Pros: With one of the best bottles of 2005, MyQueen is far less controversial than 2003′s Kingdom; an easy-to-wear, straightforward oriental blend with all of my favorite notes; comforting and sweet with an incense-like drydown.

Cons: Those of us who remember Kingdom might be surprised to find this a tamer creation; though I love the overall effect of the composition, something seems to be missing here; I’m not thrilled when having to say the name.

Notes: “Sweet Almond, Violet, Orange Blossom Absolute, Heliotrope, White Musk, Cedar, Patchouli, Iris, Vanilla.” Nordstrom.com

Perfumer(s): Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo

Reminds me of: Art of Perfumery #5; Joop Le Bain; YSL Cinema; Strenesse; Kenzo Amour

Designer’s Description: “Enchanting, extraordinary, unexpected… MyQueen, the new fragrance for women by Alexander McQueen. The combination of parma violet, orange blossom, patchouli and vanilla leads one down a road of imagination—to the heart of all women and the secrets that lie within. Precious and surprising, the faceted bottle plays with the light and reflections as a magical keepsake, a modern talisman. Be the first to discover your inner queen with MyQueen.” Nordstrom.com (I’m sorry, but “Be the first to discover your inner queen”??? Are they serious?)

Number of times tested: 5 times within the last week from a tester bottle I purchased.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 6 to entire body.

Fragrance Strength: Eau de Parfum

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) MyQueen opens with an immediate vanillic blast that is soon tempered by the patchouli and iris notes. The scent seems quite expansive, but rather than really undergo any major changes, MyQueen kind of folds in on itself and becomes simpler. This is where the scent reminds me of my favorite vanilla incense from Auroshika of India. Some people have mentioned detecting a licorice note, but I don’t really get that, just lots of almond, heliotropin and vanilla, with only the merest hint of violet and orange blossom.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) 4-5 hours but the scent seems to quiet after about an hour.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Just right…a vanilla that won’t leave you smelling like a vanillaroma tree.

Packaging: Created by Baccarat designer Thomas Bastide with Alexander McQueen (Osmoz.com), the stunning 5-sided, faceted, purple glass looks like a vintage perfume bottle. Beware that atomizer that looks like a cap but is actually the sprayer! Housed in a white rectangular paper box imprinted with images of the bottle.

Where Can I Buy It? From $35 US at online retailers for a 100ml tester, Eau de Parfum Spray.

The Bottom Line: Being a huge fan of all of the notes listed in MyQueen’s composition, this one is easy for me to love. Sadly, the scent is definitely not quite as daring nor as interesting as I had hoped, especially after McQueen’s first scent, the oddly compelling Kingdom. Of course, a fragrance doesn’t really have to be interesting in order for it to be addictive, and addictive it is. The only problem is that I’m not sure if that’s because the fragrance and I really do “click” or if I just have to keep applying it to get a better handle as to what this actually smells like (as mentioned above, the fragrance seems to get quiet pretty quickly…or perhaps that’s just my nose habituating). Hence the comment that MyQueen smells unfinished. However, the drydown is the best part of the scent with the patchouli and cedar taking the edge off the sweetness and adding an almost masculine facet to an otherwise sweet scent. I just wish there was something more here, something as strange and thought-provoking as Kingdom’s sweaty cumin and cold greens accord. Then again, maybe I’d better be careful what I wish for. Now that we have a Kingdom and a Queen to rule it, could there be a Prince or a King in our future?

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I love jasmine and orange blossom. The two aromas are by far my favorite floral notes and lucky for me, they show up constantly in men’s fragrances these days. The more experience I have with other flowers, such as tuberose, the more curious I become as to how they too are used in men’s fragrances. For example, I am really enjoying my Lacoste L 12.12 White with its sueded tuberose accord, and though I personally don’t wear them, I appreciate the starring role tuberose plays in Floris Elite for Men and Richard James Saville Row.

But it’s official, after weeks of winter searching, the only fragances “for men” that I can find that list gardenia as a note are Herrera’s 212 Men and some of its flankers (which I’ve always disliked thanks to the heavy pepper notes), 1974′s Halston Z-14 (and the traditional 70′s vibe is so strong here that the gardenia is completely indetectable), and Neil Morris’s Gardenia for Men (which I haven’t tried yet). Many other flowers – rose, violet, magnolia and ylang, for example – all seem to be much more commonly used, especially combined with heartier basenotes such as woods, leather and spices. Why is this? Could it be that gardenia is such an iconic “female aroma” that perfumers avoid the connotations of southern belles, grandmas and Coco Chanel?

Whatever the reason, I’m miffed. I’ve really never had experience with gardenias until fairly recently, due to the bushes I encountered up and down the street where I lived in north Osaka and my closest friend Becky’s obsession with them (she gets at least one gardenia fragrance from me each year). But being constantly on the lookout for natural-smelling gardenia fragrances and dedicating myself to fragrance writing has me longing for a creamy white petal aroma that pairs the blossom with those aforementioned hearty basenotes.

Some of the most memorable fragrances that I’ve discovered which feature prominent gardenia notes, and there are thousands, are Estee Lauder’s Private Collection Tuberose and Gardenia (Becky’s favorite), Yves Rocher Pur Desir de Gardenia (incredibly inexpensive and equally realistic) and Chanel Gardenia to name but a few. I’m currently staying in Orlando at Becky’s home and decided to experiment with some of the scents I’ve gifted over the years. When going through her collection I chuckled at the opposite-ends-of-the-spectrum names and aesthethics of two particular fragrances – Jo Malone Vintage Gardenia and DSH Nouveau Gardenia – and decided this might be a good place to start.

Before continuing, a small caveat: What exactly makes a fragrance “for guys” as opposed to “for gals”? I have ALWAYS championed the wear-whatever-you-like philosophy when it comes to scent and have a hard time attributing gender to aroma due to the culturally and temporally sensitive nature of perfume trends around the world and throughout the ages. Can we not agree that gender is indeed socially constructed and mediated? In this post, I am exploring the marked lack of gardenia in current “men’s perfumery” and as such I’m experimenting with wearing a note that due to being raised in North America during the end of the 20th century has typically been absent from my own repertoire of aromas.

Jo Malone Vintage Gardenia

Notes/Description: “A captivating blend, the classic florals gardenia and tuberose are combined with cardamom, sandalwood and myrrh to create a rich seduction of the senses.” JoMalone.com

I’ve played with this scent for years now, enchanted by the idea of pairing gardenia with myrrh. I *almost* didn’t give this one away upon receiving a bottle to test (from Jo Malone’s parent company, Estee Lauder), wondering if this is something I could both wear and enjoy. Due to my friend’s dedication to gardenia, however, Vintage Gardenia and I parted ways.

Right off the bat, there is something slightly dark about this, as if I had previously sprayed Annick Goutal Sables on my wrist and then hours later sprayed on a gardenia scent. As the scent develops, the darker notes warm on my skin and I can definitely detect the myrrh. The gardenia and tuberose pairing are prominent enough so that VG definitely fells like a floral, but those white, creamy facets are downplayed by the woods and spices. My olfactory image is of a cloudy sunset, white and grey billows illuminated by a setting sun. The florals are the hidden light and the other notes are the glowing clouds.

