Perfumer: Pierre-Constantin Gueros

Product homepage: http://www.kristiansand-newyork.com/

Manteision: A sweet, herbal fragrance that truly stands apart from the current batch of men’s offerings on the market; many have suggested that it is reminiscent of the sadly discontinued By Man from Dolce and Gabbana; makes wonderful use of cinnamon and amber notes without ever feeling heavy or food-like.

Cons: Some may feel it veers a bit too close to a baby powder aroma (while others may find that part of Kristiansand’s charm); don’t let that list of notes below fool you – there’s barely a hint of fruit to be found.

Fy atgoffa o: Deauville for Men by Michel Germain; D&G By Man; Armand Basi Homme.

Nodiadau: “Green Mandarine, Pupur Du, Nutmeg, Plum, Fig, Silver Lavender, Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Vetiver, Cinnamon, Tonka Beans, Oakmoss, Warm Musk.” BeautyCafe.com

Designer’s description: “Kristiansand New York was recently nominated by CEW [Beauty Insder's Choice Award] for Best Men’s Scent category. Kristiansand New York was conceived when two Norwegians, Britt Hovde Ross and Elisabeth Steen met for the first time in New York City. Their passion and drive brought them together to create a unique fragrance brand. Elisabeth and Britt are very proud of their native country and still have strong ties to Norway. They pay homage to their homeland by naming their product line, Kristiansand, after one of Norway’s most scenic coastal cities and Britt’s hometown. The essence of the Kristiansand scent embodies an enticing and erotic aroma encased in a bottle that is distinctly timeless and elegant like Norwegian style and design. The scent of crisp greens, mandarin and exotic spices first entice your senses as you initially inhale this new hot men’s cologne. Deeper into the fragrance you notice the aromas of white lavender and clary sage interspersed amongst the creaminess, warmth and sensuality of smoky woods and golden amber.” BeautyCafe.com

Nifer o weithiau y prawf: 5 times.

Nifer o chwistrellau gwneud cais am yr adolygiad hwn: 2 sprays to the back of my hand.

Cryfder fragrance: Eau de Cologne/Eau de Parfum: Harry Sheff at Fragrantmoments.net perfume blog writes, “Kristiansand’s publicist tells me that it’s a 15% concentration, making it closer to an eau de parfum (typically 15-20% oil concentration).”

Datblygu: (Llinol / Cyfartaledd / Cymhleth) Kristiansand was rather linear, not really offering up any surprise facets from beginning to end. I must admit the similarity to scented talcum powders such as Johnson & Johnson’s Baby Powder, especially during the fragrance’s first hour, did strike me as nostalgic. Fodd bynnag,, this association soon dissipated as the aroma relaxed.

Hirhoedledd: (Byr / Cyfartaledd / Parhaol) Thanks to those heavenly basenotes the longevity is fairly surprising; I could smell this on my skin, albeit with my nose pressed to my arm, a good 6-8 hours after initial application.

Wake: (Mae Little / Cyfartaledd / Mae Lot) Quiets quickly to leave a warm skin musk aroma that lingers softly. Safe for work or cramped quarters.

Ble galla i brynu? BeautyCafe.com $65 US and $95 US for a 1.7 oz or 3.4 oz EDC spray, respectively.

Pecynnu: Minimalist, rectangular glass bottle and cap, reflecting the simplicity of Scandinavian design aesthetics; housed in a simple, black and white, paper box printed with an image that looks like a wisp of smoke.

What others are saying: Fragrantica.com; Basenotes.net; Fragrantmoments.net

The bottom line: With some of my favorite notes including lavender, cinnamon and musk, Kristiansand for Men continues a theme of “herbal powder” that I first fell in love with in Michel Germain’s Deauville for Men and Armand Basi’s eponymous second men’s fragrance from 2000. But more specifically, I can say that Kristiansand has the sweet lavender and tonka pairing that pulsates at the heart of fragrances like Gaultier Le Male and Versace Dreamer. The difference here is that Kristiansand could easily be the incense version of either of these scents. In fact I’m reminded of Auroshikha’s cinnamon incense with it’s sweet, coediog, smokey tendrils.

Reviewers of Kristiansand have noted its resemblance to the much-loved though short-lived D&G By Man, with both compositions sharing nutmeg, lafant, pepper and amber. Depsite having owned and worn By in the early 2000′s, I don’t really remember it well enough (or didn’t like it well enough) to have recognized the similarity. A number of people have suggested that Kristiansand would be appropriate as a kind of By “golau”.

Having lived in Scandinavia from 2010-2012, I can’t say that Kristiansand particularly reminds me of its landscapes or cultures. I might have expected a woodier composition highlighting birch and cedar; mulled wine or licorice notes; or even green, grassy accords. But I’m not complaining, I’ll happily rate Kristiansand as my new, favorite cinnamon fragrance right alongside Serge Loutens’ Rousse. Whereas Rousse is a fairly straightforward, candied cinnamon, Kristiansand will be my herbal powder cinnamon.

Leave a comment below and tell us what intrigues you about kristiansand for your chance to win a 15ml bottle, Shipped anywhere in the world, AM DDIM!

Nodyn: Giveaway ends 5 days after initial date of review publication. Thanks to BeautyCafe.com and Kristiansand for sharing!

THE PROLOGUE

A few times now I’ve tried my hand and nose at making my own scented concoctions…dim, I wouldn’t deign to suggest that they were perfumes. Er enghraifft,, I can remember around the age of 9 neu 10 mischievously using one of my grandmother’s insulin syringes to extract and mix together sample vials of various fragrances; I discovered that this process rarely led to any kind of fragrant success but did lead me to a huge grounding from angry parents. And no, Grandma didn’t re-use the syringe after my decanting experiment.

During my middle school years I had a piano teacher who was also an aromatherapist. Upon learning about my obsession with fragrance, she lovingly shared her entire collection of all-natural perfume oils with me. “Just place a few drops in a boiling pot of water and the kitchen will be filled with aroma,” esboniodd. Two or three weeks later, I learned that these essential oils were a bit easier to blend than completed department store fragrances but that they also offered a completely different aesthetic. After a few of the family’s cooking pots started to mysteriously make the spaghetti taste like patchouli and vetiver, my mother instructed me to politely return the oils to my teacher.

At age 16 I tried again as a dedication to a close friend who loved perfume as much as I did. That one contained a lot of Ralph Lauren Safari for women and who knows what else. Only slightly more successful than my first attempts, albeit equally awful, I learned that perfumes are complex creations that don’t necessarily just “come together” after a few drops of this and a little bit of that. Around this time I started working at a Wicks-n-Sticks in the local mall and discovered the magic of incense, candles, home fragrances, ac ati. My need to blend was superceded by my infatuation with lightbulb rings and scented wax chips.

A few years ago, after receiving a beautiful perfumery kit from PerfumeLab.com, I renewed my interest in self-blending and seriously created my own perfume. Yn ddiddorol, I recreated Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue without even knowing it! Bergamot, blodau oren, iris, sandalwood and vanilla…it was interesting how the individual notes that I had loved so much created something so iconic, so familiar and so beautiful when added together.

