L’Artisan or Caron. Now if only Dawn could create an extrait version that retained Le Smoking’s golden tones just a little bit longer….and if you love chypres, check out my review of Dawn’s 2011 puštanje, Pandora.

Leave a comment below for your chance to receive samples from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s YSL collection, dostavljaju bilo gdje u svijetu, besplatno!

O parfimer: Pratim razvoj parfimer Emma Leina rad u posljednjih nekoliko godina i sada sam oduševljen da konačno imaju priliku pisati o svojim kreacijama. Zajedno s poslovnim partnerom Robertom Fleurage Luxford, Emma je imao osjećaj da je “Velika umjetnost parfumeriji je misssing nešto. Među sve lijepe ambalaže i masa marketinga moderni parfem kupuju iskustvo je bio lišen bilo kakve pažnje osobnim potrebama. There was nowhere to go to find genuine guidance and information about this very personal, intimate product. Fragrance itself had changed and allergies were creating the opposite to the desired effect. Parfem je izgubio svoju senzualnost.” Njihov odgovor je bio stvoriti jednu od Australije jedini sve-prirodni parfem ateljeima koji nude niz mirisnih proizvoda iz ugovoriti parfeme na kupanje i tijelo proizvodi. Posjetite ih na adresi http://www.fleurage-natural-perfume.com.au.

*Nekoliko napomena o Fleurage parfema: Ponekad vrijeme je sve kad uzorkovanja parfem, a ja nažalost dobio Emmin uzoraka tijekom finskog proljeće, što naravno je zapravo australski jesen. Sam bio pining za toplije vrijeme, tako da sam napokon mogao dobiti natrag nosi moj zeleni, citrusa i morski mirisi kada prvi testiranje Mabon, Imp i Dandy i tako jesenja lik koji Emma pripisuje barem Mabon samo osjetio sve krivo mi. Sada kada sam imao nekoliko mjeseci da se igraju s tim mirisima, i sad da sam imao moj ispuniti sjevernoj hemisferi proljeće i ljeto, Ja sam već predviđaju da Mabon (uz Imp i kicoš) će postati strast dovodi do strogom racioniranje mojih velikodušnih uzoraka. Iako opisan kao “Parfem za muškarce”, Mislim da sve tri lako mogao biti unisex. I iako se prirodne parfeme, estetski, ali ništa tipično. U vremenima kvaliteta sastojaka i živin priroda skladbi me podsjeti da to nisu masovno tržište, robna mirisi…ali niti su oni djelo novak prirodnog pomastar…tu je razigrana misterij na radu u Emmin skladbi, and you can add me to her growing list of adoring fans.

a

Mabon

Dizajner opis: Oštri začini su obavijen u bogatim toplim šumama i koža zatim se opustite u dublje Smokey smola i zemljanih bilješke, Parfem za muškarce. Jesenja akord šumi, Zemlja i začini. Inspired by the seasonal harvest festival when the earth begins to rest and we gather the rewards of a fruitful spring and summer.

Bilješke: Baza: Pačuli, Mira, Vetiver; Srednji: Kardamon, Bay list, Mimosa; Vrh: Pimen, Papar

Me podsjeća: Vrlo definitivno moglo uklopiti u Comme des Garcons liniju mirisa…sve to začinio stvara referencu na originalni CDG miris, ali Mabon je glađe, softer and sweeter.

Bottom Line: Mabon je fascinantno sastav koji otkriva različite aspekte tijekom svog razvoja. Na puta ljekovitih, na drugi puta dimi, Mabon otvara kao hommage klasičnim bay rum colognes muškog mirisa povijesti. Na vrhu sastava mogu dobiti tangy piment i uvalu, i iznenađujuće suptilne papar (hvala bogu…papar zajedno s kim je moj najveći zastrašujuća miris napomena). Baza Mabon je upečatljiv sa svojim svjetlucavih od tamjana poput pačulija i smirnu. Hmmmm, sada da ja razmišljam o tome, Emma izgleda kao da su u braku dvije različite miris arhetipove – prošlost uvala rum Köln s današnjom tamjana skladu. Drydown je možda najupečatljiviji aspekt Mabon i gdje sam najviše osvaja svojim intrigantnim ljepote: U basenotes zasladiti i ja držati ček na popis bilješki za sandalovine, vanilije i benzoin, ali bez uspjeha…gdje je to slatkoća dolazi iz? Može li to biti smirnu i pačuli sama to? Dok CDG ide celer sjeme i papar na mojoj koži, Mabon ide na španjolskoj katedrali. Simply fascinating.

a

IMP

Dizajner opis: Rafal od limuna citrusa i tangy papra otvara gotovo odmah na srcu zelenih biljaka, šume i više citrusa – Parfem za muškarce. A green pepper chord around a heart of woods. Nestašni dječak unutar svih ljudi je Imp - usuđujući ih se upuštati svoju razigranu stranu. Deliciously wicked with the face of an angel.

Bilješke: Baza: Svibanj Chang, Blagovanj, Opoponax; Srednji: Ylang ylang, Bergamot, Neroli; Vrh: Papar, Lemongrass

Me podsjeća: Ja iskreno mogu reći da nikad nisam doživio ništa sasvim kao Imp. Da, broj poznatih bilješke su korišteni, ali ukupni učinak je zapanjujuće nepoznato!

Bottom Line: “Što je OVO?” moj nos i mozak potražnja. Toliko favorita ovdje – bergamot, paprika, neroli, opoponax…Hmmmm. Na prvi zadah, Imp osjeća blago, dobro, aromatherapeutic, ali vreba iza tih topnotes je intrigantna iako prolazne slasti, Sporazum koji podsjeća Caron je klasični Narcisse Noir zahvaljujući neroli i bergamot. Ja mogu vidjeti kako ime i aroma zapravo idu zajedno ovdje; s svibnja Chang nudi citrusni bušiti i izopa isporučio gotovo Minty rub, Imp je svijetla, tangy i razigran, ali ne znači čista, svjetlo ili jednostavno. Kao miris opušta, Ja sam podsjetio Gobin je Daude Biche dans L'Pelin ili Yves Rocher je Aztek, a to su čudne reference…zašto sam odjednom mirisna pelin pelin na drydown?

a

DANDY Boheme

Dizajner opis: Slatki metalni prah koji se potom otvara razvija suptilno u bogat biljni cvjetni i smiri konačno u toploj drvenastog animalic bilješci. Inspiriran stilski gospodina nekog sposobnog prošlosti. Velvet i brokat odijela i čipke obloge košulje - blistav, dapper and individual.