I do feel the waxiness of the florals at the fringes of the scent as it develops, sometimes catching glimpses of actual gardenias but more often I’m reminded of tuberose than gardenia. I don’t find this to be all that typically “pretty” and am still not sure if I would want to wear this often. In terms of this being a gardenia for guys, I certainly don’t see why this couldn’t easily be carried off by the male gender. Becky herself has graciously gifted the bottle back to me suggesting that its inherent smokiness might be a bit too masculine for her. Jo Malone has always avoided stamping gender labels such as “for women” on her fragrances and likewise has encouraged layering of her various scents. I imagine this one would work well with a number of the other offerings, perhaps allowing the fragrance a bit more depth yet remaining a gardenia aroma.

Scentsibility blog writes, “Any gardenia in this scent lurks well below the woodsy spice on me…. This might be an excellent cologne on a man. I’m not really into the male/female scent split, but on a man’s skin this might come across as more natural than it does on mine. I’m in no rush to go beyond the sample at the moment.”

Where can I buy it? $55 US for 1 oz Cologne spray at JoMalone.com

DSH Nouveau Gardenia

Notes/Description: “Bergamot, Mimosa, Gardenia, Musk, Sandalwood” Fragrantica.com

Purchased for my friend, Becky, I initially loved this…mostly because of its bright, crisp attitude. But since giving it as a gift, I haven’t come back to it and so this is my first time to fully experience it since 2006. Bright, citrusy, with a clean musk vibe and an odd, rubbery, indolic undertone that appears at first spray but then quickly fades, Nouveau Gardenia’s bergamot kicks things off with a watery, fresh citrus while the mimosa offers a slightly heliotropic, powdery fruitiness. About 30-45 minutes into the wearing, the fragrance begins to relax and a true-to-life gardenia aroma emerges that, putting it plainly, makes me feel happy. I don’t actually detect the sandalwood at first and wonder if it wasn’t used as a tincture to scent the alcohol that was later used to create the complete fragrance. As this is a natural, I knew to give the product some time to develop and it wasn’t until 2 hours into the development that I finally experienced the sandalwood and gasped, “Oh my gosh…there it is!!”

Femininethings.org writes, “What a strange experience of Gardenia. It’s almost Palmolivey in the first few seconds, then becomes this dry musky scent with a citrus like orange pith rather than orange flower. It’s not all that sweet and might make an excellent masculine gardenia (what a strange treat!) if you could find a man you could pin down long enough to spray it on him. I really do need to find a guy who is willing to let me randomly apply scents to them. Perhaps when my friend Andrew comes back to town… 4 of 5 nods.“

I should also note that Nouveau Gardenia is considered to be a natural perfume. Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz explains, “I have always been very connected to natural aromatics in my perfume designs. Beyond my experience as an aromatherapist, I feel that the intrinsic value, depth and richness of natural / botanical materials makes all of the difference in my designs. As botanical perfumery grows, I have dedicated myself to creating some 100% natural (botanical or cruelty free animal ingredient) perfumes as well as many perfumes that are 85% or higher concentration of naturals. I include these 85% and above natural concentration perfumes as a part of my Natural category as these notes predominate and they are far and away more natural than most perfumes in the commercial market place.”

Where can I buy it? $70 US for 1 oz Eau de Parfum spray at HamptonCt.com (note: the DSH website no longer offers this one for sale and as such, it may have been discontinued in favor of Dawn’s other gardenia fragrance, Pink Gardenia)

The Bottom Line: While JM Vintage Gardenia is recongnizable as a gardenia aroma, the overall effect is a bit flat and lacks the sweet, dewy, creamy vibe that I typically get from fresh-picked blossoms. DSH Nouveau Gardenia, on the other hand, does indeed offer a truer floral but also offers a number of different characters and stages (mimosa is a major player here, afterall) including a few uncomfortable moments where gardenia’s indoles shine through with the musk notes. I should also explain that I have a tendency to dislike and dismiss natural perfumes, but would never have guessed that Nouveau Gardenia was indeed natural.

It’s a little funny how I started this post by suggesting that I hoped for a gardenia that was anchored by meatier basenotes but actually favored the lighter, slightly powdery Nouveau Gardenia. While I enjoyed Vintage Gardenia, and many online reviews suggest that I am not alone in my admiration, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s creativity and artistry once again win me over and so Nouveau Gardenia will accompany me on today’s trip to Disney.

Are these gardenia fragrances that men could wear? Easily, if these men in question are open to knowingly wearing florals. Now I need to get my hands on a sample of Neil Morris’ Gardenia for Men to see what a male perfumer’s take on flowers might be!

What are your thoughts about men wearing gardenia?

Pros: Incredible longevity; love the guava note here, bringing a freshness often missing to an otherwise traditional theme.

Cons: A throwback to 80′s fragrances (basil, leather, moss) that some might find “already done”; the green herbal notes of basil and sage are slightly sharp.

Notes: “Bergamot, lime, tangerine, sage, mint, basil, violet, jasmine, geranium leaves, sesame, honey, leather, moss, sheer ambers, precious woods, hint of guava.” LuckyScent.com

Reminds me of: YSL Rive Gauche Homme (the warm soapy basenotes); Aramis New West Skinscent for Men; Molinard Homme III (the floral/herbal topnotes); MPG Jardin du Nil (mint and geranium).

Designer’s Description: “Streamlined, minimalist, modern. An outstanding new fragrance for men that fuses classic elements with unexpected touches. Fresh citrus with basil and mint. Classic florals with sesame and leather. Woods and amber with a hint of guava. Subtle, innovative and warm.” LuckyScent.com

Number of times tested: 10+ from a bottle I purchased.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 5

Fragrance Strength: Eau de Toilette (though it seems concentrated and strong enough to be an Eau de Parfum)

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) We often use the concept of “olfactory pyramid” to describe a scent’s composition with basenotes at the broadest part of the pyramid. Anvers kind of turns this concept on its head as the top-/midnotes of citrus, violet, jasmine, basil, and sage standout strongest and longest on my skin while the basenotes form a kind of warm, soapy (is it the moss and leather?) backdrop. Interesting that the guava is listed as a basenote, as it seems to meld with the geranium and citrus to form a major part of Anvers’ character. A complex fragrance of many facets, this is one that I’d be curious to smell on a variety of wearers to see how skin chemistry brings out different aspects of the aroma during the fragrance’s development.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) Sprayed it on around 7pm and the scent was still lingering at 8am the next morning.

Sillage: (A little / Average / A Lot) Just right, and based on compliments, the sillage seems to last.

Where Can I Buy It? $110 US, 100ml Eau de Toilette spray; $3 US, 1/32 oz sample vial, LuckyScent.com.