Recently I’ve been meaning to sit down with some perfume-making products to enjoy some experimentation, but although my artistic and creative energies are inspired by fragrance, I realize that I have sooooo much to learn when it comes to the actual processes of blending and fixing and for the time being, prefer to channel those energies into wearing and writing rather than composing.

THE MEETING

As a thank you gift for reviewing her 2011 Brave New Scents creation, Carmine, an all-natural perfume about which I wrote…

“Wow a dwbl waw. Mae fy nwylo i lawr hoff o'r deg sampl a anfonwyd i mi ar gyfer y prosiect arogl Brave New, Carmine hefyd yw'r arogl sydd wedi mynnu y sylw mwyaf oddi wrthyf fi; mae hynny'n golygu Rydw i wedi bod yn gwisgo mewn gwirionedd mae'n! This admission of use is likely the biggest compliment I can bestow considering how rarely I purchase let alone use natural perfumes.”

…perfumer Christi Meshell, founder of Washington’s Ty'r matriarch, sent me a discovery kit – some fragrance samples and incense cones. After a few years of learning about, experimenting with and reviewing natural perfumes, I can safely say that I prefer mixed media and synthetics thanks to their longevity and sillage and considering that such an aesthetic was what I grew up enjoying. Christi’s work, Fodd bynnag,, was surprising in that although not quite similar to mass market synthetics, Carmine & her woods-focused Alpha both had personalities more similar to some of the Middle Eastern and Indian attars and oils I had discovered and loved. Not only were her compositions striking, but the entire vibe was unique.

A few months later I received a sample of Christi’s Ambr Bywyd and another small bag of incense. First let me mention that before I even opened the cardboard shipping box I could smell something delicious emanating from the package. While Ambr Bywyd (click to read my review) was yet another success for Meshell, it was the aroma of the shipping box that had me completely gaga. Did she spray something in there? Where was the scent coming from? And then it hit me. It had to be the incense cones. Green grass, neroli and sandalwood. Total magic!

Just a few days later while still in Finland, I phoned Christi to tell her how much I loved the incense. “Can you make me a perfume that smells like THAT?” I asked excitedly.

“It IS a perfume…I use my perfume blends to scent my incense,” she explained.

“Hmmmm, yn dda, I would LOVE to wear that!”

Christi then suggested that she create a fragrance for me based on the same composition as the incense aroma – blodau oren – “I’ve been planning on working with orange blossoms and this is the perfect excuse.”

THE BEGINNING

Nearly giddy with excitement that someone was going to make me a perfume, I began pondering all of the different notes that I typically loved and considered just what exactly I wanted to include in my bespoke fragrance. Almond? Tonka? Labdanum? Galbanum? Sesame? The last time a perfumer created a fragrance for me based on a list of favorite notes, the result was a harsh, dis-harmonic mess. But the goal there was to playfully see what would happen if we blended my favorites rather than a methodical planning process for a well-developed perfume.

Christi made the process much easier by first sending me a number of sample vials, single notes blended with orange blossom. Er enghraifft,, in response to the jasmine sambac accord I wrote, “Loved it although the power of the jasmine somewhat eclipsed the neroli; but I am a huge jasmine fan so it was no surprise that I reacted so positively; heads towards “pretty drawer sachet” territory however without deeper basenotes.” She next sent me a few prototypes of full compositions but in that moment, something had been missing – an overall vision, a point of inspiration, a focus…real-world scent memory.

A quick note about orange blossoms and Marlen: I grew up in sunny south Florida, riding horses after school at ranches that bordered orange groves. Being the land of citrus fruit, it’s not uncommon for Florida’s tourists to encounter orange-blossom themed products at every gift shop…orange blossom honey, orange blossom cologne, orange blossom jelly, ac ati. I guess the aroma was just completely second nature to me, part of the scented landscape of my childhood. Although I can’t quite put my finger on it, I love the citrusy sweetness and creamy, almost powdery basenote of orange blossoms. Yikes, reading those words one would be hard-pressed to understand the infatuation, but an infatuation it is nevertheless. For a beautiful cultural and historical overview of orange blossom in perfumery check out this great article at CaFleureBon.

THE TRIP

Just as we began working on the bespoke fragrance in late March/early April, I took a trip to southern Spain for a week, putting me in such famous Andalucian cities as Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla. I knew about the preponderance of orange blossom trees in this region and had my fingers crossed that my days might be filled with scented white petals falling from the sky. Yn anffodus, upon arrival to Granada, my first stop on a 4 city trip, I concluded that the climate was still just a bit on the cool side after peering frustratingly into blossom-less trees. But Spain is a land of contrasts and so a short bus trip west to Cordoba, with its much lower elevation and warmer climate, yielded blossom-covered sidewalks, blossom-filled trees and yes, even white petals falling from the sky. What incredible rapture to walk along a river bank in a medieval Spanish town on a moody, overcast day with orange blossom scenting the air.

My next city offered better weather, a Sunday morning bike ride and even more orange blossoms! What really impressed me in Sevilla was that not only was I greeted with perpetual blossom bliss, but as it was Semana Santa (Holy Week), many of the churches and processionals were burning incense of the traditional, thus, Sandalwood & myrrh kind. Imagine my complete joy at finding such a sweetly-scented city! Ar ben hynny, after a few jaunts into local perfume shops and an emptied wallet, I had in my backpack not one, not two, but four different Spanish-made orange blossom fragrances with various characters…but none of them had any kind of smoke or wood notes. And that’s when it hit me….for my bespoke fragrance I wanted something that utilized both orange blossom AND incense. I wanted my fragrance to smell like Semana Santa in Sevilla!

THE FRAGRANCE

As soon as I got back to Finland, I emailed Christi to tell her about my orange blossom extravaganza and new focus. We also played around with ideas for a name and Christi came up with oM – orange blossom for Marlen. Next we pondered what color to make the bottle….easy one – oren. Yn olaf, Christi suggested she amp up the woods and smoke that we had both liked in one of her prototype fragrances:

I was wondering if your time in Seville would produce inspiration………so glad to hear that I am on the right track. More smoke, more woods, got it! Bouya Agarwood (sustainable) is something “newydd” that I have been enjoying playing with and was thinking of adding to the blend; your feedback confirms this. Bouya is smoky, plays very well with the neroli and adds a new dimension to the base as it bonds to the sandalwood adding another layer of woodsy richness, without overriding the leathery/incense notes of the cypriol. I like the bouya since it is void of the “off” notes that other oud’s can throw off as they develop on the skin. I believe this agarwood will add complexity, depth and most importantly, the “unique signature” that will make this orange blossom creation stand out from the rest! Bouya is rarely used as it can be hard to tame so our combination of notes will be truly unique. Plus, I love featuring under-used aromatics, and bouya is sort of a “red-headed stepchild” as far as the agarwoods go. It is often used to adulterate other agars. I think we can give it a chance to shine here.