Bilješke: Baza: Sandalovo drvo, Tamjan, Labdanum, Oakmoss; Srednji: Tuberoza, Muškatni oraščić, Jasmin Sambac; Vrh: Bergamot. Francuski Lavanda

Me podsjeća: Opet, osim jasmina ili tuberoze Attar, there is really nothing to which I can compare this jasmine/tuberose/sandalwood blend.

Parfimer, Emma Lea

Bottom Line: Budući da sam opsjednut jasmina i nedavno je pretvoren u tuberoze ljubavnik, Dandy mogli su napravljene posebno za mene u vidu. Također sam nedavno postao zaintrigiran s lavandom, nakon godina snažnog odbojnosti i oduvijek volio sandalovine i labdanum…ništa slatko, Woody i smolni. Dakle, za mene, Dandy je prilično savršena. Najprirodniji mirisna od tri, vjerojatno zbog sveukupne vizije mirisa i sastojaka, Dandy je slatko, uniseks cvjetni da je zapravo vrlo “prilično” i bijeli cvjetni ljubavnik san. Dok je u Mabon, drydown je zvijezda, Dandy je sve o svojoj topnote skladu. Otišli su fekalne karakteristike jasmina; otišli su voštana, praškaste tonovi tuberoze; i otišli su često mesni rubovi lavande. Te tri note su pomiješan lijepo i istaknuti sve volim o njima. Ostale napomene u sastavu nesumnjivo doprinijeti cjelokupnom uspjehu, ali nikako se na pozornicu na isti način te topnotes učiniti. Ako Mabon je duhovit, dimi kameleon i Imp je zelena misterij, then Dandy is a familiar fop with a blossom in his vest.

Ostavite komentar ispod i bilo podijeliti svoje iskustvo s Fleurage parfema ili nam reći koji miris najviše intrigira vam za vaše šanse za pobjedu uzorke Emma kreacijama, dostavljaju bilo gdje u svijetu, besplatno!

Ove godine, najviše nevjerojatna projekt povlačenjem zajedno. Izgrađeni su, djelimično, one koje čine svemir. Zgrada blokovi su fin parfemi na temelju izvornih građevnih blokova: četiri – ne, pet! – elementi. Oni su talentirani parfeme koji rade u različitim materijalima – neke sve-prirodni, neki ne. Oni su daroviti pisci parfema, njuškanje kreacije i izradu ponudu riječi. Oni su snovi iz umova kreativnih ljudi diljem svijeta, a, posebno, san jedne žene na otoku off Massachusetts, Monica Miller Perfume Pharmer. Ona je okupio grupu parfeme iz svih krajeva svijeta koji su proveli prošle godine stvaranja mirise inspirirane elemenata, uključujući petog elementa predložio Starhawk: duh. Fokus projekta je na prvobitnim početaka, unutrašnjem djelovanju… sve. U Monica riječima, “Za potrebe ovog projekta, Praiskonski za mene znači izvorni materijal…ide natrag na elemente koji čine našu planetu, naša tijela, naši sebe. Što su napravili smo fizički i duhovno? Što držimo najsvetije?”

U današnjem postu, I spend some time with the Water fragrances, 5 gorgeous depictions of WATER in scent – 4 all natural perfumes and 1 mixed media perfume. Justine Crane/The Scented Djinn, Ane Walsh Perfumer, Shelley Waddington/EnVoyage Perfumes, Mandy Aftel/Aftelier Perfumes, and Anu Prestonia/Anu Essentials. I’ve decided to use metaphors to describe these as they all brought to mind specific images or atmospheres.

Pogledajte moje druge iskonsko mirise mišljenja klikom HERE.

Leave a comment below and tell us which interpretation of water has you most intrigued for your chance to win a sample of that very scent! Kupite uzorak paket sve 5 mirisi za $28 ili $35 (izvan SAD-a) ovdje.

a

Yam Suph – SEA SCAPE

Dizajner opis: “‘Sea Scape Perfume by Anu Essentials is my ode to Auset, the primordial Great Mother. In the ancient Kemetic (Egyptian) tradition, Auset is mother of mothers. Known for her great capacity to nourish and nurture, she gives birth and life to all things. She is magic and mystery and all things deep and true. Her love and patient strength know no bounds. Auset is uncompromisingly devoted, especially to children and family. Children love and gravitate toward someone (female or male) in whom the Auset faculty is well-developed. That person is loving, understanding, patient and caring; she or he wants to feed you, wants you to feel loved. Auset’s essence resides in the sea. She is mighty and unconquerable, yet she flows effortlessly under, around, above and beyond obstructions, always avoiding conflict. She likes things that are watery, like lettuce, watermelon and cucumbers. These are among the items you’d take to the beach as an offering to the Great Mother, whose love for her children runs as deep as the sea. As someone born under a fire sign and on a Tuesday (a day ruled by Mars), my tendency is to be other than the Great Mother. I’m more often fiery and impatient and am reminded that I need to do more to develop my Auset faculty. And so it is with great desire that I set out to create a scent to help remind me to embody Auset’s essence. I know that I am drawn to those things that represent the Great Mother such as cowrie shells, pearls, kristali, the moon and I absolutely love being in the ocean. So it is with the creation of Sea Scape that I set out to design a perfume to help invoke her energy, her demeanor and ways of functioning. If the Great Mother doesn’t seem quite sexy enough, remember Auset is the source of that primal and irresistible magnetism through which pregnancy and birth come to be…” AnuEssentials.com

Bilješke: “Jasmine is one of Auset’s flowers and from the conception of this fragrance I knew I wanted this perfume to be centered around two primary essences, jasmine and seaweed. I was invited to participate in Monica Miller’s Primordijalne Mirisi 2012 Perfume Project, which would launch in June. The challenge would be to make a perfume using these two dense elements in a harmonious way and not have it be too heavy for a June launch. Considering the depth of seaweed, I attempted to keep the rest of the base notes light with a boswella frankincense, Ethiopian opoponax, sustainable sandalwood and costus. For the heart I have two jasmines playing off one another: a grandiflorum absolute and a jasmine e.o. Blended with these two intoxicating essences are violet leaf for that lettuce element, a little pimento berry to spice it up, neroli and an exquisite rose alba. I wanted to continue with lightness, so there are several citrus scents at the top. They include petitgrain, white grapefruit, and clementine.” AnuEssentials.com

Type of Water: I chose Yam Suph, or Hebrew for the Red Sea (Sea of Reeds), partly because I was indeed reminded of sparkling green sea water, partly because of Anu’s dedication to Auset (Isis) and mostly because of the colors in the image of the Red Sea above.