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Hermes – Un Jardin sur le Toit

From Hermes: “A secret garden, hidden in the heart of the city, in Paris. A fruity, vegetal, floral eau de toilette appreciated by both women and men.” Un Jardin sure le Toit

Composition
Apple, pear, rose, green grass, basil, magnolia and compost notes.

Marlen’s Response: The first Jardin (Mediterranee) was “meh”, reminding me of numerous other figleaf aromas. The second Jardin (Nil) enchanted me slightly more but ultimately got swapped or sold because it just wasn’t love (although I’d happily welcome this into my collection again). The third Jardin (Mousson) recalls everything from Calvin Klein Truth for Men to L’Artisan Fleur de Liane with its melon and ginger notes and I just can’t get enough of it. And the fourth? Well sur le Toit recalls Diptyque’s L’Ombre dans l’Eau and Clarins’ Eau de Jardins thanks to the watery rose note, and as I already have both of those, there’s not enough originality on this roof to compell me to do much more than enjoy this sample and be happy I had the experience.

Pros: A delightful freshness AND fruitiness without smelling too sweet; the greenness of the aroma sets it apart (just a bit) from similarly-themed scents; I love the basenotes most of all here and wish I could get to the drydown sooner.

Cons: Due to the overall rose tone, I don’t think as many men would wear this as women; for the price, I’ll stick with the sparkling and more citrusy Clarins Jardins.

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Parfum de Rosine – Twill Rose

From First-in-Fragrance.com: “Twill Rose is soft and delicately flattering. On a green, almost epic top-note, tangerine and bergamot lend freshness and subtle nuances of neroli counterbalance. Pink peppercorn in combination with galbanum underlines the fragrance which is redolent of the scent of hand-crushed rose petals. The heart note is a magical combination of violets and Bulgarian roses. Bulgarian rose essence was chosen for Twill Rose due to its certain metallic note which perfectly fits a masculine fragrance. The herbaceous green note of violet subtly accentuates the rose facets. A few grains of cumin upset this fine balance and add vibrancy. The elegance of this fragrance is enhanced by a woody base in which the beguiling sensuality of sandalwood is accentuated by ambergris and patchouly.” Parfum de Rosine – Twill Rose

Composition
Head: Galbanum, Tangerine, Pink Pepper, Neroli, green notes
Heart: Rose, Violet
Base: Woods, Patchouly, Ambergris

Marlen’s response: One of the least interesting, though also one of the more unisex and perhaps the easiest to wear of the Rosine line. Completely reminds me of a slightly more complex and citrusy L’Artisan Voleur de Rose. The topnotes give this one a bit of a green edge (galbanum, green notes – go figure). The violet, thank goodness, doesn’t dominate, and the drydown is surprisingly subtle considering those basenotes. Very pleasant as it relaxes and there’s a vein of warm, woodsy tones echoing throughout. Dare I say it, it reminds me ever so slightly of Creed Love in Black – perhaps an eau fraiche version?

Pros: Though obviously a rose scent, this one has a sparkle and a composition that doesn’t necessarily privilege the rose as the dominant note. I’d like to give this one a full wearing…

Cons: I would have liked richer basenotes, but then it may have become a little too similar to Homme de Rosine (the one Rosine that I own and absolutely love).

Afterthought: Hooray! Lasted and lasted and never fell apart. Just a beautiful fragrance from start to finish, and completely bottleworthy. What seemed “uninteresting” at the start turned out to be “pleasantly straightforward”. Almost like a summer version of Homme de Rosine….need to test them side by side for greater comparison. My new favorite rose aroma along with Rose Praline.

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Menard – L’Eau de Ryokuei

From First-in-Fragrance.com: “The image of fragrance is inspired by a Japanese-style painting of Toshio TABUCHI, who expresses Japanese spirit and Mother Nature in his works. With the concept of Japanese aesthetic, it depicts a maple leaf calmly landed on the surface of water. Delicate line matches the scent and invites you to the world of serene silence. Delicate green, serene aqua, light floral such as Osmanthus (traditional plant found in Japanese gardens) with a touch of fruity note. Unique harmony of fresh notes creates a pure, transparent scent that is recommendable for both men and women.” Menard: L’Eau de Ryoukei

Composition:
Head: Osmanthus, fruity note
Heart: Violet, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, Musk, Ambergris

Marlen’s response: A sweet, fruity (peach) aroma that reminds me of the original Chloe from the 70′s – had a Chloe Light existed, this might be it. The only note I can really detect other than the fruit is the osmanthus (kinmokusei). Visually, Ryokuei feels like an 18th century chair padded in coral colored velvet rather than a Japanese garden pond. Overall, less green than I had hoped considering the description, and a little too sweet for me (though not as sweet as say Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s vanilla fragrances). After about 45 minutes, the scent does begin to morph and relax. I prefer Ormonde Jayne’s lighthearted, clear take on Osmanthus.

Pros: As the scent dries, it becomes clearer and almost watery, recalling scents like Nikos Sculpture Women, Burberry for Women (in the cream box) or L’Eau par Kenzo for her.

Cons: Very pretty, but nothing really screams “have to have” about this one. Might be a little too peachy to be unisex for some.

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Pros: An un-floral floral, Camille immediately surprised me with its straightforward simplicity and beauty. I love the buttery, earthy tones of the iris set against the sweeter osmanthus petals.

Cons: Although it is an all-natural perfume bearing its own merits, Camille lacks the vibrant punch of more mainstream fragrances while the cost is higher as well.

Notes: “Osmanthus, Iris Root from Italy, Mimosa, Tuberose, and others.” JoAnneBassett.com

Reminds me of: Hmmm, this really doesn’t smell like anything else I’ve yet encountered – utterly unique.

Designer’s Description: “Camille is a very proud woman and being French she is very seductive. It is a part of her charm. Let her perform her magic on you. Ooh la la!” JoAnneBassett.com

Number of times tested: 4 times within the last month from a sample sent to me by the perfumer.

Number of sprays applied for this review: A couple of dabs to the back of my hand.

Fragrance Strength: Perfume

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) Camille begins with a cool, doughy breeze of iris root and then quickly reveals it’s more floral heart of osmanthus, mimosa and tuberose. As mentioned above, the scent is surprising because even though the ingredients suggest “pretty”, Camille is far more grounded and earthy than the notes would lead one to believe. There’s an antique quality about the composition as it develops, at times I think I smell smoked tea, other times old wicker chairs and pepper.

Longevity: (Short/ Average / Long-lasting) Camille lasts about 90 minutes on my skin before disappearing. Twice I thought I detected a little sillage rising a couple of hours after application.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) Quiet…

Where Can I Buy It? $20 US for a sample set of all 4 fragrances from the French collection; $40 US, Travel size Eau de Parfum; $125 US for a 1oz Eau de Parfum in French bottle; $145 US, 1/4 oz Parfum from JoAnneBassett.com

The Bottom Line: As I’m admittedly a natural perfumery novice, only now beginning to realize that comparing natural perfumes to mainstream synthetic perfumes is like comparing apples and elephants, I’ve tried to look at fragrances like Camille from a slightly different angle. That being said, it’s still hard to consider shelling out the bucks for a few drops of a quiet scent when for half the price I could have a year’s worth of a super-sillage scent by…Hermes. So, why exactly is this Camille fragrance so bewitching and what has perfumer JoAnne Bassett accomplished? First let me tell you a little story about a very special tree that grows just blocks from a train station in a place I used to call home.