It’s funny how it all came together so quickly and how each component of the project naturally compliments the others: orange as a bottle color is a no-brainer considering the focus, but when paired with the letters “oM” it suggests Eastern spirituality, perfect for my Buddhist inclinations. Heck, “oM” itself is such a powerful idea! And that I should latch onto the idea of smoke after Spain, and that it should also pair well with oM, ideas of meditation and Buddhism…yn dda, it just seems so right! The result, Rwy'n credu, is a serendiptious pairing of eastern and western concepts and allusions, perfect for me considering how long I’ve lived and traveled between Asia, Europe and North America.

My bespoke perfume process was fast, painless and absolutely delightful, mostly due to the guidance and enthusiasm of Christi. I consider my fragrance to be a complete success and can’t wait to tell you more about the actual aroma…stay tuned!

Leave a comment below telling us about your own bespoke experiences, or perhaps your love of orange blossoms and incense, for your chance to receive a sample of House of Matriarch’s oM, shipped anywhere in the world, rhad ac am ddim!

Barn: 31384

Manteision: A completely different take on a leather aroma – neither sweet nor buttery but rather a floral-tinged, dry, leather note that pays homage to the classic chypres of yesteryear..

Cons: Too dry for my tastes and far too much ciste and oakmoss. I was hoping for something sweeter, smokier, and with a more prominent orange blossom note; Niche price tag.

Fy atgoffa o: Robert Piguet Bandit Eau de Toilette; Ivoire de Balmain; Versace L’Homme.

Nodiadau: “Orange oil Valencia, pettigrain Paraquay and shimmering orange flowers Tunisia are fused with jasmin Egypt and orris absolute. This scent rests on a rich base of leather with birch tar, Spanish ciste, oak moss and patchouli.” Saks.com

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “Cuir d’Oranger is thoroughly reminiscent of times gone by, it is extravagant, luxurious and smells of tradition. It has a green Mediterranean note with fleur d’oranger to prevent the leather notes becoming too dry or powdery. It smells of delicious gentlemen, or how you would like them to smell. Exuding style, the scent was blended for the chic and sophisticated.” MillerHarris.com

Nifer o weithiau y prawf: 5 times from 2 different sample vials sent to me by friends.

Nifer o chwistrellau gwneud cais am yr adolygiad hwn: 6 or so dabs to back of hands, wrists, and neck.

Cryfder fragrance: Eau de Parfum

Datblygu: (Llinol / Cyfartaledd / Cymhleth)Like many a Miller Harris scent, Cuir d’Oranger moves from heady top and middle notes directly to oakmoss. The floral notes are barely perceptible on my skin and the leather aroma becomes nearly undetectable as the scent dries down.

Hirhoedledd: (Byr / Cyfartaledd / Parhaol) 4-6 hours.

Wake: (Mae Little / Cyfartaledd / Mae Lot): I was a little overwhelmed at first, but then the fragrance quickly calmed to average.

Ble galla i brynu? $145 Unol Daleithiau, 3.4 oz EDP spray, TulipShe.com.

Pecynnu: Flat, square bottle with black signature Miller Harris botanical print in a shiny black box with botanical relief.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: The first time I tried this scent, I was enamored because after sampling fragrance after fragrance (like the unparalleled Knize Ten, the Lutens wonder Cuir Mauresque, ac ati), I was surprised by Cuir d’Oranger’s mellow tones. Yn wir,, here’s what I originally wrote in August of 2005:

This is the ULTIMATE Miller Harris scent and is at the top of my wishlist. If Rochas Lui was a hint of what could be done with orange blossom and patchouli, Miller Harris takes it a step further and gives us a scent a la Caron. This is Narcisse Noir without the sandalwood and replaced with a buttery leather note, woody birch and green patchouli.The scent opens with Tunisian orange blossoms, ond “opening” is not quite accurate…the entire composition is present, sparkling and exotic. As the scent progresses, the hint of white jasmine petals can be detected, adding a radiant depth to the fragrance as it morphs from floral to leather, woods and grasses. The base is magic…and subtle….this is not primarily a leather scent, but as the name implies, a balance between leather and floral…the balance is constantly present as each of the base notes reveals itself, the watery freshness of the floral notes echo throughout. The oakmoss and birch add a nice earthy touch, calling to mind the drydown of Terre de Bois, especially when the patchouli arrives…albeit extremely subtlely.After about 45 munud, the scent has softened and I’m left somewhere between Narcisse Noir and Tabac Blond, though let’s face it, those are two masterpeices of perfumery, but if you could imagine their lovechild, Cuir d’Oranger is it!

Wel, here I am 7 years later and I’m pretty floored that I was so full of praise. It’s not that Cuir d’Oranger is a bad scent, but I find that after multiple wearings, mae 'rhywbeth ar goll yma. In looking at my first and perhaps somewhat premature review, I wonder where the spark in my sparkling comment disappeared to. The few times I’ve tested the scent in the last few days, the leather was anything but buttery and the florals anything but radiant. Ar ben hynny, this review was inspired by a fellow Basenotes member who commented that the few times he sampled the scent, the aroma seemed to be unique upon each wearing. Is it possible that something has changed in the composition since 2005?

What I mostly feel while writing this review seven years later is the desire for a glass of water – Cuir d’Oranger is so dry this time around that I’m left thirsty and parched. Had the orange in question been a sweeter, fuller orange blossom and the leather more of a sueded, buttery note, I would undoubtedly be happier. By all means try this one if orange blossom, lledr, or oakmoss intrigues you. For my tastes, it was just far too much of the oakmoss and far too little of the others, especially as the scent dried on my skin.

I believe the scent has been discontinued as it is no longer listed on the MillerHarris.com website nor on Saks.com. Perhaps the ingredients had been difficult to source reliably or consistently and that’s why it smelled so different the various times I tested it. Anyhow, I’m glad I got the chance to sample this creation as I typically enjoy perfumer Lyn Harris’s compositions and look forward to seeing how Miller Harris might interpret a leather note nowadays.

As I’ve lived with this sample for 7 mlynedd, it might be time to pass it on…who wants it??? Leave a comment below!

Nodyn: I couldn’t find a large image of Cuir d’Oranger and so used an image of Feuilles de Tabac instead…

Leave a comment at the end of the original review for your chance to win a new 1oz bottle of ELIE SAAB LE PARFUM, shipped anywhere in the world, rhad ac am ddim!

True story: It’s my big meeting with the people at Coty. I’m sitting in one of those chairs that one couldn’t possibly be comfortable in. Too close to the floor; back inclined too far. I shift, and then shift again, trying to look cool. I’ve got on the slim-fit Levis, black leather army boots, stainless steel chain and Buddhist beads. My head is freshly shaved and I’m wearing Euphoria for Men. A woman sits across the lobby from me, sensibly on a flat cushioned bench. She must be more comfortable than I am. She’s busy on her cell phone, but our eyes meet.

I shift again. What the…?

An aroma catches my attention. I showered. I used deodorant. That couldn’t possibly be me. Could it be the woman over there? She looks at me and smiles…still carrying on, chatting away on her cell phone.