Bottom Line: Sea Scape is definitely an all-natural fragrance – that aromatherapeutic vibe so common amongst naturals is unquestionably present. What I enjoyed most about Sea Scape is the way the fragrance seems triple-tiered: water, earth and sky. The citruses and seaweed notes open and dominate the fragrance while the jasmine creates a subtle, airy floral middle. Konačno, the woods and resins offer a breeze of warmth and depth as well as a touch of sweetness that lingers at the fragrance’s close. I particularly liked Anu’s explanation – “For the heart I have two jasmines playing off one another: a grandiflorum absolute and a jasmine e.o. Blended with these two intoxicating essences are violet leaf for that lettuce element” – as Sea Scape definitely has a crisp, green character that compliments summer heat and is the hallmark of this bracing, refreshing composition. I’m actually reminded of Burt’s Bees lettuce toner, a little addiction of mine for the warmer months due to its sweet, leafy aroma.

Parfimer: Anu Prestonia, http://anuessentials.com/

a

Suzuran no Mizu – A STUDY IN WATER

Dizajner opis: “A Study in Water was inspired by the element of fresh water. My goal was to make an incredibly sheer, wet, and innocent fragrance and to incorporate it into the elegance, longevity and sillage of an excellent classic perfume. Mood: Refreshing, cool, wet and sexy.” From correspondence with perfumer.

Bilješke: “TOP: Drozd, Vapno, Green Apple, Bergamot, Dew Drops; HEART: Rose Water, Jasmin, Green Leaves, Neroli, Drozd; BASE: Sandalovo drvo, Guaiac Wood, Cabreuva, Water Notes, Mošus” As listed on the fragrance sample.

Type of Water: Suzuran no mizu is Japanese for water of muguet (đurđevak), although the Japanese variety of muguet, Pieris japonica, is actually a bush rather than a ground weed (Znam, much less romantic to call it a weed…but it is!). I have a keen memory of a pink pieris plant in full March bloom, dripping with melting snow on a sunny afternoon in Osaka. A Study in Water strongly reminds me of that aroma of new muguet buds mingled with the icy drops and wet earth.

Bottom Line: Expectations can be dangerous because they often lead to disappointment. But because Shelley Waddington is one of my absolute favorite perfumers, it was hard for me not to get too excited when sampling A Study in Water. Upon first sniff, my thoughts were simply “How in the world?? She’s done it again!”

A Study in Water is more like a study in lily of the valley (muguet), those small white bell-shaped blossoms that grow in bunches and that are a hallmark of many classical perfumes such as Dior Diorissimo or Jessica McClintock. But this is a very fresh, green lily of the valley, especially with the accents of lime, green leaves and green apple. Kao takav, I doubt anyone worried about wearing florals would be bothered by the muguet focus. For those who DO love florals, A Study in Water is never brash or suffocating and comes off like vintage Diorissimo meets D&G Light Blue! With excellent projection and longevity (all of Shelley’s perfumes that I’ve tested thus far seem to share these traits), A Study in Water dries to a woody, slightly musky base but never loses its bright, cool quality.

Parfimer: Shelley Waddington, EnVoyage Perfumes

a

Herbal Steam – RAIN (Bath Oil)

Dizajner opis: “Svjež, uplifting with apple notes featuring ravensara and a special chamomile from South Africa along with other essential oils. Our bath oils are made of pure essential oils, with no carrier. ” Aftelier.com

Bilješke: As above.

Type of Water: Without a doubt, Rain reminds me of a cup of steaming chamomile & peppermint tea.

Bottom Line: I’ll make this short and simple: a straightforward, herbal oil that opens up with pungent mint and chamomile (and do I detect a little eucalyptus?). The ravensara (a type of laurel) just adds to the overall herbal feel. Rain quickly relaxes to a green, spearmint aroma on my skin. I bet this one would do wonders for people with sore muscles, sunburn or melancholy. This is a mint-lover’s dream.

Parfimer: Mandy Aftel, http://www.aftelier.com

a

The Selvas – LYLLI BLEU

Dizajner opis: “This isn’t about water water, it’s about the current scent status of my entry into the Primordial Scent Project hosted by Monica Skye Miller/Perfume Pharmer. I chose water almost immediately because at the time the choice was made, it suited my current headspace. It still suits. In that headspace, I associated water with the act of birth, of bringing life into the world in a gush. The most elemental, the most primal, of waters. And in that headspace, I was immediately taken deep into a dark forest where the scent of olive-toned mosses clinging to glistening wet rocks emanate a specific dankness that is very nearly the same as the scent of birth water. A perfect blend of swirling warm turquoise water, damp black earth, heady breathy-voiced mosses, airy feathery leafed pond foliage, and thick petaled lotus flowers reaching up toward the light. This isn’t a scent of the sea, nor the rush of a rolling river. It is the scent of calm. The scent of expectation.” OhTrueApothecary.blogspot.com

Bilješke: “Blue Lotus ~ Mitti ~ Santal ~ Neroli” OhTrueApothecary.blogspot.com

Type of Water: It was a tough choice…my initial thought was to go with the Lotus Eaters of Homerian fame, but the image of a dark, wet forest just dominated my thoughts, perhaps because of Lylli Bleu’s similarity to Bogner’s legendary and sadly discontinued Deep Forest (1995). Once I started reading about the Central and South American rain forests, I knew I was on the right track: “The high temperature and heavy rainfall produce luxuriant vegetation in these areas. There are dense equatorial forests known as the Selvas. These are largest evergreen forests in the world. These forests always look green, as there are no prescribed seasons for growing, flowering and shedding of leaves. The deciduous trees shed their leaves at sometime during the year, but is always possible to find many deciduous trees in leaf. The most remarkable feature of the equatorial forest is the great variety of trees. Sometimes, several varieties of trees are found in a very small area. The forests are dense. As the trees struggle for the sunlight, they grow to a tremendous height of 40 u 50 metres. The trees usually form a thick canopy, and the sunlight is prevented from reaching the forest floor. There are various types of lianas (climbing plants), tree ferns and parasitic plants (which grow on other plants), which also prevent the penetration of the Sun’s rays to the lowest floor. Tako, the whole region looks dark, damp and gloomy. When light can penetrate to the forest floor, thickets of low trees, shrubs etc., grow. Nearly, all the trees are of the broad-leafed evergreen type. Most of them are hard-wood trees like mahogany, rose-wood, ebony, iron-wood, green-heart, cincona, rubber, itd.. Palms and tree ferns are also found in most equatorial forests. In coastal areas and swamps, mangrove forests thrive.” Kish.in

Bottom Line: Lylli Bleu was a true surprise. Not at all what I had anticipated based on the other scents in this group, I appreciate perfumer Justine Crane’s explanation that this is not necessarily an interpretation of water but rather an inspiration based on the element in nature…in this case a damp forest. And in my opinion, she succeeds totally. The inclusion of mitti (an attar of baked clay and sandalwood) is the first surprise here in a water-inspired fragrance. Darren at Floracoepia explains that mitti is “The fragrance of the earth, derived from distilling cakes of mud into sandalwood. This rich, earthy, soothing, and exotic aroma was created by the ancient Indian perfumers to capture the smell of the first monsoon rain on the soil.” What this note offers then is an ambery, slightly spicy basenote against which the other notes rest. Although the florals, lotus and neroli, are present, in no way is Lylli Bleu a floral perfume…I’d describe it instead as an oriental. The second surprise is that Lylli Bleu doesn’t really seem like an all-natural perfume – its overall vibe as well as projection is more in keeping with a mass-market designer scent. For anyone who appreciates incense, chai or sweet wood/resin scents, this one is sure to please…absolutely stunning.

