Santrauka: Marle neria į jo bedugnės mėginių maišą ir tiria tris mėginius iš Australijos Fleurage, Kvepalai Atelier – Mabon, Imp ir Dandy "Bohemos. Palikite komentarą Jūsų galimybę gauti nemokamus kvepalų mėginius.
Apie dėl kvepalų: I’ve been following the development of perfumer Emma Leah’s work for the past few years now and am delighted to finally have the opportunity to write about her creations. Together with Fleurage business partner Robert Luxford, Emma had the sense that “The great art of perfumery was misssing something. Amongst all of the beautiful packaging and mass marketing the modern perfume buying experience was bereft of any attention to personal needs. There was nowhere to go to find genuine guidance and information about this very personal, intimate product. Fragrance itself had changed and allergies were creating the opposite to the desired effect. Perfume had lost its sensuality.” Their response was to create one of Australia’s only all-natural perfume ateliers that offer a range of scented products from bespoke perfumes to bath and body products. Visit them online at http://www.fleurage-natural-perfume.com.au.
*A few notes about Fleurage perfumes: Sometimes timing is everything when sampling perfume and I unfortunately received Emma’s samples during Finnish springtime, which of course is actually Australia’s autumn. I had been pining for warmer weather so that I could finally get back to wearing my green, citrus and marine fragrances when first testing Mabon, Imp and Dandy and so the autumnal character that Emma ascribes to at least Mabon just felt all wrong to me. Now that I’ve had a few months to play with these fragrances, and now that I’ve had my fill of Northern Hemisphere spring and summer, I’m already predicting that Mabon (along with Imp and Dandy) will become a passion leading to strict rationing of my generous samples. Although described as “a perfume for men”, I think all three could easily be unisex. And although natural perfumes, the aesthetic is anything but typical. At times the quality of the ingredients and the mercurial nature of the compositions remind me that these are not mass-market, department store fragrances…but neither are they the work of a novice natural perfumer…there’s a playful mystery at work in Emma’s compositions, and you can add me to her growing list of adoring fans.
Dizainerio Aprašymas: Sharp spices are enveloped in rich warm woods and leather then relax into the deeper smokey resins and earth notes, a perfume for men. An autumnal chord of woods, earth and spices. Inspired by the seasonal harvest festival when the earth begins to rest and we gather the rewards of a fruitful spring and summer.
Pažymi,: Bazė: Pačiulių, Mirra, Vetiverijos; Middle: Kardamonas, Bay leaf, Mimoza; Top: Allspice, Pipirai
Man primena: Very definitely could fit into the Comme des Garcons line of fragrances…all of that spice creates reference to the original CDG fragrance but Mabon is smoother, softer and sweeter.
Bottom Line: Mabon is a fascinating composition that reveals various facets throughout its development. At times medicinal, at other times smoky, Mabon opens as an homage to the classic bay rum colognes of men’s fragrance history. At the top of the composition I get a tangy allspice and bay, and a surprisingly subtle pepper (ačiū Dievui…pepper along with cumin is my most dreaded fragrance note). The base of Mabon is striking with its glimmers of incense-like patchouli and myrrh. Hmmm, now that I think about it, Emma seems to have married two different fragrance archetypes – yesteryear’s bay rum cologne with today’s incense accord. The drydown is perhaps the most striking aspect of Mabon and where I’m most overwhelmed by its intriguing beauty: The basenotes sweeten and I keep checking the list of notes for sandalwood, vanilla and benzoin but to no avail…where is this sweetness coming from? Could it be the myrrh and patchouli alone doing this? Whereas CDG goes to celery seed and pepper on my skin, Mabon goes to Spanish cathedral. Simply fascinating.
Dizainerio Aprašymas: A burst of lemon citrus and tangy pepper opens almost immediately to the heart of green herbs, woods and more citrus – a perfume for men. A green pepper chord around a heart of woods. The mischievous little boy inside all men is the Imp — daring them to indulge their playful side. Deliciously wicked with the face of an angel.
Pažymi,: Bazė: May Chang, Hyssop, Opoponax; Middle: Ylang ylang, Bergamočių, Neroli; Top: Pipirai, Lemongrass
Man primena: I can honestly say that I’ve never experienced anything quite like Imp. Taip, a number of familiar notes have been used but the overall effect is startlingly unfamiliar!
Bottom Line: “What is THIS?” my nose and brain demand. So many favorites here – bergamočių, green pepper, neroli, opoponax…Hmmm. Iš pradžių apuostyti, Imp feels slightly, gerai, aromatherapeutic, but lurking behind those topnotes there is an intriguing albeit fleeting sweetness, an accord that recalls Caron’s classic Narcisse Noir thanks to the neroli and bergamot. I can see how the name and aroma actually go together here; with May Chang offering a citrusy punch and hyssop delivering an almost minty edge, Imp is bright, tangy and playful, but by no means clean, light or simple. Kaip kvapas atpalaiduoja, I’m reminded of Gobin Daude’s Biche dans L’Absinthe arba Yves Rocher’s Aztek, and these are strange references…why am I suddenly smelling wormwood absinthe at the drydown?
Dizainerio Aprašymas: Sweet metallic powder opens which then develops subtly into a rich herbal floral and settles finally into a warm woody animalic note. Inspired the stylish gentleman of an age past. Velvet and brocade suits and lace trim shirts — flamboyant, dapper and individual.
Pažymi,: Bazė: Santalas, Smilkalas, Labdanum, Oakmoss; Middle: Tuberoza, Nutmeg, Jasmine Sambac; Top: Bergamočių. French Lavender
Man primena: Vėl, other than a jasmine or tuberose attar, there is really nothing to which I can compare this jasmine/tuberose/sandalwood blend.
Bottom Line: Because I’m obsessed with jasmine and have been recently converted to a tuberose-lover, Dandy could have been made specifically for me in mind. I’ve also recently become intrigued with lavender after years of strong repulsion and have always loved sandalwood and labdanum…anything sweet, woody and resinous. Taigi man, Dandy is pretty much perfect. The most natural smelling of the three, likely due to the overall vision of the fragrance and the ingredients, Dandy is a sweet, unisex floral that is actually very “gana” and a white floral lover’s dream. Whereas in Mabon, the drydown is the star, Dandy is all about its topnote accord. Gone are the fecal characteristics of the jasmine; gone are the waxy, powdery tones of the tuberose; and gone are the often meaty edges of lavender. These three notes are blended beautifully and emphasize everything I love about them. The other notes in the composition undoubtedly contribute to its overall success, but they by no means take the stage in the same way those topnotes do. If Mabon is a spicy, smoky chameleon and Imp is a green mystery, then Dandy is a familiar fop with a blossom in his vest.