I’m surrounded by small nooks built into the walls with bottles of Davidoff and Nina Ricci thoughtfully displayed. There’s a cocktail table with magazines, and a staircase ascends just a few feet away to a second level. Behind me is a conference room. A number of people are beginning to gather and I imagine them meeting to discuss the name of the next Sarah Jessica Parker fragrance:

“We have to be tougher this time,” demands the husky man in the Banana Republic chinos.

“But SJP is demanding that we give her more autonomy,” offers the tall blonde in the Dress Barn ensemble.

“Screw autonomy,” interrupts the Indian woman, “this is a branding issue!”

Iawn, so I didn’t actually hear anything other than a comment from a disturbingly plain looking gentleman about grabbing a cup of coffee. I dismiss the gathering altogether as I shift in my torture-chair and catch a whiff of that odor again. I casually try to cover the movement of my nose towards my pits, hoping no one will notice. If this odor persists, I may have to abscond to the restroom again because in 5 mintues I’ll be meeting with the people from Calvin, Kenneth, Nina, J Lo, and Sarah…I can’t go in there if this stench is coming from me.

The woman on the cell phone exits the lobby and I’m alone again. I lean forward, trying to look relaxed. I rest my left foot across my right leg and look down for a moment. The stench is more pronounced.

Could it…?

Is that…?

Where is that…?

It’s my shoe!!!

I look around to make sure no one is watching me before more closely examining my left boot. There’s something white stuck to my shoe. It looks like, dear Lord…

…a humongous booger!

“Ddim yn, dim, dim, the Perfume Critic doesn’t have a giant piece of mucus on his shoe!” Rwy'n credu. And furthermore, even Efrog Newydd snot couldn’t be that foul!

It smells like, yn dda, it smells like…Swiss cheese.

“This IS Manhattan,” I ponder. I had just had lunch with the Karens from Sniffapalooza and had walked through the Village, past a thousand restaurants and it’s totally possible-

“Marlen?” a voice asks.

“Ydy?” I look up from my shoe as if I had just gotten caught picking my nose.

“Sara will be with you in a few minutes.”

It’s the receptionist, and I think I dodged that one. I don’t think she saw me inspecting the alien on my shoe. I’ve gotta get this….guck…off me. There’s no way I can talk about the second coming of Puig with swiss cheese-smelling, skanky, booger-looking goop on my shoe.

I reach into my bag, grab one of the handywipes a friend from Athens sent me (Greece, not Georgia) and casually wipe my hands. I look around to make sure no one can see me before reaching towards my toes. Safe! I remove the nastiness and wrap it in the handywipe as if it were a piece of toxic waste, a smushed spider, a…

Suddenly, the conference room empties. I’m seated in an odd position with a wet-nap in hand, leaning over my shoe. What must this look like?

I try to resume a dignified position, hoping that I’ve been discrete. My first introduction to one of the world’s major fragrance companies and I’m spending my lobby-time wiping ripe New York street residue off my shoe.

I look around for a trash bin, deposit the used handywipe, and return to the….uncomfortable…

“Not this time,” Rwy'n credu, “I’m sitting on the cushioned bench this time.”

An attractive brunette walks down the stairs above me and upon reaching the last step, swings round the banister and calls out, “Marlen?”

It’s Sara. We introduce ourselves as Sara explains who we’ll be meeting.

“Do you smell that?” she asks.

“Oh no…” I worry.

“It smells like…like”

Here it comes, “I’m so sorry, I-

“Smells like…”

Oh no! She can smell it!

“…Euphoria for Men,” blurts out Sara.

“WHAT?” I shout silently. I’m stunned and relieved at the same time. “I, umm, I sprayed on some Euphoria just a few minutes ago,” I
reply.

“Smells wonderful!”

“Diolch,” I say, with gratitude to all that is holy for her not saying “Swiss”.

Moral of the story: When heading to an important meeting in “the city”, always make sure to check your shoes upon exiting the elevator and before stepping into the office. You never know just WHAT will cling to your left foot on the way from the taxi to the front door!

Byddwch yn hoffi hyn os ydych yn hoffi: Tybaco, Cyprus, leather fragrances, Fresh Cannabis Santal.

Manteision: So incredibly different from most chypres thanks to Dawn’s light hand with the oakmoss – no grassy, soapy drydown here; absolutely no “persawr naturiol” naws.

Cons: I wish the longevity was a bit better.

Nodiadau: "Nodiadau Top: Bergamot, Blackberry, Clary Sage, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Neroli Nodiadau Canol: Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Carnation, Chinese Geranium, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Honey, Marijuana Accord, Orris Root Nodiadau Sylfaen: Brown Oakmoss, Castoreum, Incense Notes, Lledr, Peru Balsam, Tobacco Absolute” dshperfumes.com

Fy atgoffa o: Le Smoking is a throwback to men’s fragrances of the mid-80′s – think Tuscany Uomo and Santos de Cartier…or even further back to the classic chypres of the late 60′s and early 70′s such as Rabanne Nuit, Ivoire de Balmain, ac ati. It’s tone, Fodd bynnag,, is a bit lighter than all of these.

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “The Tuxedo for a woman was revolutionary and avant-garde at the time that YSL began introducing the style into his collection. Inspired somewhat by the smoking jacket and women’s liberation, the Tuxedo was a continuous muse for every subsequent collection right until the last. “Le Smoking”, named after the first Tuxedo design, is a sophisticated green chypre fragrance based of course on the Blond Tabac (fine cigarette) note as well as the new ‘marijuana’ cigarette and Moroccan incense. Created for Denver Art Museum and the only North American showing of the Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective Exhibit. This collection not only chronicles YSL’s long and wildly creative career from his years at Dior to his finale in 2002 but takes inspiration from specifically chosen garment pieces in the show that perfectly illustrate the artistic collaboration between fashion, culture and perfume.” dshperfumes.com

Nifer o weithiau y prawf: 3 amseroedd

Nifer o chwistrellau gwneud cais am yr adolygiad hwn: 2 sprays on the back of my hand, from a sample sent to me by the perfumer.

Cryfder fragrance: Eau de Parfum

Datblygu: (Llinol / Cyfartaledd / Cymhleth) Le Smoking is seamlessly blended and though it moves from a bright neroli & citrus opening to warm, ambery basenotes, the core of the composition never really shifts – tybaco, marijuana and leather are always at the heart.

Hirhoedledd: (Byr / Cyfartaledd / Parhaol) Para am 2-3 hrs on my skin; I wish it packed a bit more punch for a longer period of time. Although, being somewhat understated, I imagine this one would be easier to wear in hot weather than some of the powerhouse classics. Yn ddiddorol, a couple of times I thought Le Smoking had disappeared completely only to find myself wondering “what’s that delicious smell?”…this one likes to play hide and seek!

Wake: (Mae Little / Cyfartaledd / Mae Lot) Slightly less than most chypres that I’ve tried.