Parfimer: Justine Crane, http://www.thescenteddjinn.com/

a

Coco-Saffron Cocktail – ESSAOUIRA

Dizajner opis: “The element I chose was Earth, but my brief is a beach. A beach is a point of confluence of the elements. It is Earth and Water generating Wind and the Sun with its fire which is the master of the movements they all perform. I imagined this brief walking on the beach of Essaouira, in Morocco, in January. The three days I spent in that place filled me with enchantment, peace and love in such a way that I will not forget. It was the New Year Berbere of 2964 and there was joy everywhere. On the first morning we went down walking on the beach and I could smell analytically all the scents that come from Nature at that moment. The cool breeze of the morning, bringing the smells of the Sea, the air full of seagulls flying, that black labrador running after the birds, the camels that smell so sweaty and earthy, that girl with magnificent feet all tatooed with henna….But I was thirsty and could only think of a drink very common on Brazilian beaches: coconut water, and that thought was making me obssessive company while I was coming and going on the long long beach. “There isn’t any coconut water here! This beach would be perfect if there was.” To my surprise, as soon as I arrived back in the town, there was a very welcoming orange and grapefruit juice stall where I went so many times to quench my thirst from then on. In the souk we had so much fruit, ate so many prawns and fried fish! In the street market, many colors: carrots, huge artichokes, tomatoes, oranges, pink onions, purple figs, pickled yellow lemons and olives of all colors filling the air with their perfumes.And all the crafts, like new clothing, necklaces, berbere goodies, carpets smelling of wool, herb doctors and mastery woodwork like those boxes made of olive trees, cedar or thuya so deliciously smelly. And we had a loving time, full of hugs and good feelings. This is what I intended to translate in my perfume that smell like Earth, but also smells like sea and breeze and is warm like the sun on that winter day. In the composition of the perfume I chose an array of Moroccan oils and many scents from there. But not all of them. Basenotes are of Malaysian Khao Yai oudh, cedarwood and thuya. Lavanda, blue chamomila and sunny saffron as heart note, that gives that scent of maritime breeze, but I had my coconut obssessively present, so I put some drops of massoia bark and coconut scent came in. Needless to say that the sourire of this perfume is made of sweet orange, grapefruit and sicilian lemon. It starts with the orange, goes to coconut, then to beach and wind, and fresh fish(!) and finishes in a warm loving kiss. It is presented for the Salon gradated as Eau de Toilette but you can add more alcohol in it to make it open its arms and fly high like a seagull..”

Bilješke: “Naranča, grejp, rosewood, limun (Sicilian), lavanda, blue chamomile, agarwood crude oil, massoia, coconut absolute (maison), Khao Yai Malaysian Oudh, Atlas cedar, Thuya Saffron tincture.”

Type of Water: This one was tough as images of Morocco’s Essaouira Beach sufficiently inspired me and I considered not even coming up with a metaphor. But there was something missing – what about the coconut? Not exactly indigenous to Morocco, the coconut note is the key to Essaouira’s (parfem) success. I know that a coconut cocktail doesn’t exactly portray an image of north African antiquity and adventure, but more on that below…

Bottom Line: Why has no one ever thought to marry saffron to coconut and then blend it with citrus, šuma, and oudh? Perfumer Ane Walsh is a genius, and I don’t throw that word around very often. Najprije, we’ve all been repulsed by synthetic coconut notes that reek of air freshener or suntan oil. Ane’s ostensibly homemade coconut absolute avoids these references completely. Sljedeći, recent coconut aromas have been quite the rage – Creed Virgin Island Water, SJP NYC, Comptoir, itd. – yet none of them have really caught my attention because so many end up smelling either too sweet, too chalky, or too, dobro, cocktail-ish. Tako, I was downright blown away when first testing Essaouira without having read Ane’s notes or brief. I immediately recognized the coconut but there was something else there that was familiar, something that indeed evoked a Berber-esque vibe, and that note would be the saffron. Although not taking center stage, the saffron is definitely omnipresent and I wonder if Ane didn’t in fact make a tincture of saffron to use as the base alcohol for Essaouira. U svakom slučaju, the blast of citruses certainly aids the tropical feel (think Rio) while the oudh (and I should explain that this is NO way an oudh scent), kedar, chamomile and other earthier notes aids the Moorish seaside feel (think Casablanca). Although not quite as exotic, I think a coco-saffron cocktail might actully be the most appropriate metaphor for Essaouira…and considering it is all-natural, I wonder if I can drink it. Afterall, it IS made of alcohol!

Perfumers: Ane Walsh, http://ladraodearomas.blogspot.com

a

Pogledajte moje druge iskonsko mirise mišljenja klikom HERE.

a

Leave a comment below and tell us which interpretation of water has you most intrigued for your chance to win a sample of that very scent! Kupite uzorak paket sve 5 mirisi za $28 ili $35 (izvan SAD-a) ovdje.

a

Bilješke: Svježe sporazum, ruža, narandžin cvijet, jasmin, mošus sporazum. Molinard.com

100ml Eau de toaletna voda sprej: Oko $22 iz Google Shopping.