Walking from the Higashiyodogawa-ku Hankyu train station in Osaka, Japan to my small flat just minutes away, I used to pass this small patch of undeveloped land/raized lot (a complete miracle in suburban Osaka). In the middle of this fenced patch stood a huge, glorious, old tree that every late autumn blossomed with firey orange petals. At first, I was unsure of what I was smelling or where exactly it was coming from. Was there a laundromat nearby (I kept thinking how similar this mystery scent was to my favorite laundry detergent)? Could it be the smell of incense wafting from one of those small shrines typically found on Japanese street corners? The aroma that caught my attention was sweet, unlike anything else I had ever smelled, and incredibly intoxicating.

One day while walking through a park I came across the smell again; this time I was able to conclude that it was from the blossoms of a bush that looked suspiciously similar to that majestic old tree. I picked off a couple of flowers, mashed them between my fingers and then rubbed the pulp into my skin. Heaven. The next time I passed my tree, I simply stood in front of it, letting the breeze carry its perfume to me and wondering what the heck this flower was.

Enter Joanne Bassett’s Camille, the first perfume I’ve tested that smells nearly identical to kinmokusei, or Japanese osmanthus, the name of those firey, orange, miniature blossoms. By using another favorite ingredient of mine, iris root, JoAnne has tempered the sweetness of the blossoms with a cool dryness, as I wrote before, almost buttery…actually, almost leathery. As a natural perfumer friend of mine has pointed out, natural, pure ingredients smell differently from their laboratory-tweaked synthetic counterparts. Though I love Ormonde Jayne and The Different Company’s Osmanthus fragrances, they really don’t recall the aroma of the natural blossom in my opinion. JoAnne’s Camille, however, does.

The fault I find with Camille is that after this scent gets going, it quickly slows down and fades. It almost feels unfinished and I would have loved some woods in the base to prop up the scent and help its longevity. Not being a perfumer myself, I’m not sure if this would have been effective due to the nature of the ingredients. But nevertheless, I was left wanting more.

Though named and described as a feminine fragrance, I find Camille to be somewhat masculine and wonder if the perfumer wouldn’t consider re-visiting this scent to create a masculine counterpart, keeping the osmanthus and iris focal point but perhaps strengthening them with some darker basenotes. Who might Camille’s male equivalent be? How about Kane…as in Citizen?

To conclude, Camille is a surprising creation from a little-known perfumer that deserves to be sniffed! If you’re an osmanthus or iris lover, go on over to JoAnne’s site and order yourself a sample! Leave all of your expectations behind and I doubt you’ll be disappointed.

Any “off the beaten path” iris or osmanthus scents that you know of? Leave a comment below!

Memorable fragrances that launched in 2011:

(click the links for full reviews at ThePerfumeCritic)

1. En Voyage Perfumes, Go ask Alice
2. Mad et Len, Patchouli
3. Sisley, Eau d’Ikar
4. Elie Saab, Le Parfum
5. Jouany, Marrakech
6. Creed, Royal Oud
7. Chloe, Love, Chloe Eau Intense
8. Yves Rocher, Comme Une Evidence Green for Men
9. Lacoste, L.12.12. White
10. Estee Lauder, Wild Elixir

I should disclose that I own all of the above, and all but the Mad et Len, Lacoste, Eau d’Ikar and Green were sent to me by the fragrances’ PR teams. I went with a list of fragrances I actually own as a way to delimit my list (otherwise this would have been one hell of a list!). In no way do I feel that these represent the best of world perfumery in 2011 but I simply own, wear and enjoy them. I should admit that I most often love earthy, spicy aromas, vanilla/amber drydowns and I’m a sucker for a good green scent. I tend to stay away from fruity-florals, chypres, lily of the valley-heavy scents and typical men’s ozonics. Sadly, I likely only sampled 5-10% of the total output of new fragrances this year what with the growing number of niche, natural and specialty fragrances launching these days. So read this as a snapshot of the fragrances that came across my path in 2011.

2011 is all about patchouli for me. Thanks to Monica Miller’s (Perfume Pharmer) Summer of Patchouli Love, I discovered a wonderful range of new perfumers working in the natural perfumery palette. Go Ask Alice holds my #1 spot for 2011 as it radically shifted my perception of natural perfumes and cemented my love for patchouli…and I have yet to meet a single person who dislikes it. Mad et Len is a new, French, niche perfumery that I came across at a boutique in Helsinki and their version of patchouli – tinged with rose and lemon – is absolutely mesmerizing. Sisley’s first official fragrance “for men” arrived with a triumphant flash of warm, spicy greens; Elie Saab’s eponymous first fragrance appealed to my orange blossom and patchouli affection; and Jouany’s Marrakech continued the orange blossom theme albeit as a natural perfume that is unlike any other orange blossom fragrance I’ve yet experienced. Creed offered a number of new scents this year but none were more compelling than their relaxed, well-blended take on oud. Some might suggest it isn’t oudy enough, but when compared to Creed’s other takes on single notes (for example, Original Vetiver or Original Santal), one can understand the aesthethic as “fragrant interpretation” rather than straight up smell-alike.

Chloe’s Intense version of last year’s Love was a fast romance for me, always a fan of ambery florals. Yves Rocher launched a new Comme une Evidence fragrance, this time in the men’s line. Green was so easy to wear and affordable I just had to buy it for the summertime. Lacoste’s use of tuberose, grapefruit and suede easily enamored me while in Miami airport’s Duty Free and Estee Lauder’s early-year, seasonal launch, Wild Elixir, charmed me every time I tried it with its blend of woods and white flowers.

While in Osaka, I also sampled the following and hope to be able to come back to them again sometime in the future: YSL, La Collection Y; Nobile 1942, Muschio Nobile; and Balenciaga L’Essence.

Memorable fragrances that launched PRIOR TO 2011 (but that I discovered in 2011):

1. Kiehl’s, Forest Rain
2. Narciso Rodriguez, For Him Musk
3. Cartier, Santos Concentree
4. Serge Lutens, Gris Clair
5. Kenzo, Amour
6. Jennifer Anniston, Lolavie
7. Mauboussin, Homme Eau de Parfum
8. Loewe, 7 pour Homme
9. Crabtree & Evelyn, Iris
10. Yves Rocher, Tendre Jasmin

I purchased some really beautiful fragrances this year that launched prior to 2011. Forest Rain was a blind buy surprise with its cinnamon and vanilla undertones while Narciso For Him Musk’s wet earth vibe might have been aptly named Forest Rain! I finally found a way to love Santos by Cartier – the Concentree version is richer overall and a little less herbal. While at a friend’s in Mexico I wore the lavender-incense themed Gris Clair and immediately wondered why I hadn’t fallen for this one earlier. Kenzo Amour continued to get mileage for me straight through the year as I consistently enjoyed the almond/vanilla/rice steam aromas.