Ble Gallaf Buy Mae'n? Get a set of all 6 persawr (Ligne Trapéze, The Beat Look, Le Ysmygu, Euphorisme d’Opium, La Vie en Rose, and Ma Plus Belle Histoire d’Amour) yn 5 ml flasks for $90 Unol Daleithiau dshperfumes.com; 10ml EDP spray $55 Unol Daleithiau dshperfumes.com

Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Nodyn Gwybodaeth am y Pecynnu: Simple rectangular glass bottle with silver top and label.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: An homage from one master to another, Le Smoking was my hands down favorite of Dawn’s collection created for the Denver Art Museum’s YSL retrospective. Euphorisme is Dawn’s take on Opium while La Vie en Rose is her take on Paris and Beat Look is her take on Y. Ligne Trapeze is a grand aldehydic-floral-oriental with stunning iris highlights and Ma Plus Belle is an airy white floral focused around linden and muguet.

If you haven’t already been introduced to Dawn’s work, you’re missing out on an icon in American perfumery. Along with perfumers like Mandy Aftel, Alexandra Balahoutis and Yosh Han, Dawn has created a much-appreciated wonderworld of handmade fragrance that is as much about the artistry and imagination behind the aroma as the aroma itself. Following Dawn’s work is kind of like following a favorite singer/songwriter who continually and inspiredly experiments with different genres. Perhaps Dawn is my Joni Mitchell of scent?

Anyhow, as chypres and I never really get along, likely due to the dry and bitter soapiness of the oakmoss (and I also have problems with tobacco scents for the same reason), I was a bit surprised to fall so deeply in love with Dawn’s creation. Despite the complexity of the composition, Le Smoking has a singular character, not unlike the aroma that greets the nose at the opening of a filled humidor. But what really gets me going is the vanillic sweetness at the drydown that lingers and lingers, so unlike many of the scents it reminds me of who become far too dry for my tastes.

Wir, Le Smoking as a natural perfume feels as if it could have come from an equivalent niche house like L’Artisan or Caron. Now if only Dawn could create an extrait version that retained Le Smoking’s golden tones just a little bit longer….and if you love chypres, check out my review of Dawn’s 2011 rhyddhau, Pandora.

Leave a comment below for your chance to receive samples from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s YSL collection, shipped anywhere in the world, rhad ac am ddim!

About the Perfumer: I’ve been following the development of perfumer Emma Leah’s work for the past few years now and am delighted to finally have the opportunity to write about her creations. Together with Fleurage business partner Robert Luxford, Emma had the sense that “The great art of perfumery was misssing something. Amongst all of the beautiful packaging and mass marketing the modern perfume buying experience was bereft of any attention to personal needs. There was nowhere to go to find genuine guidance and information about this very personal, intimate product. Fragrance itself had changed and allergies were creating the opposite to the desired effect. Perfume had lost its sensuality.” Their response was to create one of Australia’s only all-natural perfume ateliers that offer a range of scented products from bespoke perfumes to bath and body products. Visit them online at http://www.fleurage-natural-perfume.com.au.

*A few notes about Fleurage perfumes: Sometimes timing is everything when sampling perfume and I unfortunately received Emma’s samples during Finnish springtime, which of course is actually Australia’s autumn. I had been pining for warmer weather so that I could finally get back to wearing my green, citrus and marine fragrances when first testing Mabon, Imp and Dandy and so the autumnal character that Emma ascribes to at least Mabon just felt all wrong to me. Now that I’ve had a few months to play with these fragrances, and now that I’ve had my fill of Northern Hemisphere spring and summer, I’m already predicting that Mabon (along with Imp and Dandy) will become a passion leading to strict rationing of my generous samples. Although described as “a perfume for men”, I think all three could easily be unisex. And although natural perfumes, the aesthetic is anything but typical. At times the quality of the ingredients and the mercurial nature of the compositions remind me that these are not mass-market, department store fragrances…but neither are they the work of a novice natural perfumer…there’s a playful mystery at work in Emma’s compositions, and you can add me to her growing list of adoring fans.

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MABON

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: Sharp spices are enveloped in rich warm woods and leather then relax into the deeper smokey resins and earth notes, a perfume for men. An autumnal chord of woods, earth and spices. Inspired by the seasonal harvest festival when the earth begins to rest and we gather the rewards of a fruitful spring and summer.

Nodiadau: Sylfaen: Patchouli, Myrrh, Vetiver; Middle: Cardamom, Bay leaf, Mimosa; Top: Allspice, Pepper

Fy atgoffa o: Very definitely could fit into the Comme des Garcons line of fragrances…all of that spice creates reference to the original CDG fragrance but Mabon is smoother, softer and sweeter.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: Mabon is a fascinating composition that reveals various facets throughout its development. At times medicinal, at other times smoky, Mabon opens as an homage to the classic bay rum colognes of men’s fragrance history. At the top of the composition I get a tangy allspice and bay, and a surprisingly subtle pepper (thank goodness…pepper along with cumin is my most dreaded fragrance note). The base of Mabon is striking with its glimmers of incense-like patchouli and myrrh. Hmmm, now that I think about it, Emma seems to have married two different fragrance archetypes – yesteryear’s bay rum cologne with today’s incense accord. The drydown is perhaps the most striking aspect of Mabon and where I’m most overwhelmed by its intriguing beauty: The basenotes sweeten and I keep checking the list of notes for sandalwood, vanilla and benzoin but to no avail…where is this sweetness coming from? Could it be the myrrh and patchouli alone doing this? Whereas CDG goes to celery seed and pepper on my skin, Mabon goes to Spanish cathedral. Simply fascinating.

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IMP

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: A burst of lemon citrus and tangy pepper opens almost immediately to the heart of green herbs, woods and more citrus – a perfume for men. A green pepper chord around a heart of woods. The mischievous little boy inside all men is the Imp — daring them to indulge their playful side. Deliciously wicked with the face of an angel.

Nodiadau: Sylfaen: May Chang, Hyssop, Opoponax; Middle: Ylang ylang, Bergamot, Neroli; Top: Pepper, Lemongrass

Fy atgoffa o: I can honestly say that I’ve never experienced anything quite like Imp. Ydy, a number of familiar notes have been used but the overall effect is startlingly unfamiliar!

Y Llinell Gwaelod: “What is THIS?” my nose and brain demand. So many favorites here – bergamot, green pepper, neroli, opoponax…Hmmm. Ar y dechrau arogli, Imp feels slightly, yn dda, aromatherapeutic, but lurking behind those topnotes there is an intriguing albeit fleeting sweetness, an accord that recalls Caron’s classic Narcisse Noir thanks to the neroli and bergamot. I can see how the name and aroma actually go together here; with May Chang offering a citrusy punch and hyssop delivering an almost minty edge, Imp is bright, tangy and playful, but by no means clean, light or simple. As the scent relaxes, I’m reminded of Gobin Daude’s Biche dans L’Absinthe neu Yves Rocher’s Aztek, and these are strange references…why am I suddenly smelling wormwood absinthe at the drydown?