Bottom Line: Mislim da je do sada većina čitatelja zna da sam opsjednut mirisom latica jasmina. Još u potrazi za savršenim mirisom jasmina, Sam švrljati internetom u nadi da pronaći nove i zanimljive mirise. Dok posjećujete Parfum1.com nekoliko tjedana vratiti, I browsed kroz Molinard mirisa – Molinard je jedan od onih mirisa kuće čiji mirisi su uvijek dependably “ugodno”, , a čiji cijene su uvijek smiješno niska. Budući da je ponosni vlasnik ne jedan, ne dvije, ali count'em 8 Molinard mirisi u ovom trenutku, Uvijek sam otvoren za dodavanje malo više u moju zbirku. Nisam siguran zašto ja nikada pokušao ovaj prije…Možda je jer je moj fetiš jasmina je relativno nova (prije jasmina sam bio opsjednut narančastom cvijetu, i prije nego naranče cvatu, je sandalovina…danas moje opsesije uključuju iris, pačuli, i šafran). Po prvi shpritz, Molinard je jasmina je prilično jednostavan, pristojan cvjetna aroma sa dodatkom najmanju animalic indola. Ovo je jedna u odnosu na Donna Karan je Jasmin Biti, iako ne sasvim kao čista ni svjetlo. Sat u sebi, cvijet naranče daje se miris “potpuri” ili “ladica vrećica” osjećati. Zapravo, ona vrsta me podsjeća na drydowns od Hermes’ 24 Faubourg ili Montale je Jasmin Puna. Ja stvarno ne dobiti puno ružu ili mošusa iz ove, i to je u redu po meni. Za nevjerojatnih 8 Bucks, to je bio vrijedan svaki peni – Ja bih ga kupiti za tu plavu bočicu sama (Molinard je sada u mirovini ove lijepe boce za nevjerojatno ljepljiv, ljubičasta, deco stilu boca – Molinard kliknite gornju vezu da biste ga vidjeli).Ako ste u potrazi za jasmin to malo složenije nego čisti soliflore, to može biti savršen za vas. Ako želite nešto avangardnu, Molinard Jasmin vjerojatno neće isporučiti. Ali, hej, za tu cijenu, ako stvarno to nije ljubav, uvijek možete prskati svoje ladice!

To me uvijek začuđuje da robne kuće očekuje kupce na kupnju miris bez da ih opskrbljuje na uzorku za testiranje. This seems to be an intentional pulling of wool over the customer’s eyes, je, um, nos. If you’ve been burnt by too many blind buys, you probably like to test scented products a number of times before purchasing. And I think this makes sense. I myself am a blind purchaser (terrible habit, da) but it’s a practice I don’t recommend to those less obsessed than I am. So now let me tell you a little story about La Bella Venezia…

Ove godine, najviše nevjerojatna projekt povlačenjem zajedno. Izgrađeni su, djelimično, one koje čine svemir. Zgrada blokovi su fin parfemi na temelju izvornih građevnih blokova: četiri – ne, pet! – elementi. Oni su talentirani parfeme koji rade u različitim materijalima – neke sve-prirodni, neki ne. Oni su daroviti pisci parfema, njuškanje kreacije i izradu ponudu riječi. Oni su snovi iz umova kreativnih ljudi diljem svijeta, a, posebno, san jedne žene na otoku off Massachusetts, Monica Miller Perfume Pharmer. Ona je okupio grupu parfeme iz svih krajeva svijeta koji su proveli prošle godine stvaranja mirise inspirirane elemenata, uključujući petog elementa predložio Starhawk: duh. Fokus projekta je na prvobitnim početaka, unutrašnjem djelovanju… sve. U Monica riječima, “Za potrebe ovog projekta, Praiskonski za mene znači izvorni materijal…ide natrag na elemente koji čine našu planetu, naša tijela, naši sebe. Što su napravili smo fizički i duhovno? Što držimo najsvetije?”

U današnjem postu, I spend some time with the Fire fragrances which include Incendere by Mermade Magickal Arts; Kiss of Agnayi by Cherry Bomb Killer Perfumes; Flor Azteca by Juan Perez Exotic Island Botanicals; Caliente by A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes; Afternoon Slant by Dabney Rose; Loreena by Marian Del Veccio, Botanico Natural; and Chang Chang by EnVoyage Perfumes. I’ve decided to use metaphors to describe these as they all brought to mind specific images or atmospheres.

Pogledajte moje druge iskonsko mirise mišljenja klikom HERE.

Leave a comment below and tell us which interpretation of Fire has you most intrigued for your chance to win a sample of that very scent! Kupite uzorak paket sve 7 mirisi za $38 ili $43 (izvan SAD-a) ovdje.

a

St Elmo’s Fire – LOREENA

Dizajner opis: “‘Standing on the bridge that crosses the river that goes out to the sea the wind is full of a thousand voices they pass by the bridge and me’ Hearing voices in the ‘bridge’, foot and firne, came the inspiration. Loreena McKennitt and the song ‘Night of all souls’. Inverse path to construct the perfume.”

Bilješke: “Much wind, and fire. Whirlwind. Atlas cedar and palo santo burning: the sacred and the profane and the smoke drawing drawings, aiming to be the cloud. Vanilla and amber, hidden memory: a smell of childhood, other lives other: matter be sweets. And in the darkness of night garnished by the Green Knight appears bonfires guarding the sacred shrub, galbanum gum saving frankincense, holding in his hand a branch of gold, myrrh and benzoin. Lavender of high altitudes and bergamot Zest are the edges of the bridge: a bridge made with vetiver. Top note: Bergamot zest; Heart notes: French lavander, Clary kadulja, cimet, clove buds;
Bridge to heart: Palo santo, galbanum; Base notes: Vetiver, vanilija, cedar atlas, tamjan, hyraceum, opoponax, tonka bean, ambrette seeds, labdanum.”

Type of Fire: “St. Elmo’s fire is named after St. Erasmus of Formiae (also called St. Elmo, the Italian name for St. Erasmus), the patron saint of sailors. The phenomenon sometimes appeared on ships at sea during thunderstorms and was regarded by sailors with religious awe for its glowing ball of light, accounting for the name. Because it is a sign of electricity in the air and interferes with compass readings, sailors also regarded it as an omen of bad luck and stormy weather.” Wikipedia

Bottom Line: Thanks to the perfumer’s employment of enfleurage and tincturing, Loreena is one of the lighter and more transparent fragrances of the group and so I went with a fire that is a mysterious, glowing ball of light, St Elmo’s Fire. A whirlwhind of notes blended effortlessly into a single character, Loreena is perfect for those looking for a completely all-natural, artisan fragrance that works as a scented veil rather than a trumpet call. Na koži, Loreena very quickly develops from a striking citrus and floral theme into a drydown that brings to mind those final stages of Shalimar where its oriental notes quiet to a powdery, vanillic glow.