Lolavie by Jennifer Anniston smells a lot like so many other things – Gendarme, Philosophy’s Amazing Grace, something by Clean – and has sad longevity, but somehow I still love wearing it. By turns citrusy, musky and soapy I love the journey this one goes through on its development but then again I’m a sucker for white musk scents in general. Mauboussin’s eau de parfum concentration of its first men’s fragrance, Homme, is a prime example of how different EDT’s can be from EDP’s. Though I liked the original EDT’s lavender and sandalwood, I LOVE the depth, richness and complexity of the EDP.

Loewe’s newest men’s scent, 7, satisfied my love for myrrh and incense and Crabtree and Evelyn’s reasonably priced Iris offers a completely different take on the flower than I’m generally used to, employing (surprise, surprise) a healthy dose of patchouli. Finally, Yves Rocher’s Tendre Jasmin pleases my love for gentle, genuine jamsine aromas while drying down to something best described as hair shampoo – and I absolutely love it.

Additionally, Yves Rocher So Elixir (soooo TM Angel but soooo much cheaper), Balmain’s Vent Vert (the perfect green), O Boticario’s Barolo (like Kors’ red wine homage), and Dior’s Eau Sauvage Extreme all entered the collection in 2011.

It was also an exciting year for discoveries of fragrances I’ve long wanted to experience or once experienced but never found again. I was lucky enough to find reasonably-priced bottles of Yves Rocher classics like Aztek and Homme Millenaire, Benetton’s original Colors, Guy Laroche’s original Drakkar (without the noir), Rochas’s Globe, Ralph Lauren’s Tuxedo, Donna Karan Chaos, Armani Mania (original) for Women, Cacharel’s LouLou and Morabito’s Monsieur and M.

While writing this, I have samples of everything from Killian to DelRae to Neil Morris to Brecourt to Mandy Aftel waiting to be experienced, and no doubt a few of those will make it on to next year’s list.

In a comment below or at ThePerfumeCritic Facebook page, tell me what your favorite discovery of 2011 was for your chance to win a deluxe sample of Kiehl’s Forest Rain!

Pros: The inclusion of sweet, airy rice husk and buttery iris truly sets this scent apart from other white florals.

Cons: As it is Creed, the price is a little steep (see below for purchasing info); could last a little longer on my skin.

Reminds me of: I honestly can’t think of another scent that Love in White resembles; there is definitely a soapy quality overall, but which soap I can’t quite put my finger, er, nose on.

Notes: “Orange zest, jasmine, daffodil, mysore sandalwood, rice husk, iris, magnolia, vanilla.” ParfumsRaffy.com

Designer’s Description: “Master Perfumer Olivier Creed introduces his first women’s creation in five years—an exotic floral inspired by his ocean voyages. Creed Love in White perfume. Symbolizing the brilliant sensation of freedom and harmony felt at sea, this delicate floral fragrance blends the finest ingredients from exotic lands: Orange zest from Southern Spain, white jasmine from the Italian Coast, and daffodil from the French Riviera. Sandalwood from Mysore India, young iridescent rice husk from Tonkin, and iris from Egypt. Magnolia from the Guatemalan Mountains and vanilla from the Island of Java.” ParfumsRaffy.com

Number of times tested: 4

Number of sprays applied for this review: 5 to full body from a bottle given to me by Creed.

Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) The scent opens with a bright, zesty floral tone – think white petals of jasmine and magnolia cascading from the sky. The orange zest tones down the usually overwhelming nature of this accord while the immediate emergence of the rice husk (think a bowl of white rice at your favorite Chinese restaurant, or the rice steam from a cooker) startles and beguiles. I kept thinking that this was going to lead down a path of flowers, but then the buttery iris note steps in with a very subtle vanilla. Again, each time I thought Love in White was going to stay “ultra-pretty”, it showed restraint and kept me re-thinking the overall composition. No, the development is not miraculous; there is no “changes over time” quality, but the scent does keep my hand at my nose to see which way it’s heading.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) 6-8 hours

Sillage: (A little / Average / A lot) Immediately upon receipt of my bottle of Love in White, I sprayed it on and went to see the Broadway production of Sunday in the Park With George at Studio 54…more like Sunday in the Park with Creed. Though she loved the show, the woman sitting next to me seemed to be more interested in my scent.

Where can I buy it? From $140 US, 1 oz EDP Spray at CreedBoutique.com

Note About the Packaging: A stunning, matte, white lacquer over glass creates a bisque porcelain effect on the bottle. Silver lettering and a silver bow compliment the simplicity. The outer packaging is a typical Creed white paper box covered with the three-feather logo in relief. I hated the silver bow and immediately took it off my bottle, but to each their own.

The Bottom Line: Though the bottle does immediately create the impression of a regency period lady sitting at her boudoir inserting a large feather into her wig, and perhaps that was what Creed was after, had the scent been bottled in a typical Serge Lutens or L’Artisan bottle, I think it might find a decidedly different audience – in other words, don’t let the packaging or name fool you (boy, that was a long sentence). Ok, let me explain – the only other scents I’ve experienced with a prominent rice husk note are Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s now discontinued Rizieres and the little known Kenzo Ki Rice Steam. So right from the start, Creed has worked magic with this unique note. So unusual is it, that I find myself sniffing the bottle (no easy feat because generally the Creed caps reek of plastic) just to get a whiff of rice steam.

I’ll dig deeper….I lived in Japan for 4 years and for three of those years I used a rice cooker. Like a scented candle or stick of incense, ten minutes into the cooking process the rice would fill my kitchen with the sweet, creamy aroma of sticky, softening starch. Sometimes I would just stand over the little steamer deeply inhaling the delicious aroma. So imagine my surprise when I first truly examined this scent and was immediately transported back in time to my little kitchen in Osaka.

So for me, the magic of Love in White is all about its element of surprise. Comptoir works with unusual notes (kelp and lily of the valley in Aqua Motu, for example), as does L’Artisan (witness Passage d’Enfer’s lily and incense, or Voleur de Roses’ plum, patchouli and rose), and now Creed has entered the “wow, what is THAT?” game with Love in White’s rice husk.

True, I could wax poetic on the loveliness of the white petals, or the yummy iris and vanilla, but truly, what should have you calling your local Creed counter and begging for a sample right this very moment is not that this is a beautiful fragrance, not that this is a stunning, soapy floral, but to satisfy your very curious sniffer as to what a master perfumer can do by blending very traditional notes with one that is oddly familiar and incredibly addictive. Forget that it’s Creed, forget that it’s Love in White, and examine the scent of rice husk in a fragrance!

p.s. – Since discovering this masterpiece almost 5 years ago and after giving numerous birthday and holiday gifts, I can honestly claim that both my closest female friend and my mother regularly name Love in White as their hands down favorite fragrance.

What note would you most like to see Creed work with next ?

