Oppsummering: En sjokkerende bra, 97.5% Naturlig (Botaniske / Natural Animal Essenser), unisex parfyme fra legendariske salver Dawn Spencer Hurwitz som klarer å produsere en krydret lær effekt ulikt noe annet jeg noensinne har luktet før. Vinn en deluxe prøve ved å forlate en kommentar.
Pros: Til tross for en kompleks liste over notater, the overall composition is an easy to wear, gender-neutral chypre that avoids the muddy feeling so often encountered in natural perfumes; has an unusual retro vibe without feeling like Grandpa’s aftershave.
Cons: Limited availability and a steep price tag thanks to the quality of the materials chosen by Dawn; don’t let the female moniker distract you, herrer – Pandora is butcher than most recent men’s mainstream releases.
Merknader: “Top notes: Aldehyde/Aldehydic, Bergamott, Cassis Bud, Davana, Green Peppercorn, Ozone, Pink Peppercorn, Ruby Red Fruits (botanical accord), Spice Notes, Violet Leaf Absolute. Midt-notater: Cabreuva Wood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Green Tea Absolute, Juhi Jasmine Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute, Orris Root, Yerba Mate Absolute. Base notes: Ambergris Tincture, Australian Sandalwood, Cyperus, Fossilized Amber, Green Oakmoss, Mousse de Saxe no.1 (botanical accord), Muhuhu, Patchouli co2, Tonka Bean Absolute, Vanilla Absolute, Vetiver co2.” DSHPerfumes.com
Minner meg om: I can’t think of a single, recent fragrance that even comes close to Pandora.
Designer beskrivelse: "Det, “Beautiful Evil”, is a quote from the story of Pandora as told by the Greek, Hesiod. She is the all gifted, all giving one, a singular woman and synonymous with Eve in many respects. It is she who opens humankind to the knowledge of good and evil and ultimately breaks the utopian ideal. With Pandora, mankind has plagues but also knowledge and maturity. She opens the door to truth and hope. What began as an all-botanical design for a project changed direction with the addition of a subtle synthetic influence. It made all of the difference. This is also a perfume that also utilizes some new and exotic botanical materials…in Pandora, the ancient meets the 21 century." DSHPerfumes.com
Antall ganger testet: Twice from a sample sent to me by DSH.
Antall spray søkt om denne gjennomgangen: To på baksiden av hånden.
Fragrance Strength: EDP
Utvikling: (Lineær / Gjennomsnittlig / Complex): Although I can’t really pinpoint individual notes, both times I tested Pandora I felt as if it became both woodier and sweeter as it developed; though the fragrance keeps a similar chypre character throughout the wearing, various facets of the composition sparkle as the scent develops; most interesting is the crystalline, watery airiness that seems to float above the darker basenotes.
Longevity: (Kort / Gjennomsnittlig / Langvarig): Om 3-4 timer.
Wake: (A Little / Gjennomsnittlig / A Lot): After two sprays to one hand, I was surprised by how the scent seemed to keep me company throughout two hours of morning chores.
Hvor kan jeg kjøpe det? Fra $4 US to $220 US depending on size and concentration at DSHPerfumes.com.
The Bottom Line: Som vanlig, I’ll start by admitting my bias for mainstream synthetics and my general disdain for naturals. If any perfumer today causes me to question this bias, it is Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. As masterful with naturals as she is with synthetics and oils, the woman is a hands down American genius of perfumery producing such an incredible range of aromas that everyone could surely find something to fall in love with. I have and wear many of her scents but for some reason I do believe this to be my very first DSH review. Some of my favorites include: L’Eau d’Iris (watery iris that manages to be neither too sweet nor too doughy), Tuberose (the only tuberose scent I can actually wear), Celadon (a divine green aroma), Formula X (akin to a skin musk and a staple in my collection), Cafe Noir (rivals Ava Luxe’s own coffee scent), Parfum de Luxe (another retro classic), and Le Roi Soleil (a neroli fragrance inspired by Louis XIV) to name but a few.
With Pandora, I avoided all information about the scent so that I could blindly dive into the experience without any preconceived expectations. What I found first brought me to question if indeed Pandora was a natural (or nearly-natural). Next I wondered for what gender it was intended, if intended for a specific gender at all. Endelig, I couldn’t decide just what exactly I was smelling. Why did it smell both fresh and sparkling yet at the same time mossy and woody and even more shockingly, læraktig? I kept waiting for harsh “essential oil” tones and the typical muddiness that often defines naturals but to no avail. “What IS this?” I wondered as I immediately decided that quite simply, I liked it!
When I finally saw the list of notes, I sighed deeply – so many things I stay away from: vetiver, peppercorn, aldehyder, oakmoss, violet leaf and rose are generally kiss-of-death notes for me. Had I seen these, I likely would have entered the sniffing with a somewhat negative perspective. I tillegg, the name immediately conjured images of 1940′s and 50′s classics, the likes of which have been reproduced by the Irma Shorell/Long Lost Perfumes company and despite my many open-minded attempts, I just can’t manage to enjoy wearing. Endelig, the naturals aspect had me hesitant depsite my recent success with the Brave New Scents natural perfumes project written about her og her.
Pandora could easily have been a mid-80′s men’s scent, somewhere between Oscar pour Lui by de la Renta (spicy woods) and Drakkar Noir (modern fougere). Imidlertid, Pandora also recalls Bandit by Piguet (leather chypre), Jolie Madame by Balmain (violet chypre) and Sikkim by Lancome (spicy chypre). That’s not to say that Pandora actually smells like any of these. As I noted, one of the supreme joys of Pandora is how unlike anything else on today’s market it actually is. But like a few of her contemporaries, namely Mona di Orio and Linda Pilkington, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz manages at times to create fragrances that at once feel both modern and antique; there’s a familiarity accompanied by a surprising newness in many of these perfumers’ creations. Enda viktigere, that the synthetic ingredients should be only 2.5% of aldehydes and ozone notes, giving the overall aroma an unexpected lift, is even more cause to celebrate Dawn’s abilities.
If Pandora were a color, I’d say it was an inky, deep green chartreuse. Perfect for cooler weather, the fragrance mostly smells of mossy woods with almost no hint of florals or gourmand notes…safely letting it rest in unisex territory. In that respect, and as a chypre, it couldn’t be further from today’s sweet, foody and fruity trends. If Pandora is any indication of where Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is heading in terms of her current fragrant curiosities, perhaps she has indeed opened a Pandora’s box of possibilities?
What’s your favorite DSH aroma?