Parfimer:Marian del Vecchio, marian dot delvecchio dot 39 at facebook dot com

a

Chantico, Goddess of the Hearth – FLOR AZTECA

Dizajner opis: ““Flor Azteca”, reveals as an “Earth” fragrance. It’s a scented essay of the ancient Mexican Aztec civilization and its botanical heritage. The main botanical note of the perfume is a wild Mexican native white flower known by the Aztecs as Omixochitl or “Bone Flower”. Today this flower is known as Nardo (Spanish) or Tuberose (English). Tuberose is one of my favorite white floral fragrances so for the primordial 2012 scents project I wanted a tuberose in its original habitat, an olfactory image of Tuberoses blooming at night in an Aztec Shaman’s garden. I started developing the perfume with a “fresh cut Tuberose accord”, with emphasis in it’s sweet, almost gourmand coconut like creaminess. The creamy sweet petals were paired with a “chocolatl” accord, made of cocoa absolute, Mexican vanilla and piquant spices. For the idea of a night blooming Aztec shaman’s garden I wanted to include other fragrant flowers grown by the Aztecs in their gardens as well, so I added to the fragrance a white magnolia accord and a mysterious note of datura, known by the Aztecs as “Toloatzin”. An accord of the mystical night blooming Datura, known by the Aztecs as Toloatzin is part of the white floral heart of “Flor Azteca”…An almost hypnotic floral note with light tobacco like facets.”

Bilješke: “Mexican tuberose, massoia bark, chocolatl accord, tuberose absolute, datura, magnolija, fresh ginger, papar, Mexican vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, copal negro, smoky woods, mineral notes.”

Type of Fire: I chose Chantico as Flor Azteca’s metaphor as she “was the goddess of fires in the family hearth and volcanoes. She broke a fast by eating paprika with roasted fish, and was turned into a dog by Tonacatecuhtli as punishment because paprika is a banned food in such fast breaking customs. She also wears a crown of poisonous cactus spikes, and takes the form of a red serpent. Chantico is the goddess of precious things and is very defensive of her possessions. There are many Aztec legends as to what she does to people (or other gods) who take her things.” Wikipedia

Bottom Line: Until last summer I had never smelled a real tuberose blossom. Candles, waxy perfumes (Versace’s Blonde) and other poor recreations were all I had to go on. But Mexico changed all that. My third trip to the USA’s neighbor to the south allowed me to experience this beautiful white flower in person and wow was it different from what I had previously experienced. And so began my search for a tuberose fragrance that actually smelled of tuberose. One year and twenty or so fragrances later, the only aromas I have taken any sort of liking to are Diptyque’s Do Son and L’Artisan’s Nuit de Tubereuse. Although I acquired a small bottle of the first and am still lemming the latter, I can’t really say that either are true tuberose scents. So imagine my delight when encountering Flor Azteca, Juan Perez’s all-natural ode to tuberose, a flower indigenous to Mexico and related to the agave plant.

When thinking about tuberose, Mexico and fire – and considering Juan’s choice ingredients such as chocolate, vanilija, copal and pepper – I began thinking about the Aztec gods and goddesses. Having studied comparative mythology, I remembered a possessive hearth goddess who wore a crown of agave and knew that she had to be the metaphor for Flor Azteca. Da, Chantico represents fire but more importantly she is seen as fiercely protective of this food and heating source, just as I am fiercely protective of my little sample of Juan’s magical elixir. One of the outstanding successes of Flor Azteca is the way it manages to retain its floral sweetness throughout its development whereas other similarly-themed scents tend to go a bit limp and translucent. I chalk this up to the sweet gourmand notes and the inclusion of datura as a way to create a multi-dimensional tuberose note.

Parfimer: Juan Perez, Exotic Island Aromatics

a

The Carrington Event – CHANG CHANG

Dizajner opis: “Chang Chang was inspired by the element of fire – specifically, the Sun. My goal with this fragrance was to express the bold solar elements of summer within a classic perfume with unapologetic sillage and longevity.”

Bilješke: “The essence of warmth captured in a sizzle of Solar Notes, Marigold and Blood Orange, penetrating a heart of Summer Blossoms drenched in Sweet Creme, and finishing in a rich, warm base of Light Woods and fruity musks. The entire fragrance is polished to a high patina with rich Sandalwood and aged Patchouli.”

Type of Fire: “A solar flare is a sudden brightening observed over the Sun’s surface or the solar limb, which is interpreted as a large energy release of up to 6 × 10²⁵ joules of energy. These are not visible from Earth’s surface. They are mainly followed by a colossal coronal mass ejection also known as a CME. The flare ejects clouds of electrons, ions, and atoms through the corona of the sun into space. These clouds typically reach Earth a day or two after the event. The term is also used to refer to similar phenomena in other stars, where the term stellar flare applies. The most powerful flare ever observed was the first one to be observed, on September 1, 1859, and was reported by British astronomer Richard Carrington and independently by an observer named Richard Hodgson. The event is named the Solar storm of 1859, or the “Carrington event”. The flare was visible to a naked-eye (u white light), and produced stunning auroras down to tropical latitudes such as Cuba or Hawaii, and set telegraph systems on fire.” Wikipedia

Bottom Line: Having been unabashedly impressed with perfumer Shelley Waddington’s Idite pitati Alice for last summer’s Patchouli Love project, it was with great enthusiasm that I approached Chang Chang. Lucky me, I’m not at all disappointed. Chang Chang’s strength is in its balance of opposites, woody and spicy are juxtaposed against sweet, fresh and airy. I love this dual character of the fragrance in its opening stages: The rounded, voćni, musky notes provide a quite unexpected aquatic tone while the woods and spices hint at the scent’s darker character waiting to emerge. This experience lasts about an hour on my skin and then the fragrance becomes something else altogether.

The drydown strongly reminds me of the aroma of a garden or forest after a rainshower when the sun re-appears and heats the moist earth thereby releasing the aromas of soil, decay, new greens, itd.. It is a rich, pungent and sometimes spicy aroma, here no doubt created by the patchouli and sandalwood. This shift from round, smooth, airy and sweet to dark, warm and earthy reminded me of unpredictable and still somewhat mysterious solar flares. I had visions of primordial solar gases exploding and shooting towards earth, penetrating atmospheres and ionospheres, beginning as complex explosions and reaching the earth as phantom particle rays. The opening notes of Chang Chang represent the full blast after penetrating the coronal layer of the sun…as the blast moves forward toward the earth, the strength and complexity of the flare cloud’s components dissipate and a sillage of invisible, energized particles penetrates our planet and our own bodies. Chang Chang’s sillage retains the ozonic musks throughout the softening of the woods while also offering a surprising vanillic sweetening just when I had thought the scent’s evolution complete. The finish of Chang Chang is pure sandalwood.

Parfimer: Shelley Waddington, EnVoyage Perfumes

a

Koh Awase (Incense Games) – KISS OF AGNAYI

Dizajner opis: “Goddess Agnayi, अग्नायी, summons flames of the descending dusk that enwrap her in a robe of reds and yellows. Beads of sweat dampen her brow as the fire leaves the horizon and rises higher and higher about her, urging her own hidden passions to rise and leave her body with smoldering exhales. Her eyes glow like burning embers, hair but wisps of fragrant smoke, and lava courses through her veins, making her olive skin glow. Agnayi invokes the Egyptian desert goddess to release ouds buried for a thousand years in her petrified trees. She invokes the priestesses of India to release the essence of agar woods from cones of gilded incense. She invokes the Goddesses of Tunisian oceans to release their fossilized jewels that have been resting on the ocean’s bed for aeons. And finally, she invokes the ancient goddess of passion…a being of smoke and molten matter, all corporeal form lost to her desires, which burn brighter than the sun itself.”