Pros: Like Love in White before it, there is something about Love in Black that feels decidedly different from the classic Creeds of yester-year. Though I’ve experienced other violet and iris scents that have gone either too sweet or too astringent, the balance of warm, musky basenotes leads the aroma down a decidedly unisex path. This just might be the floral for those who think they dislike florals.

Cons: Difficult at the beginning but give it a few mintues to relax on the skin.

Reminds me of: Though the theme and persona of Love in Black feels familiar, I honestly can’t say it reminds me of any other fragrance. In some ways it is a classic iris aroma like Mona di Orio’s Amyitis, yet in other ways it is all about violet, like Caron’s classic Violette Precieuse. At other times still there are reflections of Silver Mountain Water’s (also Creed) glimmering blackcurrant notes. Though each of these fragrances are points of reference for specific layers of Love in Black, the overall effect is really quite unique.

Notes: “Greek wildflowers, Violet, Virginia cedar, Iris from Firenze, Clove, Tonkin musk, Violet from Grasse, Bourgogne blackcurrant, & Rose” from Creed press release.

Designer’s Description: “With Love In Black, sixth-generation master perfumer Olivier CREED honors legendary dark-haired beauty Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, whom Mr. CREED met during the former First Lady’s European travels. Mr. CREED, with his son, Erwin, presents a fragrance that evokes the unique élan of Mrs. Onassis: her dark, mysterious eyes behind black sunglasses, her wavelets of brunette hair, her trim shape in a black sheath. To create Love In Black, Mr. CREED blended ingredients from places loved by this well-traveled woman. Even the bottle is made with black sand like that in the Greek isles where she wed Aristotle Onassis. Love In Black is released on the 40th anniversary of that wedding. A portion of proceeds from U.S. sales of Love In Black will help protect endangered animal species through the WWF, an organization of which Prince Philip of England is President Emeritus” from Creed press release.

Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum

Number of times tested: Numerous from a bottle given to me by Creed.

Number of sprays applied for this review: 5 to the arms, chest and neck.

Development: (Linear /Average / Complex) Though not a total chameleon, Love in Black feels like the night itself, descending slowly into an indigo darkness dimly lit by glimmering reflections of a summer moon. Though the scent is dark, it also glows with musk and iris. Again, though the opening suggests a classic floral bouquet, the development reveals a warm, almost nutty undercurrent of oriental notes. At one point I thought I smelled sesame…

Longevity: (Short /Average/Long-lasting) 7-9 hours; last night I went to sniff my wrist, remarked at how amazing I smelled, and then concluded that it had to be the Love in Black I had put on over 8 hours earlier.

Sillage: (A little / Average / A Lot) Though a friend commented at first that my scent was “large”, the same friend complimented me only a couple of hours later by stating that I smelled “snuggly”.

Packaging: A stunning, matte, black lacquer over glass creates a bisque procelain effect on the bottle. Silver lettering and a black bow compliment the simplicity. The outer packaging is a typical Creed paper box covered with the three-feather logo in relief, but this time the box is black.

Where can I buy it? From $140 US at CreedBoutique.com.

The Bottom Line: When I had heard that Love in Black (LiB) was the next new release from Creed, I had imagined that the scent would be a masculine counterpart to Love in White (LiW). When I learned that this was not the case, my olfactory imagination went towards a smokey, ambery gourmand aroma – afterall, Creed hasn’t really ever done a gourmand scent. Knowing nothing about the notes at first sniff, I was shocked to find echoes of LiW’s floral iris tones, though sweeter and less creamy than LiW. Even more to my surprise was how the aroma changed over time on my skin, morphing from classic floral to warm, aromatic woodsy.

But the real story behind my love affair en noir is not quite as romantic…. I first smelled Love in Black on a sultry Manhattan day, the kind of afternoon where spring is happily giving way to summer’s warmth. To be less florid, I was hot and sweaty. I ripped open my box as if I was 5 years old and all the wonders of the world lay hidden within. I pulled out the bottle, popped off the cap with my thumbs, and sprayed with abandon. And you know what? I didn’t love it. No, not at first. Love in Black is not suited to an 11th floor, Manhattan apartment where the air conditioning is broken. Moreover, my expectations needed to dissipate and so it wasn’t until halfway through the second-wearing that I began to appreciate LiB’s masterful combination of floral and woody notes. My olfactory mind had no template for LiB and so finally it was during the third wearing while examining the development and longevity of the scent that I realized how addictive the composition truly is. I clearly remember remarking that I in fact was wrong about my first impressions…they can be both dangerous and misleading…especially when it comes to both love and scent.

What does it smell like? Well, it might be easier to explain what it does not smell like! This is not green and dewy, there isn’t an aquatic or airy hint, there is no foody-gourmand quality, no citrus freshness, and it is by no means a fruity-floral.

To me, LiB is a throwback to classic perfumery of the early 20th century. Had I only smelled it and not known the artist behind the aroma, I would have imagined this to be a creation from a house such as classic Molinard or early Patou. Yes, LiB makes me think of an evening party from the roaring twenties. And this is one of the wonders of scent: I’m in London, smoking a pipe of musky-sweet tobacco, my newly-shaved skin braced by an after-shave of violets, and my shoulders covered in black velvet smoking jacket; a single red rose rests in my lapel as I sit in front of a crackling, cedarwood fire. LiB is a thick, deep aroma that has no problem asserting its presence from the very first spray. It is highly androgynous, a little bit sweet and the cedar, iris, musk and clove create a surprisingly rich, dark basenote accord. The flower is almost entirely a gothic violet complete with leaf, root and earth. As the unlikely pieces come together, the luxurious drydown is where the fragrance most shines as a complete composition.

More often than not, “for women” currently translates to sweet, bright, and lacking any “Grrrrr” (think of a tiger growl). Creed Love in Black is so grrrrr.

Gentleman! Listen up! For those of you who have enjoyed fragrances like Iquitos, Richard James, Insense, or Homme de Rosine, or female-ascribed fragrances like Kingdom, Jicky, or Bandit, ignore those two little words on the box and experience yet another stunner from Creed.

What scent has recently encouraged you to go back for a second sniff?

Barneys, New York, the old downtown store: I walk through the beauty section, room after room, excited by all of the fragrance lines I’d never smelled before. The year is 1992 and I am a college freshman. My scents of choice at the moment are Ralph Lauren Safari for Men, Paloma Picasso Minotuare, Balenciaga pour Homme, and Calvin Klein Eternity for Men. Sometimes I mix it up with a little Kenzo, Gres, or Cacharel pour Homme. As my eyes dart from shelf to shelf I feel as if I have died and gone to scented heaven. What’s that in the tall blue box? What’s that in the square glass bottle? The walls swirl around me and the light shining through the glass windows causes me to squint. Am I really seeing all I think I see? Is this a dream? So many lines that are unfamiliar – what’s L’Occitane? And L’Artisan? I thought I knew the world of fragrance via GQ and Macy’s but this is overwhelming. What’s over there with all the grey caps and gold lettering? And then my eyes fully take in the velvet-padded table: one, two, three, four, ten, seventeen, twenty-four, no, even more glass bottles than I can count. Lined up like soldiers ready to salute, the fragrances call out to me with names like Jasmal, Royal English Lavender, and Epicea.