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DANDY BOHEME

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: Sweet metallic powder opens which then develops subtly into a rich herbal floral and settles finally into a warm woody animalic note. Inspired the stylish gentleman of an age past. Velvet and brocade suits and lace trim shirts — flamboyant, dapper and individual.

Nodiadau: Sylfaen: Sandalwood, Frankincense, Labdanum, Oakmoss; Middle: Tuberose, Nutmeg, Jasmine Sambac; Top: Bergamot. French Lavender

Fy atgoffa o: Unwaith eto, other than a jasmine or tuberose attar, there is really nothing to which I can compare this jasmine/tuberose/sandalwood blend.

Perfumer, Emma Leah

Y Llinell Gwaelod: Because I’m obsessed with jasmine and have been recently converted to a tuberose-lover, Dandy could have been made specifically for me in mind. I’ve also recently become intrigued with lavender after years of strong repulsion and have always loved sandalwood and labdanum…anything sweet, woody and resinous. Felly, i mi, Dandy is pretty much perfect. The most natural smelling of the three, likely due to the overall vision of the fragrance and the ingredients, Dandy is a sweet, unisex floral that is actually very “'n bert” and a white floral lover’s dream. Whereas in Mabon, the drydown is the star, Dandy is all about its topnote accord. Gone are the fecal characteristics of the jasmine; gone are the waxy, powdery tones of the tuberose; and gone are the often meaty edges of lavender. These three notes are blended beautifully and emphasize everything I love about them. The other notes in the composition undoubtedly contribute to its overall success, but they by no means take the stage in the same way those topnotes do. If Mabon is a spicy, smoky chameleon and Imp is a green mystery, then Dandy is a familiar fop with a blossom in his vest.

Leave a comment below and either share your experience with Fleurage perfumes or tell us which scent most intrigues you for your chance to win samples of Emma’s creations, shipped anywhere in the world, rhad ac am ddim!

This year, the most amazing project is pulling together. The building blocks are, in part, those that form the universe. The building blocks are exquisite perfumes based on the original building blocks: the four – dim, five! – elements. They are talented perfumers working in a variety of materials – some all-natural, some not. They are gifted perfume writers, sniffing the creations and making an offering of words. They are dreams from the minds of creative people all over the world and, yn enwedig, the dream of one woman on an island off of Massachusetts, Monica Miller of Perfume Pharmer. She has gathered a group of perfumers from all over the world who have spent the last year creating scents inspired by the elements, including the fifth element proposed by Starhawk: spirit. The focus for the project is on the primordial beginnings, the inner workings of… everything. In Monica’s words, “For the purposes of this project, Primordial to me means original material…going back to the ELEMENTS that make up our planet, our bodies, our selves. What are we made of physically and spiritually? What do we hold most sacred?”

In today’s post, I spend some time with the Water fragrances, 5 gorgeous depictions of WATER in scent – 4 all natural perfumes and 1 mixed media perfume. Justine Crane/The Scented Djinn, Ane Walsh Perfumer, Shelley Waddington/EnVoyage Perfumes, Mandy Aftel/Aftelier Perfumes, and Anu Prestonia/Anu Essentials. I’ve decided to use metaphors to describe these as they all brought to mind specific images or atmospheres.

See my other Primordial Scents reviews by clicking HERE.

Leave a comment below and tell us which interpretation of water has you most intrigued for your chance to win a sample of that very scent! Buy a sample pack of all 5 scents for $28 neu $35 (outside USA) yma.

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Yam Suph – SEA SCAPE

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “‘Sea Scape Perfume by Anu Essentials is my ode to Auset, the primordial Great Mother. In the ancient Kemetic (Egyptian) tradition, Auset is mother of mothers. Known for her great capacity to nourish and nurture, she gives birth and life to all things. She is magic and mystery and all things deep and true. Her love and patient strength know no bounds. Auset is uncompromisingly devoted, especially to children and family. Children love and gravitate toward someone (female or male) in whom the Auset faculty is well-developed. That person is loving, understanding, patient and caring; she or he wants to feed you, wants you to feel loved. Auset’s essence resides in the sea. She is mighty and unconquerable, yet she flows effortlessly under, around, above and beyond obstructions, always avoiding conflict. She likes things that are watery, like lettuce, watermelon and cucumbers. These are among the items you’d take to the beach as an offering to the Great Mother, whose love for her children runs as deep as the sea. As someone born under a fire sign and on a Tuesday (a day ruled by Mars), my tendency is to be other than the Great Mother. I’m more often fiery and impatient and am reminded that I need to do more to develop my Auset faculty. And so it is with great desire that I set out to create a scent to help remind me to embody Auset’s essence. I know that I am drawn to those things that represent the Great Mother such as cowrie shells, pearls, crystals, the moon and I absolutely love being in the ocean. So it is with the creation of Sea Scape that I set out to design a perfume to help invoke her energy, her demeanor and ways of functioning. If the Great Mother doesn’t seem quite sexy enough, remember Auset is the source of that primal and irresistible magnetism through which pregnancy and birth come to be…” AnuEssentials.com

Nodiadau: “Jasmine is one of Auset’s flowers and from the conception of this fragrance I knew I wanted this perfume to be centered around two primary essences, jasmine and seaweed. I was invited to participate in Monica Miller’s Arogleuon Primordial 2012 Perfume Project, which would launch in June. The challenge would be to make a perfume using these two dense elements in a harmonious way and not have it be too heavy for a June launch. Considering the depth of seaweed, I attempted to keep the rest of the base notes light with a boswella frankincense, Ethiopian opoponax, sustainable sandalwood and costus. For the heart I have two jasmines playing off one another: a grandiflorum absolute and a jasmine e.o. Blended with these two intoxicating essences are violet leaf for that lettuce element, a little pimento berry to spice it up, neroli and an exquisite rose alba. I wanted to continue with lightness, so there are several citrus scents at the top. They include petitgrain, white grapefruit, and clementine.” AnuEssentials.com

Type of Water: I chose Yam Suph, or Hebrew for the Red Sea (Sea of Reeds), partly because I was indeed reminded of sparkling green sea water, partly because of Anu’s dedication to Auset (Isis) and mostly because of the colors in the image of the Red Sea above.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: Sea Scape is definitely an all-natural fragrance – that aromatherapeutic vibe so common amongst naturals is unquestionably present. What I enjoyed most about Sea Scape is the way the fragrance seems triple-tiered: water, earth and sky. The citruses and seaweed notes open and dominate the fragrance while the jasmine creates a subtle, airy floral middle. Yn olaf, the woods and resins offer a breeze of warmth and depth as well as a touch of sweetness that lingers at the fragrance’s close. I particularly liked Anu’s explanation – “For the heart I have two jasmines playing off one another: a grandiflorum absolute and a jasmine e.o. Blended with these two intoxicating essences are violet leaf for that lettuce element” – as Sea Scape definitely has a crisp, green character that compliments summer heat and is the hallmark of this bracing, refreshing composition. I’m actually reminded of Burt’s Bees lettuce toner, a little addiction of mine for the warmer months due to its sweet, leafy aroma.