Bilješke: N / A

Type of Fire: “The use of incense dates back to biblical times and may have originated in Egypt, where aromatic trees were imported from Arabia to be used in religious ceremonies. Ganjin, a Buddhist priest from Tang China, reached Japan in 754 AD. This venerable priest, well known for introducing Buddhist precepts into Japan, should also be remembered for his accomplishment in the history of incense. Through medical incense and the skill of nerikoh (blended incense balls), Ganjin introduced a thriving incense culture from Tang dynasty China into Japan. Takimono, a kind of nerikoh, is made of powdered incense for medical use, together with binding substances such as nectar and treacle. There was no fragrance incense before nerikoh in Japan, and people used to burn medical incense to generate fragrances. As nerikoh is a mixture of ingredients, different mixtures created subtly different fragrances. As a result, people made their own favorite fragrances from original concoctions. In this context, incense was no longer used as a religious offering, but as a tasteful pleasure called soradakimono designed for the enjoyment of graceful aromas. This was the start of the esthetic and artistic world of graceful incense-burning in Japan. Court nobles in the Heian period (8th to 12th centuries) concocted original takimono in search of graceful and sophisticated fragrances for personal use. Different blends were used for different times, occasions or seasons, according to the mood of the moment. To impregnate their clothes or suffuse their rooms for guests, court people burnt their favorite blend of incense. “Takimonoawase”, an incense game where participants competed to produce better fragrances, also started in this period. Not quite satisfied with the simple fragrances of flowers and fruits in nature, court nobles created fragrances for their pleasure, thus establishing the foundation of a peculiar incense culture that was firmly attached to a keen awareness of the seasons. This is how the essential quality of Koh-Do (“the Way of Incense”) was formed.” NipponKodo.com

Bottom Line: One of the most strikingly beautiful fragrances I have sampled in a while, Kiss of Agnayi begins with the aroma of a lit match and then offers the aroma of Japanese Goku-hin sachets that are filled with sandalwood, češanj, ginger lily, cimet, i pačuli. For lovers of fragrances like Alamut by Lorenzo Villoresi or Costes by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, Agnayi is sure to be love at first sniff.

Cinnamon stands out to me more than any other note during the first 40 minutes along with the smoky aroma of burning wood. Kao miris opušta, a smooth, powdery trail lingers, not unlike the whisps of smoke trailing from incense smoldering on hot coal.

Perfumers: Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl, exclusively for Primordial Scents 2012

a

Liquid Sunshine – AFTERNOON SLANT

Dizajner opis: “I didn’t choose this element, it chose me. I am a water person so I felt around for a way to make ‘Fire’ comfortable to me. Gentle fire. Warm fire. Happy fire. Lazy afternoon fire. It seduces me. : )”

Bilješke: “A word on notes; I cannot give you the hard and the fast. A perfume is so much more than a list. How do you measure the hope, excitement, abandon and care that surround each drop as it falls from the dropper? Not to mention the distinct ‘fingerprint’ each perfumer has. And that allure thing; it’s made up mostly of mystery. I create and set to flight. I leave it to others to pin down…ali, since you ask; heavy on the butterscotch; limited edition perfume blended w/ organic grape alcohol”

Type of Fire: Inspired directly by the perfumer’s words, “How could I forget!? I’m calling it ‘liquid sunshine’..so I get my liquid element after all, don’t I? : )”

Bottom Line: Afternoon Slant, what a wonderful concept! I’ve long been fond of the rays of light that penetrate a window facing late day sun. Like Agnayi, Afternoon Slant is another cinnamon and rose scent, to my nose anyhow. But whereas Agnayi is an incense aroma that starts with spicy flame and ends with powdery woods, Afternoon Slant is a freshly made potpourri in a crystal bowl that begins with tea rose petals and a cinnamon stick and relaxes into a scented oolong served in a vintage boudoir dresed in textiles of satin and velvet. Sweeter than either Agnayi or Incendere (below), Afternoon Slant begins as a ray of golden sunshine but ends with whispers of raspberries and peaches.

Parfimer: Dabney Rose, Dabney Rose Natural Perfumes

a

Phoenix Rising – INCENDERE

Dizajner opis: “Incendere in latin means “to burn” …..and this fragrance is for incense and spice lovers. It is a hymn to the desert and the warm forests, the tears of trees and the fruit of the sun. It is the scent of a Phoenix. In the creation of this perfume I set myself a challenge, could I create a pleasing blend using only natural botanicals that traditionally release their scent when fire is applied? In other words a completely incense based perfume. It was not easy…. for many of these elements have a special alchemy to them that needs the lick of a flame or a glow of a coal to create a change in the air itself. No top notes of sweet flowers or green herbals, this is all about the sacred fire – the woods, the spice, the resins – that need heat to thrive. Each bottle of Incendere comes with a tear of the finest frankincense I have ever experienced, Green Omani. Just because some scents do not translate completely into oil….everyone should get to smell what fire can do.”

Bilješke: “It begins in Sri Lanka with Cinnamon and Sandalwood. Then to Brazil with Balsam of Tolu blending with the Cistus of Morocco for an amber heart. It is held in a base of Frankincense from the deserts Oman and the Myrrh of Somalia – the gold of the ancient world. To finish, something special, a hint of Cambodian Oud and Kyara Aloeswood.”

Type of Fire: Again inspired directly by the perfumer’s words: “Most beings spring from other individuals; but there is a certain kind which reproduces itself. The Assyrians call it the Phoenix. It does not live on fruit or flowers, but on frankincense and odoriferous gums. When it has lived five hundred years, it builds itself a nest in the branches of an oak, or on the top of a palm tree. In this it collects cinnamon, and spikenard, and myrrh, and of these ‘materials builds a pile on which it deposits itself, and dying, breathes out its last breath amidst odours. From the body of the parent bird, a young Phoenix issues forth, destined to live as long a life as its predecessor. When this has grown up and gained sufficient strength, it lifts its nest from the tree (its own cradle and its parent’s sepulcher), and carries it to the city of Heliopolis in Egypt, and deposits it in the temple of the Sun.”