I pick up a bottle with the name Royal Delight. I spray. And the rest? Well, the rest is scented history…

Remember the first time you were intoduced to Creed, the first time you were so moved that you actually considered shelling out over a hundred bucks for a bottle of fragrance? At first sniff, the aroma of Creed’s Royal Delight was unlike anything else I had ever experienced. This was no mere Drakkar Noir or Giorgio Beverly Hills. This was certainly not Jazz, Claiborne, Sagamore, or Royal Copenhagen. No, this smelled nothing like either Liz Taylor’s Passion for Men or Alain Delon’s Iquitos. Royal Delight was at once heady and overwhelming, yet somehow immediately comforting and familiar.

Since my first encounter I have become a devotee of Creed fragrances, finding charm, sophistication, and yes, even whimsy in the glass bottles that read “DE PÉRE EN FILS DEPUIS 1760“. I can mark most of my adult career in the fragrance world by the Creed scent I was favoring at the time and so it is with utmost nostalgia and excitement that I share with you three of my favorite Creed fragrances, scents that are not exactly the latest trend, neither new releases nor the most commonly known, in the hopes of arousing curiosity about some of the fragrances you haven’t yet tried.

ROYAL DELIGHT

Creed writes: “The story of CREED Royal Delight is a story of romance and escape. A year after the death of the King of Spain, his widow, the Queen, commissioned a fragrance from CREED for the new man she would marry in secret, a royal guard. In those days, royal widows were not to remarry. Royal Delight is a leathery-floral fragrance the Queen’s new husband loved and wore. With this gift of scent, the couple did live happily ever after, although news of their marriage caused scandal and forced the Queen from her throne. Floral, leathery, fruity and rich. It is a soft-oriental or chypre-floral (made by placing the floral notes at center stage and minimizing the animal notes derived from the leather). Although originally made for men, Royal Delight is also worn by women with an appreciation for warm, rich and complex florals.” CreedBoutique.com

Royal Delight was in fact the first Creed fragrance I ever tested. Yes, 16 years ago I stood in a department store with a bottle in hand mulling over a purchase. Sadly, the near $200 pricetag was just too steep for this South Florida boy and so I’d have to be content to limit my enjoyment to those times when I could get my hands on a fragrance counter display bottle.

A few years ago while living in Osaka, I finally received (and finished) my first bottle and as I type this I’m on my second bottle. Royal Delight opens with a striking burst of mandarin citrus sweetened by a subtle jasmine note. The remainder of the fragrance is a classic Creed Millésime accord (if you know Creed’s fragrances, think Millésime Imperial) blended with vanilla, leather and amber. The result is a scent with many characters: bright & zesty, warm & rich. A true chameleon, Royal Delight is the day of the fox hunt. Fruit slices at breakfast, oiled leather boots and saddles on the horses, jasmine bushes in the garden, and the scent of vanilla cream emanating from the bake room as sweet, ambery tobacco pipes are lit upon your return. Though not listed in the notes, an Earl Grey tea note appears in the development of the aroma, likely a result of the citrus and amber accord.

A unisex scent suitable for all climates (though as a Millesime, it packs a bit of a punch at first spray thanks to the higher concentration of perfume oils), Royal Delight is a scent to try if large, opulent scents are to your liking. If you ever wanted a slightly gourmand citrus scent, you might be delighted by this Creed classic.

FLEURS DE BULGARIE

Creed writes: “Made for a queen who ascended the throne of England as a teen and ruled for decades. She wore the fragrance she commissioned from CREED throughout her illustrious reign — and named CREED an official supplier to the royal court. At once youthful and classically timeless, CREED Fleurs de Bulgarie is made with the essence of pure Bulgarian roses - the finest in the world – over a classic musk base. A regal essence fit for a queen, CREED Fleurs de Bulgarie is a blend of the best Bulgarian roses. A refined expression of elegance and timeless beauty, this scent is the perfect choice for the woman who expects nothing less than the best the world can offer.” CreedBoutique.com

I know, I was highly skeptical of this as well. First of all, rose scents are a dime a dozen and generally carry allusions to South Florida retirees wearing too much scent on hot summer days. That being said, I didn’t fall for this aroma until earlier this spring. Never a huge fan of rose (until encouraged to re-think my dispassion by L’Artisan’s now legendary Voleur de Roses,) the reference to Queen Victoria didn’t exactly entice me and so I always managed to overlook Fleurs de Bulgarie. It wasn’t until a male friend of mine, a prolific and jaw-droppingly talented artist, sang its praises that I even considered trying it. The first hurdle to jump was the fact that Creed has mistakenly continued to market the aroma as “Femme”. One of the least feminine of all rose fragrances that I have experienced (if we typically, albeit naively, ascribe to definitions of feminine as light, pretty, soft, and innocent), Fleurs de Bulgarie immediately recalls Czech and Speake’s No. 88 and Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet, both marketed as masculine scents.

The next hurdle is the opening of Fleurs de Bulgarie, a dead ringer for the scent of a beauty salon (yes, that’s right, a beauty salon. Think nail polish remover, perm products, hairspray, etc). The first time I tried this I knew the scent wasn’t for me…And just as I was ready to write it off, Fleurs de Bulgarie began to relax and morph.

A hint of animalic musk emerges against a rich background that strongly reminds me of a woody oudh and I even detect a little petrol (gasoline lovers rejoice!). The rose becomes a velvet veil wrapping these magical basenotes and the entire fragrance becomes one of Creed’s most unique creations. Like a glass of Pinot Noir, Fleurs de Bulgarie is truly a melange of aromas that constantly develops. It’s during the drydown, 30-45 minutes after initial application, that the composition truly relaxes and the aroma changes yet again to remind me of a Middle Eastern rose incense a friend recently sent me – slightly sweet, slightly smoky and completely addictive.

Not for the faint of heart, er, nose, this is otherworldly, exotic, and regal…and HUGE! This is neither young nor delicate, and anything but your typical rose aroma.

VETIVER

Creed writes: “An ideal holiday selection, CREED Vetiver was worn by the veteran actor who won Hollywood’s highest award for his beloved film portrayal of Santa Claus. CREED Vetiver also began CREED’s relationship with one of America’s leading families, a political dynasty now known worldwide for its energy, vigor — and impeccable style. CREED Vetiver appeared in the U.S. when a new generation of Americans returning home from World War II showed the nation a continental style it had not seen before. CREED’s Vetiver found favor with the driven, idealistic young American men entering public service in the booming post-war years. Like those leaders, the fragrance was destined for greatness. CREED creates this extraordinary blend using fragrant oil from the roots of exotic vetiver grass, which forms a fragrant base with cedarwood and ambergris. A middle note of ginger is topped by citrus and bergamot for a blend that recalls America’s leaders in a golden era.” CreedBoutique.com

I’ll begin by stating how much I dislike vetiver. I have tried and tried and tried and the only time I ever do like it is when I don’t actually smell the bitter harshness that so many die-hard vetiver lovers hold in such high esteem. And so it was a huge surprise when I smelled Vetiver, not Original Vetiver, but just simply “Vetiver” and fell immediately in love…and fell hard.