Perfumer: Anu Prestonia, http://anuessentials.com/

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Suzuran no Mizu – A STUDY IN WATER

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “A Study in Water was inspired by the element of fresh water. My goal was to make an incredibly sheer, wet, and innocent fragrance and to incorporate it into the elegance, longevity and sillage of an excellent classic perfume. Mood: Refreshing, cool, wet and sexy.” From correspondence with perfumer.

Nodiadau: “TOP: Muguet, Lime, Green Apple, Bergamot, Dew Drops; HEART: Rose Water, Jasmine, Green Leaves, Neroli, Muguet; BASE: Sandalwood, Guaiac Wood, Cabreuva, Water Notes, Musk” As listed on the fragrance sample.

Type of Water: Suzuran no mizu is Japanese for water of muguet (lily of the valley), although the Japanese variety of muguet, Pieris japonica, is actually a bush rather than a ground weed (Rwy'n gwybod, much less romantic to call it a weed…but it is!). I have a keen memory of a pink pieris plant in full March bloom, dripping with melting snow on a sunny afternoon in Osaka. A Study in Water strongly reminds me of that aroma of new muguet buds mingled with the icy drops and wet earth.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: Expectations can be dangerous because they often lead to disappointment. But because Shelley Waddington is one of my absolute favorite perfumers, it was hard for me not to get too excited when sampling A Study in Water. Upon first sniff, my thoughts were simply “How in the world?? She’s done it again!”

A Study in Water is more like a study in lily of the valley (muguet), those small white bell-shaped blossoms that grow in bunches and that are a hallmark of many classical perfumes such as Dior Diorissimo or Jessica McClintock. But this is a very fresh, green lily of the valley, especially with the accents of lime, green leaves and green apple. Fel y cyfryw, I doubt anyone worried about wearing florals would be bothered by the muguet focus. For those who DO love florals, A Study in Water is never brash or suffocating and comes off like vintage Diorissimo meets D&G Light Blue! With excellent projection and longevity (all of Shelley’s perfumes that I’ve tested thus far seem to share these traits), A Study in Water dries to a woody, slightly musky base but never loses its bright, cool quality.

Perfumer: Shelley Waddington, EnVoyage Perfumes

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Herbal Steam – RAIN (Bath Oil)

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “Ffres, uplifting with apple notes featuring ravensara and a special chamomile from South Africa along with other essential oils. Our bath oils are made of pure essential oils, with no carrier. ” Aftelier.com

Nodiadau: As above.

Type of Water: Without a doubt, Rain reminds me of a cup of steaming chamomile & peppermint tea.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: I’ll make this short and simple: a straightforward, herbal oil that opens up with pungent mint and chamomile (and do I detect a little eucalyptus?). The ravensara (a type of laurel) just adds to the overall herbal feel. Rain quickly relaxes to a green, spearmint aroma on my skin. I bet this one would do wonders for people with sore muscles, sunburn or melancholy. This is a mint-lover’s dream.

Perfumer: Mandy Aftel, http://www.aftelier.com

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The Selvas – LYLLI BLEU

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “This isn’t about water water, it’s about the current scent status of my entry into the Primordial Scent Project hosted by Monica Skye Miller/Perfume Pharmer. I chose water almost immediately because at the time the choice was made, it suited my current headspace. It still suits. In that headspace, I associated water with the act of birth, of bringing life into the world in a gush. The most elemental, the most primal, of waters. And in that headspace, I was immediately taken deep into a dark forest where the scent of olive-toned mosses clinging to glistening wet rocks emanate a specific dankness that is very nearly the same as the scent of birth water. A perfect blend of swirling warm turquoise water, damp black earth, heady breathy-voiced mosses, airy feathery leafed pond foliage, and thick petaled lotus flowers reaching up toward the light. This isn’t a scent of the sea, nor the rush of a rolling river. It is the scent of calm. The scent of expectation.” OhTrueApothecary.blogspot.com

Nodiadau: “Blue Lotus ~ Mitti ~ Santal ~ Neroli” OhTrueApothecary.blogspot.com

Type of Water: It was a tough choice…my initial thought was to go with the Lotus Eaters of Homerian fame, but the image of a dark, wet forest just dominated my thoughts, perhaps because of Lylli Bleu’s similarity to Bogner’s legendary and sadly discontinued Deep Forest (1995). Once I started reading about the Central and South American rain forests, I knew I was on the right track: “The high temperature and heavy rainfall produce luxuriant vegetation in these areas. There are dense equatorial forests known as the Selvas. These are largest evergreen forests in the world. These forests always look green, as there are no prescribed seasons for growing, flowering and shedding of leaves. The deciduous trees shed their leaves at sometime during the year, but is always possible to find many deciduous trees in leaf. The most remarkable feature of the equatorial forest is the great variety of trees. Sometimes, several varieties of trees are found in a very small area. The forests are dense. As the trees struggle for the sunlight, they grow to a tremendous height of 40 i 50 metres. The trees usually form a thick canopy, and the sunlight is prevented from reaching the forest floor. There are various types of lianas (climbing plants), tree ferns and parasitic plants (which grow on other plants), which also prevent the penetration of the Sun’s rays to the lowest floor. Felly, the whole region looks dark, damp and gloomy. When light can penetrate to the forest floor, thickets of low trees, shrubs etc., grow. Nearly, all the trees are of the broad-leafed evergreen type. Most of them are hard-wood trees like mahogany, rose-wood, ebony, iron-wood, green-heart, cincona, rubber, ac ati. Palms and tree ferns are also found in most equatorial forests. In coastal areas and swamps, mangrove forests thrive.” Kish.in

Y Llinell Gwaelod: Lylli Bleu was a true surprise. Not at all what I had anticipated based on the other scents in this group, I appreciate perfumer Justine Crane’s explanation that this is not necessarily an interpretation of water but rather an inspiration based on the element in nature…in this case a damp forest. And in my opinion, she succeeds totally. The inclusion of mitti (an attar of baked clay and sandalwood) is the first surprise here in a water-inspired fragrance. Darren at Floracoepia explains that mitti is “The fragrance of the earth, derived from distilling cakes of mud into sandalwood. This rich, earthy, soothing, and exotic aroma was created by the ancient Indian perfumers to capture the smell of the first monsoon rain on the soil.” What this note offers then is an ambery, slightly spicy basenote against which the other notes rest. Although the florals, lotus and neroli, are present, in no way is Lylli Bleu a floral perfume…I’d describe it instead as an oriental. The second surprise is that Lylli Bleu doesn’t really seem like an all-natural perfume – its overall vibe as well as projection is more in keeping with a mass-market designer scent. For anyone who appreciates incense, chai or sweet wood/resin scents, this one is sure to please…absolutely stunning.