Bottom Line: A review for Katlyn Breene of Mermade Magickal Arts is LONG overdue. She was kind enough to send me some of her handmade incense along with a beautiful burner about two years ago when I was winding down the previous incarnation of this website, PerfumeCritic, and getting ready to move to Finland. I loved the various incense samples she had sent but packing lightly and living in a tiny studio apartment prevented me from bringing too much of my fragrance collection. Each visit I made to my family’s home in Pennsylvania allowed me to sniff some of her incense and use the beautiful burner she had also included in her kind package to me. Now that I have moved back to the USA, I giddily await my chance to user her incense again and a review will be forthcoming. Mislim, how many people do you know that can handmake incense? I don’t mean strawberry scented incense but products inspired by and lovingly crafted from all-natural materials. More about Katlyn:

Katlyn has worked consistently throughout the years to find and blend the best in magickal fragrance; it is an on going process to improve Mermade’s offerings. We are a small but devoted family, celebrating Earth Based spirituality , Magickal, and Shamanic traditions, working together for the benefit of Mother Earth. As always a percentage of the profits go to groups or projects which promote balance and growth in harmony with Nature. All Mermade incense is made by Katlyn here at the studio, our desert oasis, known as the Mermanor. We use all natural ingredients, organic when possible. The incense is created in small batches to ensure that you get the best quality. Katlyn hand blends, packages and designs all our offerings. Mermade Magickal Arts

Now about Incendere…it seems these days that incense fragrances are the current trend along with oud-based aromas, much the way fig notes were huge a decade ago and tea notes were popular a decade before that. It’s not surprising then that so many of the fire-themed fragrances should capitalize on such smokey tones. What sets Incendere apart is the fact that incense neither takes a supporting role nor is it too-artistically interpreted. Incendere smells exactly as if I’ve been surrounded by a blend of typical incense notes such as myrrh, cistus and aloeswood. My go-to incense scents are generally the Comme des Garcon’s Incense fragrances, Valentino’s Vendetta for Men, Matthew Williamson’s light but accurate Incense, L’Artisan’s Dzongkha and Norma Kamali’s incredibly dark Incense. Opet, the choices here are practically endless. But Katlyn’s incense stands up to all of them with the added benefit of only employing natural botanicals. Even the longevity and sillage are enchantingly impressive!

Parfimer: Katlyn Breene, Mermade Magickal Arts

a

Foxfire – CALIENTE

Dizajner opis: “My fire perfume, Caliente, is dedicated to Mackenzie, our 14 year old Shi Tzu, who passed away yesterday. The Caliente Perfume has the same spicy personality as my dear one had. Perhaps it is strange or maybe not, to dedicate a perfume to one’s four legged companion, but Mackenzie was a perfume dog and my biggest critic or fan, depending on the fragrance I was creating. I began blending Caliente in November, November 20, 2012, to be exact and Mac, like always, was in his little day bed in my studio, listening to music and watching me blend, picking his head up when he caught a whiff of a scent he liked or at times walked out the the room when the scent did not meet with his approval. I figured he knew better since dogs do have better sniffers then us humans. During the blending and creation of Caliente, Mac remained fixated the entire day. I knew then I was on the right track with this unusual fragrance.”

Bilješke: “In creating my fire fragrance, Caliente, I wanted to create something passionate without using “my go to” rose floral. Caliente is spicy, passionate fragrance which is smoldering at the beginning, but then cools, as most passionate love does after a time. The notes are: Baza Bilješke: Jantar, Vanilija, Tonka Tincture (my own blend) and Kashmir Amber; Heart Notes: Iris & Jasmin, and Top Notes: Bergamot, Petitgrain. The name Caliente means hot in Spanish, which is so appropriate for a fire fragrance.”

Type of Fire: “Foxfire, also sometimes referred to as “fairy fire”, is the bioluminescence created by some species of fungi present in decaying wood. The bluish green glow is attributed to luciferase, an oxidizing agent, which emits light as it reacts with luciferin. Although the purpose is unknown, it is widely believed that the light is meant to attract insects to spread its spores or act as a warning to hungry animals, similar to the bright colors exhibited by some species of animals.Although generally very dim, in some cases it can be bright enough to read by. The oldest recorded documentation of foxfire was written by Aristotle in 382 B.C. His notes make a reference to a light that, unlike fire, was cold to the touch. The Roman thinker Pliny the Elder also mentioned glowing wood that appeared in olive groves. Although there are many more literary references to foxfire by early scientists and naturalists, the true cause was not discovered until 1823. On the suggestion of Benjamin Franklin, it was used for light in the Turtle, an early submarine. The Japanese word for the phenomenon, kitsune-bi, also translates exactly as “fox fire”. Kitsune are believed to possess superior intelligence, long life, and magical powers. They are a type of yōkai, or spiritual entity, and the word kitsune is often translated as fox spirit. Međutim, this does not mean that kitsune are ghosts, nor that they are fundamentally different from regular foxes. Because the word duh is used to reflect a state of knowledge or enlightenment, all long-lived foxes gain supernatural abilities.” Wikipedia.com

Bottom Line: Caliente is remarkably similar to both Davidoff’s Relax and the original Lagerfeld for Men, now known as Lagerfeld Classic: Jantar, Tonka, vanilija, iris and jasmine notes are common to all three. The remarkable thing about Caliente is that perfumer Jane Cate manages to do with all-natural ingredients what Davidoff and Lagerfeld do with more conventional ingredients…i usudio bih se reći, I think I prefer Caliente! It is an interesting throwback to scents from almost 20 i 35 godina, odnosno, and a completely different aesthetic than any of the other 12 scents I’ve thus far reviewed.

Sada, about foxfire. I’ve been lucky enough to experience the foxfire phenomenon in both the USA and Japan and the feeling such a vision evokes is both surprisingly eerie and incredibly magical. When reading Jane Cate’s press release for the fragrance, I thought of the first time Luciferin was explained to me as a child in the Blue Ridge mountains and how all I could think of was how my own explanation – woodland spirits – made more sense to my seven-year old imagination. Just look at that picture above right, much the same way the Japanese believed the light to be the glow of fox spirits, I’d like to believe that Caliente glows with the spirit of Mackenzie as something addictive, sweet and completely fun. I hope Jane Cate wanders out into the woods some evening and is entranced by the glow of foxfire and reminded that Mackenzie has indeed brought her inspiration and enlightenment.

Parfimer: Jane Cate, A Wing & a Prayer Perfumes, scent to be sold as of June 30th.

a

Pogledajte moje druge iskonsko mirise mišljenja klikom HERE.

a

Leave a comment below and tell us which interpretation of Fire has you most intrigued for your chance to win a sample of that very scent! Kupite uzorak paket sve 7 scents for $38or $43 (izvan SAD-a) dostavljaju ovdje.

a