Vetiver opens with a burst of soapy citrus tempered by ginger. Could it be lemon? The composition quickly moves to an aromatic but extremely subtle blend of cedar, sandalwood and vetiver, and that is really the entire story. Whereas Royal Delight is opulent and Fleurs de Bulgarie is exotic, Vetiver is straightforward, clean, and timeless. Best of all, I don’t detect vetiver.

Ok, so I realize the irony of loving an eponymously named fragrance that doesn’t smell like its namesake, but there is something both highly addictive and extremely comforting about Creed’s Vetiver; I’ve tried other of the Creed eaux des toilette and not been nearly as moved. Moreover, the longevity is impressive and the scent settles to give that “just-washed-skin-with-sicilian-lemons-and-sandalwood-oil” feel. I think that’s what really does it for me – the echo of sandalwood.

If you expected something far more old school from Creed’s other vetiver-named fragrance, Original Vetiver (oddly enough, released years after Vetiver), or if you’re a citrus or sandalwood lover, give this a shpritz the next time you pass a Creed counter – I think you’ll be impressed by both the sparkle and simplicity of Creed Vetiver.

So if you’re looking for something new, albeit not necessarily a new release, look no further than the 250 year tradition of Creed fragrances. In the coming months I’ll take a look at some of my other more obscure favorites like Erolfa, Angelique Encens and Royal Water. All fragrances above can be purchased online at ParfumsRaffy.com, Nieman Marcus, select Saks stores and CreedBoutique.com.

Pros: Seems to be widely available online at greatly discounted prices; based on fragrance discussion boards and websites seems to be easy to love; offers a fresh, clean, just-out-of-the-shower kind of feeling without resorting to smelling like hotel soap.

Cons: Well, I saw this thread over at Basenotes and did feel a little anxious.

Notes: Aromatic, Sensual and Woody notes, Canopy Greens accord, Sunstruck Resin, Basil, Cardamom, White Patchouli, Red Cedar and Wacapou wood. Basenotes

Reminds me of: Balmain Vent Vert, Weil Bambou, Monsieur 2 de Givenchy (aka Greenergy); L’Artisan Fleur de Liane, Hermes Jardin apres la Mousson, Creed Acqua Fiorentina, Geir by Geir Ness.

Designer’s Description: “Powerful. masculine. sexy. truth calvin klein embodies the masculine sexiness reflected by nature and the warmth of the skin. the signature structure of the scent is a core of watery greens accented by aromatic basil and fresh caradamom to create a strong seductive woodiness. a canopy of green accord radiates natural freshness through the fragrance. sunstruck notes glow throughout to recreate nature’s touch. white patchouli, red cedar and wacapou enhance the masculine woods to emulate a raw sensuality.” CalvinKlein.com

Number of times tested: Numerous wearings on whole body.

Number of sprays applied for this review:  Three of four sprays to the back of hands and chest.

Fragrance Strength: Eau de Toilette

Development (Linear / Average / Complex): Truth remains linear throughout its development.

Longevity (Short / Average / Long-lasting): 4-5 hrs on my skin.

Sillage (A Little / Average / A Lot): I think this one stays subtle enough that it would be acceptable for an office setting.

Where Can I Buy It? A 3.4 oz EDT spray (tester) can be found for as low as $25 US via Google Shopping or Ebay.

The Bottom Line: Happy 10th anniversary my fine, comforting friend! I’ve worn Truth since its launch in 2002 and haven’t been without a bottle since. One of my hands-down, all-time favorite scents, I’ve wrestled with the women’s version throughout the years: I finally decided I disliked the original but loved both Truth Lush and Truth Sensual Bedtime fragrances. Recently, I realized that my deep attraction to both L’Artisan Fleur de Liane and Hermes’ ill-fated Jardin apres la Mousson is due to the similarities they share with Truth for Men.

This review is a loooooong time in the making and funnily enough came about because while looking for something to decant my new Eau d’Ikar into while at a friend’s apartment in Helsinki, a sample vial of Truth for Men was discovered. When said friend went to the sink to empty the vial, announcing “I’ll just empty my old sample spray of Truth for Men,” I screamed out “NOOOOOO!” As if in a slow-mo scene from a war film, I turned and ran to the kitchen, hoping desperately to save the Truth. It has traveled with me from Helsinki to Tokyo and I now sit in Baltimore enjoying the summery scent on a chilly December morning. Part of me feels that I should have saved it for a warmer day when I usually most enjoy green aromas but the comfort factor was just too strong.

So, what does it actually smell like? Just look at that image above! It pretty much says it all. Give him a plum and place him in a forest and the image is perfectly completed. LOL. What is it with me and plums? Maybe it’s the “canopy greens” accord that reminds me of biting into a juicy, tart greengage plum (hence my reference to Creed’s beautiful Acqua Fiorentina). As for the other notes in the pyramid, I just don’t get them. And this is the most interesting part of Truth for Men.

I do love patchouli and constantly search for the often bitter, earthy notes in Truth for Men but to no avail. Basil? Not in the sense of cooking spices but maybe it adds to the green freshness. Cardamom? No lemony seeds that I can detect, although perhaps this helps with the fragrance’s brightness. Cedar? I don’t detect it and in no way view Truth as a woody fragrance. Wacapou wood? I don’t even know what that is, but Ingeborg Waldinger writes in her article, “The Scent of Wood and its Effects“:

Take, for example, the highly complex “Swiss Mountain Forest” essence. “This is a reconstitution of the environmental fragrance that one finds in a mountain forest made up of larch and stone pine trees, such as in Switzerland’s Engadine Valley, on a sunny October afternoon,” explains Kaiser. In nature, the scent is produced when the sun warms the tree resin and the latter releases musky aromas. “Swiss Mountain Forest” lends an ideal warm aroma to men’s fragrances. A similar result has been achieved with Givaudan’s synthetic base fragrance “Georgywood”: Thanks to this scent, Kaiser was able to replicate the odor of tropical wacapou wood from French Guiana.

Hmmm, still doesn’t help too much but “Swiss Mountain forest” is a great way to describe Truth. In fact, once I developed an image in my mind of mountain forest I immediately realized that Truth for Men also recalls the dewy greens of Geir Ness’s eponymous men’s fragrance.

What does this all add up to? Well, the scent is not foody, woody, citrusy, fruity, spicy, leathery, smoky or floral. “Wet green” is the best way to describe it. Those in love with fragrances like Balmain’s Vent Vert or even Chanel #19 EDT would do well to give Truth for Men a try. It’s an unlikely comparison to such illustrious creations, I know, but truthfully, this is easily a unisex aroma, highly affordable and very easy to wear.

What are some of your favorite green aromas?