Perfumer: Justine Crane, http://www.thescenteddjinn.com/

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Coco-Saffron Cocktail – ESSAOUIRA

Cynllunydd yn Disgrifiad: “The element I chose was Earth, but my brief is a beach. A beach is a point of confluence of the elements. It is Earth and Water generating Wind and the Sun with its fire which is the master of the movements they all perform. I imagined this brief walking on the beach of Essaouira, in Morocco, in January. The three days I spent in that place filled me with enchantment, peace and love in such a way that I will not forget. It was the New Year Berbere of 2964 and there was joy everywhere. On the first morning we went down walking on the beach and I could smell analytically all the scents that come from Nature at that moment. The cool breeze of the morning, bringing the smells of the Sea, the air full of seagulls flying, that black labrador running after the birds, the camels that smell so sweaty and earthy, that girl with magnificent feet all tatooed with henna….But I was thirsty and could only think of a drink very common on Brazilian beaches: coconut water, and that thought was making me obssessive company while I was coming and going on the long long beach. “There isn’t any coconut water here! This beach would be perfect if there was.” To my surprise, as soon as I arrived back in the town, there was a very welcoming orange and grapefruit juice stall where I went so many times to quench my thirst from then on. In the souk we had so much fruit, ate so many prawns and fried fish! In the street market, many colors: carrots, huge artichokes, tomatoes, oranges, pink onions, purple figs, pickled yellow lemons and olives of all colors filling the air with their perfumes.And all the crafts, like new clothing, necklaces, berbere goodies, carpets smelling of wool, herb doctors and mastery woodwork like those boxes made of olive trees, cedar or thuya so deliciously smelly. And we had a loving time, full of hugs and good feelings. This is what I intended to translate in my perfume that smell like Earth, but also smells like sea and breeze and is warm like the sun on that winter day. In the composition of the perfume I chose an array of Moroccan oils and many scents from there. But not all of them. Basenotes are of Malaysian Khao Yai oudh, cedarwood and thuya. Lafant, blue chamomila and sunny saffron as heart note, that gives that scent of maritime breeze, but I had my coconut obssessively present, so I put some drops of massoia bark and coconut scent came in. Needless to say that the sourire of this perfume is made of sweet orange, grapefruit and sicilian lemon. It starts with the orange, goes to coconut, then to beach and wind, and fresh fish(!) and finishes in a warm loving kiss. It is presented for the Salon gradated as Eau de Toilette but you can add more alcohol in it to make it open its arms and fly high like a seagull..”

Nodiadau: “Oren, grawnffrwyth, rosewood, lemon (Sicilian), lafant, blue chamomile, agarwood crude oil, massoia, coconut absolute (maison), Khao Yai Malaysian Oudh, Atlas cedar, Thuya Saffron tincture.”

Type of Water: This one was tough as images of Morocco’s Essaouira Beach sufficiently inspired me and I considered not even coming up with a metaphor. But there was something missing – what about the coconut? Not exactly indigenous to Morocco, the coconut note is the key to Essaouira’s (the perfume) success. I know that a coconut cocktail doesn’t exactly portray an image of north African antiquity and adventure, but more on that below…

Y Llinell Gwaelod: Why has no one ever thought to marry saffron to coconut and then blend it with citrus, woods, and oudh? Perfumer Ane Walsh is a genius, and I don’t throw that word around very often. Yn gyntaf oll, we’ve all been repulsed by synthetic coconut notes that reek of air freshener or suntan oil. Ane’s ostensibly homemade coconut absolute avoids these references completely. Nesaf, recent coconut aromas have been quite the rage – Creed Virgin Island Water, SJP NYC, Comptoir, ac ati – yet none of them have really caught my attention because so many end up smelling either too sweet, too chalky, or too, yn dda, cocktail-ish. Felly, I was downright blown away when first testing Essaouira without having read Ane’s notes or brief. I immediately recognized the coconut but there was something else there that was familiar, something that indeed evoked a Berber-esque vibe, and that note would be the saffron. Although not taking center stage, the saffron is definitely omnipresent and I wonder if Ane didn’t in fact make a tincture of saffron to use as the base alcohol for Essaouira. Anyhow, the blast of citruses certainly aids the tropical feel (think Rio) while the oudh (and I should explain that this is NO way an oudh scent), cedrwydd, chamomile and other earthier notes aids the Moorish seaside feel (think Casablanca). Although not quite as exotic, I think a coco-saffron cocktail might actully be the most appropriate metaphor for Essaouira…and considering it is all-natural, I wonder if I can drink it. Afterall, it IS made of alcohol!

Perfumers: Ane Walsh, http://ladraodearomas.blogspot.com

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See my other Primordial Scents reviews by clicking HERE.

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Leave a comment below and tell us which interpretation of water has you most intrigued for your chance to win a sample of that very scent! Buy a sample pack of all 5 scents for $28 neu $35 (outside USA) yma.

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Nodiadau: Fresh accord, Cododd, blodau oren, jasmin, musk accord. Molinard.com

100ml Eau de Toilette Spray: Ynglŷn $22 o Google Shopping.

Y Llinell Gwaelod: I think by now most readers know that I’m obsessed with the scent of Jasmine petals. Ever on the search for the perfect jasmine aroma, I scour the internet hoping to find new and interesting fragrances. While visiting Parfum1.com a few weeks back, I browsed through the Molinard scents – Molinard is one of those fragrance houses whose scents are always dependably “pleasant”, and whose prices are always ridiculously low. Being the proud owner of not one, not two, but count’em 8 Molinard fragrances at this point, I’m always open to adding a few more to my collection. I’m not sure why I never tried this one before…maybe its because my jasmine fetish is fairly new (before jasmine I had been obsessed with orange blossom, and before orange blossom, it was sandalwood…nowadays my obsessions include iris, patchouli, and saffron). Upon first shpritz, Molinard’s jasmine is fairly straightforward, a decent floral aroma with the faintest hint of animalic indole. This one compared to Donna Karan’s Jasmine Essence, though not quite as pure nor light. An hour into the wearing, the orange blossom appears giving the scent a “potpourri” neu “drawer sachet” yn teimlo. A dweud y gwir, it kind of reminded me of the drydowns of Hermes’ 24 Faubourg or Montale’s Jasmine Full. I don’t really get much rose or musk from this one, and that’s fine by me. For a whopping 8 bucks, this was worth every penny – I’d buy it for that blue bottle alone (Molinard has now retired these beautiful bottles for an incredibly tacky, purple, deco-style bottle – click the Molinard link above to view it).If you’re looking for a jasmine that’s slightly more complex than a pure soliflore, this might be perfect for you. If you want something avant-garde, Molinard Jasmin likely won’t deliver. But hey, for that price, if you really didn’t love it, you could always spray your drawers!

It always amazes me that department stores expect customers to purchase fragrance without first supplying them with a sample for testing. This seems to be an intentional pulling of wool over the customer’s eyes, ef, um, trwyn. If you’ve been burnt by too many blind buys, you probably like to test scented products a number of times before purchasing. And I think this makes sense. I myself am a blind purchaser (terrible habit, y) but it’s a practice I don’t recommend to those less obsessed than I am. So now let me tell you a little story about La Bella Venezia…